Nickfromwales

Frost stat on the oil boiler. Some kick in at 7oC and others at ~10oC. Is it an external boiler?

So if you blow into that does air come out of all the tappings? Stick your hand over the cold tapping and blow into the hot. If there's back pressure you know there is a coil. i genuinely don't know why they'd define those two tappings other than if they are a coil in / out. ?

Hot and cold in/ out ? I'm a bit stuck with that, is that a coil? Otherwise how is it defined? Each tapping should be installer definable.

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If you have a cold mains fed filling loop, then it has the potential to be left open by mistake / misadventure and then it is subject to that max static pressure. As I have never fitted an ashp, I don't know if these are dumb units which rely on a pressurisation kit to be retro fitted elsewhere accordingly, ( fill loop, pressure gauge, PRV and EV ). If the ashp is a dumb unit then you'll need to fit these additional components just to cover the known criteria ( water expands when it's gets heated / ev's fail and then cylinders pop if there's no PRV and so on ). Even without the G3 requirement ( which is iirc any volume of stored + pressurised ( sealed / unvented ) heated water of 15litres or more ) you'd need these components to comply with the basic physics and safety side. As per my last, I firmly believe your going to need G3 as your at or above 15 litres The filling loop left open / partially closed issue can be easily removed as your not supposed to leave the loop connected after filling up. The flexi hose on the filling loop has 'wing nut' like nuts at each end and rubber seals so it can be fitted and removed by hand ( tool free ) so it's not supposed to be there anyway. Discipline is your friend there. A failed immersion stat is the only thing here that's going to cause this cylinder to overheat and breach the working value of expansion of the EV so, as most have an operational stat + a manually resettable overheat stat that is a rare occurrence. Regardless of how slim the chance of both of those failing is, you must still, under G3, allow for that eventuality. That's why the regs exist. Example of the kits ( ready to go off the shelf ) Before I advise on the connections, does the cylinder have any coils or is it all one unified body of water. ?

@TerryE 's idea ( if I've got the right end of the stick ) is to store heat in the slab, with heat pulsed in from low tariff events from each 24 hr period of E10. That'll be achievable with a decent inline tubular heater, timed accordingly and governed by thermostatic control. So, heating sorted. Tiny outlay, and simpler than falling down when your pissed . For dhw, it seems the sunamp would suit you best. Maybe spend a few quid on the bigger unit ( 10kw? ) and then, again, you can pulse E10 in accordingly. Use the DIY Pv array to offset your vampire / parasitic loads in the daytime. After you break even on the outlay for the Pv you can then use the additional saved £££'s to start repaying for the sunamp. The most complicated part of that setup will be the button on your shower

Just buy a nice shower !!! You may get people from the caravan park sneaking in Sorry !

Isnt that a bit 'miserly' ? ( apologies for my subtlety ). After all the effort of making a low energy, comfortable home that's cheap to run, I'd like to decide how long I 'get' to shower. Sometimes I'll just let red hot water run over my shoulders for 10 mins or so after scrubbing the day away, and if the water ran out during that I'd flip. Can 20p worth of hot water really break a budget? If it came from excess Pv then......?

The cost of the heating system will be the least of your worries

Push button showers? Thermostatic mixers or electric ? Next thing, with E10, iirc, your not restricted to nighttime heating only as there are multiple low rate events per 24hrs

What exactly is this? Balustrade or balcony / other.

You'll see the edges through the glass. Can it be viewed from the left of your drawing? Id use a chrome / stainless U channel to take the return against the glass.

And if the shit hits the fan use this stuff.

Can't you create a metal upstand in front of the glass and bond the PB to that so its isolated from movement. Allow 3-4mm gap and job done. .

It's not that you didn't have enough, you just can't undo it even a 1/4 turn without having to re-ptfe and start again . Dont go nuts with the ptfe vs the last lot or you'll end up not getting any to go in.

Any lube will do tbh. As above, silicone grease does a top job too and I'll use that myself if I've run out of / can't find my Rocol. .

On my retrofits ( another 3 in the bag this week ) I always dab as normal but then go around the foot and head with high expansion foam, and loads of it. The head so convection heat travel is arrested, and the foot to help with the previous but to also beef the boards up a bit for skirting / knock-ability.

Adjust the PRedV with the water flowing. . Turn a tap on very slowly ( flowing slowly ) and then the pressure will stay up and you'll be able to adjust in real time. Turn the tap off after each adjustment to then get the set static pressure. Adjust accordingly, repeating as necessary. Pressure on the street will rise and fall with neighbourhood occupancy so you'll see less morning and late afternoon / evening than say 10:30 or 22:30.

I feel like i don't know you anymore ?

Aye. Not as grainy as the white iirc. Just in case you've overlooked it, I use Rocol. Just in case.

I never use setting compounds. With the possibility of having to go back and re-jig things ( ) then you deffo don't want a setting compound. Just saying .

The Rocol does say it's for gas, but I've used it for everything for 15+ years and don't use anything else ( other than SlikTite for oil ). Loosen everything compression and use this throughout. Edit to add : Hemp is used for coarse threads where a gap filling medium is required.

This stuff is the dogs. Doesn't go hard like boss white does Most P merchants stock it.

The squeaking is brass on brass where you haven't lubricated the metal parts with jointing compound. . Have I taught you nothing? Strip it down, apply a bit of compound to the mdpe pipe where the olive is now captive, a bit above and a bit below and a smear around the olive. Fill the first three valleys of the male thread of the stopcock with same compound and smear, literally a smear, on the face the olive mates to. Clean any excess from the internal bore so nothing can wash into the PRedV and make it all back up. The brass is binding and stopping you gaining the final number of rotations to fully squeeze the olive tight. Use the force, Luke.