Nickfromwales

Busted. ??

Pike in the mid 20's. I'll stay here ?

A break tank, as @PeterW rightly says, disconnects you from the incoming mains supply, hence the name 'break tank'. The local water authority will prosecute anyone who creates a deficit on the water network e.g. drawing water in excess of the natural supply flow rate. In Wales the max you can pump at is 11.5-12 litres per minute, anything over that and your in the ?. They can be approached and have to supply a minimum flow rate & static pressure but good luck enforcing that. It's with that annoyance that folk make their own system with what's available. The Grunfos Home Booster linked above is a very good unit which I would recommend as a Plug n Play option, but I'd add a heafty accumulator to compliment it if it were me. It states a 180 litre capacity with the option to double it, but I think I'd go for a 3-500 litre accumulator as you'll only get 60% of the vessel capacity in actual stored water ( the rest of the volume is pressurised air or gas which is compressed to give back pressure as a means of storing energy ). Accumulators will only give the stored volume and will then be exhausted, at which point your water pressure & flow rate will return to whatever comes in from the street.....( you can only get a pint out of a pint pot ). To combat that Achilles heel you simply design the system so the stored volume is rarely / never depleted. Ill give Grunfoss a ring and find out what makes that unit tick, but I'm pretty sure that fitting an accumulator downstream will massively improve its performance, longevity, and the systems ability to deliver high flow rates for longer durations. I am interested in whether it pumps from an open break tank, or if it has a regulated pump which draws off the mains and pumps into an inbuilt, sealed accumulator. @readiescards , what has made you say you need to supplement your cold mains ?

Put a break tank in the garage and pump into an accumulator / s. No need whatsoever for a tank in the attic unless it's too late to get a pipe in between the house and garage? Just done one exactly like this.

Hi and welcome aboard. Sounds like a great place you've got there. . Maybe I'll buy a new rod, gits nicked my last one from the shed. ?

'Tis good ?

Isn't that the bit that the Doc from Back To The Future puts the fuel into the Delorian ? ??? Could be worth more as abstract art maybe. Well worth the wait

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EBT for my jobs, the others are more marine / exterior specific hence their prices.

£5.50 per tube to the door Ebay to the rescue

Don't use gripfill. Use sikaflex. Gripfill skins over too quickly, and requires lateral movement when using as a grab adhesive to 'break' the two beads into each other ( never just apply it to one surface ). Fwiw I haven't bought a tube of GF for as long as I can remember. Sikaflex is just so much better and doesn't dry 'brittle' like GF does. I personally can't stand the stuff and only use Pink-grip when I need to bond stuff if I ever need zero movement, as above I bond both surfaces and agitate with a spreader / similar seconds before mating the two surfaces. One example of where I used it was that wall hung WC where I framed the stud wall with 100x50mm box steel and I bonded the steel to the wood. After sliding the two against each other, post application of PG, it was claimped and left to cure. I cant see anywhere now where you should be using a solvent product such as GF or PG so please ditch that and switch to Sikaflex ?. Also using SF for the tile fixing onto the ply would be better than silicone, but silicone will suffice. Don't even consider using flexible tile adhesive on the boxing / framing as it will last about a week.

You 100% deffo need that additional fillet to secure it along the length. Fwiw, I'd do it in ply not PB.

There are different rules for screw spacings . If your just skimming then 300mm would be fine, but when your tiling and there is a certain kg/p/m2 loading then you need much more purchase. I'd go no less than 120mm centres. Stud centres for kitchens & bathrooms must be at no less than 400mm, NOT the 600mm permissible for 'other' rooms. Screws are so cheap there really is no excuse not to go for more, even if that's above the 'standard'.

If you want a middle ground and the floors have been glued and screwed, not nailed, then just use Ditra mat . Thinner than ply and completely decouples the tiles from the substrate. Edit to add: no experience of the above mentioned sorry. FYI, I'd NEVER risk tiling onto wooden flooring of any kind without a 'movement mitigation' strategy.

An uvc can be used, but a buffer will also be required. Pointless fitting two cylinders when one will do. Also, a TS will give continuous DHW where an uvc will eventually run cold. Feel free to ask if / when required .

( 20 mins the way I drive ).

Bridgend is only 20 mins up the M4. I'm J45 .

Short term? ....,......... Just use a redundant UFH manifold port ( obviously you'll have to buy a manifold ) or put the UFH and TR in series for now off the unit you bought .

That's the stop gap iirc, long term you'll be off the manifold

Bingo. Whack it on the towel rad and select the temp to suit your marital status

@Onoff What's the temp range of that pump / blender you picked up off eBay? Btw, using a naff old dangerous towel rail as an example of how the new bathroom will be is a bit daft tbh . The downstairs towel rad will be as hot as you design it to be, so you just engineer the solution around the remit and then you'll get the desired result. Simples. As a reality check, get a towel and hang it on a coat hanger. Put that in a heated room and watch it dry all by itself.

Go for a towel rad, as a regular rad will just overheat the room imho. Your missus will be suitably impressed with the UFH, to a point where you can ask "cream or custard for your humble pie, dear?" .

You've got me thinking now about how much easier a steel frame would be for my up coming manshed. Great thread, I'm watching closely. ?

It's also down to the type of boiler which is there. If it's not suitable for direct connection you may need to integrate a buffer to make it so. . Breaking out and removing the slab isn't that much grief, just labour and muck-away intensive, but the resulting product may not be any more efficient unless you address the fabric heat loss ( draughty / Swiss-cheese esque build ) but if not too bothered then it's reasonably easy to achieve with a few quid chucked at it. Heat loss calc is essential as the radiators may be able to produce more heat than the UFH for each given room / space ( so beware of that ).

B and Q trade point had similar for £40 which I snapped up. It's still going strong and that's mixing tile adhesive in full bag to bag-and-a-half quantities which isn't easy going. I may buy that one if the B and Q one isn't available any more, just to have a second 'clean' machine for plaster only. +1, good find. .