Nickfromwales

As long as water gets to them then what the hey Don't forget, if you go for an UVC or have to G3 the install, you'll need a secondary PRedV ( multiblock ) which will come supplied. That HAS to be with the cylinder for G3, even if you have one at the stopcock. They'll also want a NRV ( single check ) on the hot outlet to stop any unwanted mixing of pressures at mixer taps / showers etc from back flow, ( as a failsafe against the secondary PRedV ( at the stopcock ) failing ). Part of that multiblock would be a 5 or 6 bar cold mains blowoff, and also a TPRV, so make allowances for running a 22 or 28mm D2 discharge pipe if your going to need a path through the house to get it to ground level outside.

I wouldn't wish storage heaters on my worst enemy. I lived in my brothers house for 2 years when he moved out to shack up and it was all electric E7 etc. No ta. For simpliclty and reliability just fit an external oil combi, and an electric shower. I'm a fan of cooking on gas, as I can't afford a swanky top notch electric hot plate / induction doobery, so I'd also recommend fitting an LPG hob with electric oven ( dual fuel ). Reports are that a tall ( 47kg ) bottle can last up to a year in a regular household. For the heating system, power flush the existing radiator pipework and fit new radiators and valves. Radiator packs with the likes of MrCentralHeating are cheap as chips, so no excuse there. Make sure that the tenancy agreement allows access to check the oil levels and to include penalties for allowing the oil to run out, ( the cost of an engineer cleaning the filters and unlocking the boiler ). Fit a sonic tank level meter so at the 1/4 empty point you / they can request a refill without having to do anything physical. ASHP will be a non starter unless there are some SERIOUS upgrades to insulation and draught-proofing. They'll be better off at that stage with a direct electric boiler most likely. A house of that nature will require high grade heat for the space heating and dhw, so not well matched to that application at all IMHO. Cost of all of those upgrades vs payback becomes a factor along with longevity of the HP ( with it being overworked ). Without a buffer, all the defrost would be via direct electric too so I'd not even consider it unless you were to oversize the radiators sufficiently to get the target flow temp below 40 / 45oC. A good oil combi boiler a bit over £2k A decent sized tank change of £1k ( with fittings ) Any plumber can fit the whole lot, except when it comes to commissioning you need an OFTEC installer. Best to get them to do the tank and oil lines too, and ask for their insurances against damage from oil leak contamination. Check if you'll need it independently as a landlord too, in case of loss relating from theft. Consider a more recognised and user friendly system so that you'll easily attract tennants, and it's simple to run / use. There will be a good resale value too with a typical house fitted with a good heating and hot water system.

Turn the cad off and get a spanner out I really need to get cad fluent, but then I'd spend more time drawing the damn things than actually out earning dollars. I design most of my installs the day I turn up to fit them tbh. I just look at the space for an hour or two and work all the crossovers etc out in my head and then draw a few lines and mark locations of things so I can recollect what's going where when I'm underway and then just go for it. I see the job in layers in my head so I can put timbers in, board, lay clips etc, and allow for insulation / brassware accordingly and usually it goes in first time. Usually.

Point #1, it's not the wife who'll want it boxed ? Point #2, cracking idea to put the other framed bog in there. Many birds one stone. Shall we extend the 2020 finish to 2022?

Just come off the DOC tee and put a 15mm tee in to take the DOC and then dropping down to pick up the cloak.

Sounds like valve / configuration issue to me.

+1

Yup. They're not suitable for hot / cold isolation. Should have been full bore ballofix valves or 1/4 turn WOG valves. That siad, if they're brand new then I very much doubt that they're faulty IF they've not been overtightened into the open or closed position. This is now just down to basic point to point elimination. Literally starting from the stopcock and working out wards, proving each piece of pipe has clear flow through it. Only that way will you find where the strangle is. As there's a lot of gate isolation valves this should be a but easier as you can just use scanners rather than cut the pipe and rejoin it. Get a good plumber to call round and spend a day there sorting this lot out. May be a very good idea to have someone impartial MOT the install and make sure it's fit for purpose before you go any further. If you were closer I'd come out and do it for you, so apologies for my welsh roots .

Next thing is turn off the stopcock that is in the pics, the 25x22mm one, connect some pipe to it and see if that's got the same power as the outside tap. If not, the pipes been damaged ( squashed ) underground.

Pic 4, are both the top red gate valves fully open? What does that pressure gauge by the PRedV show? Deffo need a test on that outside tap for pressure. Time to start isolating things and finding out where the 'strangle' is. Any good plumber should shoot through this process and find this in a day max tbh.

Can they be chased into the wall and fully cemented in? A 9mm wall Armorflex will suffice then. What are the new pipes feeding? Can they be reduced to 10mm?

Also, it could be a simple as the filter in the PRedV having accrued flux / solder / grot from the main, as iirc @ProDave suggested.

