Nickfromwales

Ok now I'm on the fence. Had a look at the description and it's open to interpretation. It does have two inlets suggesting hot and cold, but I've seen lots which give you both so you can blank one side off ( easier installation ) which are for mixed flow input only. Best to message the seller and get it confirmed maybe?

Yup. That one is a gate valve to arrest pre-mixed flow ONLY. There would need to be a thermostatic / manual mixer valve in line, prior to it so Barney's right . It's not a mixer tap Onoff, it's a flow control. I still think they both stick out too far, and with your shaped bath adds to the choke point.

Btw, if my guests judge me by the size of my cloakroom, I need new guests .

Can that window be relocated to the far left? If so, I'd have a small corridor cloakroom ( where do you stand with BR's over size btw ? Wheelchair access ? ) and have the rest of the footprint dedicated to storage and plant.

If your not sealed from outside just wondered if it may sweat. Overthinking as usual, wonder where I get that from. I foamed a soil pipe that came down in a hotel foyer. I put around 2" of foam all around it, PVA'd it, scrim taped it and Artexed it to look like a roman pillar. Shaved the foam accordingly assuming it would quiet the 'noise' but no such luck. If say about 1% quieter if that.

Dense wool would be better but you prob don't want wool against the barrier.

Expanding foam doesn't do a JOT for sound deadening a soil pipe, ask me how I know. .

This is what we used to supply with every telephone on structured cabling ( patch able) installs. Phone plugs into that, that plugs into wall socket. If your having a dedicated cordless phone position ( base station ) then it seems a better idea to make that one a dedicated BT outlet and have done with it maybe?

Needs to have a thru-tang ( metal strike cap which is part of the whole metal shaft and blade in one solid section ) or it'll just break if hitting it hard, and repeatedly.

RJ11 to RJ45 iirc.

Raised sole plate is what I did on the last one where I needed to put a soil run at the bottom of a new stud wall, but I also made it 6x2 so the knuckles of the bends were absorbed in the depth and I could then just PB it as normal.

Yup, that's doable. The downside is no cross connectivity after your second fixed, eg a phone outlet is never going to do data without a strip out and re-termination. The whole idea of cabling in cat5 is that you can patch things without having to make any alterations to the hard wired side. All the cat5 outlets get same - config wired and you then use an adapter 'dongle' ( like the RJ45 to BT adapter ) and then plug your phone into that. Tbh, with cordless DECT telephony it's a wonder why people want the bother. The Panasonic ones I fitted for the last customer worked at over 30m away from the house. Crackled a bit at that distance but pretty good for change of £100 for a 4 pack Plus with the DECT ones you can transfer calls from one handset to another, page, intercom call and more so a lot of pros to support considering them IMHO. You can also get DECT repeaters for certain brand cordless phones which will give you another 30-50m range ( garage / outbuildings etc ).

You facing that with ply ? Would save a lot of complication making those studs good again.

Guilty. ?

Yes, open pipe for primary is fine. Certainly a good time to upgrade IF the cylinder is U/S.

One here for change of £7 including postage. Very handy to have a 'duff' chisel with a wide blade and you just put an edge back on with a hand held grinder. ( safety first ). Good for all sorts of things like lifting floorboards etc.

Drain down the central heating with the cold mains feed to both tanks turned off ( float valves ). If the CWS empties over a couple of hours also then it's a perforated coil. You need to be draining at a point that ensures the cylinder coil is getting drained, ideally, as that will give a faster indication.

+1 just bring the 110mm pipe up as far as you can and then fit one of these

I doubt any of it is metal? Unless it's stainless. Everything I've seen so far is plastic or Upvc. I'm asking btw, as I've not looked at this at all yet. .

Are we deffo talking about the CWS ( cold feed to the hot cylinder ) and not the much smaller F&E ( feed and expansion for the central heating ) ?

Just going to buy the eps from merchants and fixings off the bay. What else do you need beyond that?

Something like this Frankensteined ?

At that tolerance it's paramount that the pipe is supported VERY well to keep it absolutely flat along it's fall. Normal plastic soil clips have a sag of prob 5mm or more so be very careful when doing horizontal runs In extreme cases where the wall isn't flat, plumb and straight ( such as a n old basement ) I'd even consider using Uni-strut to make brackets and hang the soil pipe in some metal 110mm pipe clips ( like these ). That would also allow you to adjust the height of clips to set the fall just by turning the clips into the threaded bar more / less.