MikeSharp01

I have a festool one I use for all fine carpentry, just been doing a worktop. O have the festool rails as well these connect together so I can get to about 3.6 meters. They also have under clamps that allow you to clamp the ends. I have to say that getting them dead staight does require another straight edge during set up as although they are well made and I keep mine in a purpose made box they are about 250 wide and 1.4M long so you can be mm out if you are a fraction out of square at the join.

Take care with sunlight issues. While people are not entitled to a view they are entitled to light and, this is the curious bit, the planners are not obliged to take this right into account. IIRC once someone has lived somewhere for more than 15 years (this could be wrong) they earn the right to light and you, as the developer, need to either not infringe it or buy it out! Again IIRC the right to light only extends to light coming into buildings via windows so is not about their veg patch. As @Mr Puntersays it is a bit subjective but a ful sun survey will show you the problem, if one exists.

Interesting. Three thoughts, biggish picture so maybe not understanding the detail, 1. is there any connection with the external temperature gradients. I wonder if the Optimum start function is just trying to get ahead of the external temperature curve somehow. 2. Once all the rooms cease searching does it continue? This may be linked to 1 above a little because if the external temperature is equal to internal and internal is at the set point and it still runs there is a bigger problem - I suspect not. 3. Are there any odd interactions between the ground floor temperature and the first floor because heat rises and, if you have one, is getting recirculated cooler air via the MVHR tending to average out things albeit this effect will be quite small.

Benchmarks DB is HERE

If you can find an OS marker you can see from the plot you could shoot at it with a total station. Otherwise get a GPS app for your mobile phone and use that.

To what are you referring?

Have you tried going cold turkey? (Not this evening as an intimate supper is mandated for valentines day.)

Welcome to THE forum for self builders and people of like minds.

It does not show from here it must be the way your trousers hang. BH boom.

Just call it 'site preparation' and I don't think they can touch you - you have not started you are just getting ready to start.

We have this and ours is 300mm FJI joist studs on top of two parallel sole plates of 75mm x 50 and 150 x 50 with 50mm x 75mm thick PU infill in the gap. Every so often the stud is fixed, via the web, to the concrete with a strong tie angle bracket in the PU trough which is fettled around the bracket. All on top of a DPC. PS this is as our SE detailed.

Working drawings are down to me his remitt ends at BC drawings. I will post a section drawing when I get home from site - remind me if nothing here by tomorrow am. I don't think the architect was aware of the potential issue. I believe that Condensation can form between layers, assuming dew point is reached, unless thermal contact is perfect so there is no air between them. As I understand it the external surface of the gutter is at air temperature while the surface below it is at envelope surface temperature and so dew point is possibly achievable I think.

We have no experience but we are also doing this on our build. Although we have architects detail for it I keep revisiting the design mainly because of concern about condensation on the underside of the Ali section and although I can waterproof that I am not convinced this won't just move the condensation one layer in and venilating below the gutter is my thinking at the moment.

Sorry for delay folks it's amazing how hard this happening to a friend who is younger than you hits you. Thanks @JSHarris that looks simple enough but they enjoy(ed) catch up TV so wanted something like that if I can get it. @Barney12 Thanks also I descover that a friend has the harmony hub and I am going over there on Thursday to have a play with it. Wonder if I could get a pi to do this and allow all friends and family to control it remotely?

We tried a now tv stick with an 8 button remote but no joy they struggle to do it with you prompting them. @Declan52 I will need to get them a new TV theirs is 3 years old and pretty basic. You can talk to our Samsung but it's pretty clunky. I will take a wander around John Lewis and see what I can find to see if directly talking to the TV is the answer.

We have had a somewhat tragic event with a single friend of ours getting what looks like early onset dementia, Consultants appointment in next couple of days. We have been up working with them, and their immediate family, to sort things but one area maybe has a solution but I cannot immediately see it. Essentially they cannot control their TV anymore - it all works fine and the remote is perfectly normal but the buttons seem not to mean anything to them any longer, 'which button do I press to watch' so I thought it must be possible to remotely control a TV via their internet connection for them or install an ALEXA like system so they can just talk to it to make things happen. I have seen a harmony hub which might do it but I was wondering if there was another way or any experience out there. It would be good if we could control their heating and monitor electricity usage etc, all of which I could do but need a way forward for the TV and we can probably hang the rest of it onto that. Any thoughts?

Have you had a scope on the hdmi signals to see what signal loss there is? HDMI is not a fool proof standard and it was developed to cope with 1080p over a max practical distance of 50ft IIRC. As the demands of 4k and 16k grow on us it won't cope over even that distance so I would build a space behind / beside the TV to put the boxes and run a fibre cable to your router it is unlikely that terrestrial broadcast will get much beyond 4k in the medium term satellite will and if you have a fast enough broadband you might get beyond 4k.

Welcome to THE forum for self builders. Sounds interesting, budget should be OK for a modest property as long as you can get plot with services for under £200k leaving you with £250k for build and at £1500 /m2 you should get 150 m2 property with some contingency.

I guess getting the frame up and watertight would be good.

Not much but a slightly bigger one will run cooler as it won't be working so hard. As Dave says it won't be smooth but it will run just fine.

Thanks chaps - body swerve time me thinks. So as a starting point, and in an ideal world, we need to be looking for: inverter controlled & reversable. For us 5Kw should be stacks.

Anyone got any experiance of the Fairland Orilux 5.2kW Air Source Heat pump. Looks like a good deal on ebay at £550 so might invest if no adverse comments although it has no cooling option according to blurb.

welcome to THE forum, sounds like a long(ish) gestation but you seem now to be 'on the road' [Although perhaps off the rails], good luck.

Is the system 2.5 years old or did they move into the house 2.5 years ago with an existing system, Sorry of I missed an answer to this question.

How frustrating. Just a couple of thoughts - hire a photo spectrometer and pop it onto the colour you like (you can get this done free at some DIY stores if you have a sample as they can scan it), push the trigger and you can get all the colour info you need plus a load of other info you don't. Alternative would be to buy a stack of tinted glasses (Rose tint won't do it for green) which make all the green spectrum look grey and offer them to visitors, wear them constantly yourself of course. There will be a solution that does not involve a new window.