50 litres per min flow rate is great. 11/12 is average, 20 is good. Can we have some pics of the TS and peripheral plumbing plz. Does the cold go onto the TS in 22mm pipe? Also, do you know if plumb-o-nugget fitted a pressure reducing valve? If so, that's the first place to look for increasing the flow. I went to a job where they had 10 bar incoming mains, it was like a fire hydrant. The original installer had fkd up and didn't put the PRedV in the right place so the UVC expansion popped and flooded their £1m house from upstairs down I rejigged the plumbing and fitted a secondary PRedV at the stopcock and it was factory set to 3.5bar. I put a gauge on so the customer had a confidence register to assure them it was working fine, and I left them to it. I had a phone call from them saying that they were getting very low flow to the kitchen sink and showers so could I come back. I found the PRedV was strangling the flow more than it should have ( 22mm valve ) so I increased the pressure to 4 bar. This made a huge difference and they were pretty much as good as before I turned up so I'd deffo look there. Buy a gauge and stick it on the bath tap cold connection. With the hot running very slowly ( no pun intended ) adjust the PRedV very slowly and allow a few seconds for it to alter and equalise. Hopefully it will be as simple as this. If there one and it's set at 3 bar, try at 3.5, and if it's set at 3.5, try at 3.8 first. Raise incrementally until your happy with the flow but don't go too high. We still need to know the pressure off the outside tap tbh.

For example only Edited to add : You can buy unions which will allow you to separate the blender and pump from the rails if space is tight. I did this on a previous install where I needed the whole thing to fit in a corner. Rails went to the left, and then unions took the rail flow and return into the corner and across the back wall where I then reconnected to the pump set. Bingo.

A 12 port manifold will accept 24 pipes You need a 9 port manifold.

I've squinted at the pics a bit more, and it looks like a 25mm x 22mm stopcock to the left. Is that right?

Tightly bound Armorflex insulation, two layers of self adhesive sealed 9mm, would be bombproof. Trace heating is way overkill. The main problem would be protecting the insulation from physical / rodent abuse, so can these be capped some way?

If that's what they're designed to do, then why worry? Yes, it would be better for them to be tucked underneath, but hard driving rain will still get to them so they'll either take a battering or they won't. Seems from the installs I've seen that they will, indeed, take all that the elements can chuck at them and still perform admirably.

To clarify some details here further A red pressure vessel would be non-potable, so would relate to the primary heating circuit. The pressure gauge on that would have absolutely nothing to do with the flow rate of hot or cold water within the property. The nominal pressure for a sealed HEATING ( primary ) system would be 1-1.5 bar. That pressure would be almost identical to the gauge on the system boiler as they'd be the same body of water. Not sure what you mean here tbh. The dhw system is cold mains fed when you've got an unvented system. If you had a leak, it would hardly affect the terminal flow rate unless it was a torrent. A torrent is quite easy to find, so assume this can be ruled out. The pressure drop in a sealed heating system would only cause the boiler to switch off, and again, would leave the hot and cold flow rates completely unaffected. You need to survey the mains before recommending an accumulator. If there is insufficient static pressure, the acc would never fill, at which point ( like my current job ) you'd have to fit a break tank, a cold mains booster pump, and then the acc. Any unvented install should have a 22mm cold mains 'backbone' running throughout the house. This job has a TS, so is in essence an instant water heater. This should also have a 22mm cold mains backbone ( all cold pipework done in 22mm bar the last outlet which can be in 15mm off the 22mm ), but should also either have the majority of the hot done in 22mm, or have radial plumbing ( individual runs of small bore to each outlet from a centralised manifold ) in order to alleviate resistance from the pipework and deliver maximum flow rates. From the pics, it's clear that the plumbing may well be mostly done in 15mm. @Shell820810, do you have pics of the hot and cold connections at the TS? Also, can your hubby conform how much 22mm hot / cold pipework, if any, has been installed, and to / from where ? Ta.

See the pics Can I see a side view, close up, of the left hand stopcock. And also a clear pic of that pressure gauge as it is now. Ta.

Number one F'k up Top info

Also, do you know if you have an outside tap which comes directly off your underground water main? Can you ask next door if you can check their supply ( pressure and litres per min flow rate ). The communication pipe that serves you both / all will be at the same potential for you and next door, so best to eliminate / investigate from the supply inwards.

Can you post a pic of the incoming supply, stopcock, etc plz. .

Agree that the quoted text just massively over complicated the setup. The only thing from your comment that I'd change, Dave, is where excess heat gets 'dumped' to. I really don't like dumping such high grade heat to anywhere where it can cause injury, such as a rad in the house, as it can easily get to temps of 80oC or above and a child / elderly person accidentally coming into contact with that would be a burns victim. I always look at fitting a dedicated heat loss rad, something like a 1800x700 double convector rad positioned in a cold attic space or similar void, where it can dissipate heat with no detriment to the house or danger to its occupants. Most modern TS's will have a T&PRV 'blow off' which will open at ~90oC, ( unless it's been purchased specifically without one ), but for a gravity install these don't operate for over pressure, but are good as a secondary / fail safe for overheat. They DO NOT negate a heat dump arrangement, but are better to have than not to have. They're not critical for an open pipe install as the expansion is designed to happen at the F&E header tank, and that also negates having to get a discharge pipe from the TS to drain. One stat at the midway point for boiler control, one at the top for excess temp heat dump control and Bobs your Uncle.