Nickfromwales

Maybe I should have watched the video first ?

Could you elaborate a little on that please? Are you saying the water stays warm in the pipes ? The scenario your describing makes having the hot return sound unnecessary.

Yes exactly this and all run in copper piping. That's the 'normal' way to do it, but has the Achilles heel of long waits if the HRC is ever turned off ( so basically you'd need to run the HRC from dawn to bedtime really ) as you then have bigger dead legs caused by the 22mm pipe runs. Agree that it's a balance, as the 22mm pipe runs give the flow rates for 2 showers etc so if your happy to run the HRC accordingly then a good option as it negates complex radial pipe work. I guess it's the toss up between a passive or dynamic solution, but an HRC is really for quite adverse situations or folk who value convenience before absolute efficiency.

PM me and I'll fwd the pdf of the manual they sent. Alternatively you can request it yourself. . The unit needs a waste pipe to drain for the cold water cooling system so factor that in when considering a design.

I rang for some clarification. Here was the ( bloody quick ) reply... Nick,My names Jamie, I'm a heating engineer working for Stovesonline. My colleague Susi has asked me to contact you regarding a Woodfire CX series boiler stoves.They are designed to be installed onto pressurised systems. The boiler is tested to work at a max operating pressure of 3 bar.The boiler stove is also fitted with a quench coil, this is basically an indirect pipe which has cold water passed through when overheating. The cold water which is passed through the quench coil is controlled by a overheat valve. The valve has a probe which is fitted into the boiler stove, if the temperature in the boiler reaches 97degc then the cold water flushes through the boiler stove which in turn cools the stove down.I've attached the installation and operating manual for you. Please let me know if you have any questions.Kind regards, -- Jamie Bennett Heating Systems Manager

You stayed in education longer than me I meant it's not full of energy specific to the production of hot water for dhw. ( or poor words to that effect ). Now shut it, and help me say what it is that I meant to say

Please tell me how this ties in with the sunamp enquiry ?

Technically it's storing heat ENERGY so can be do texted anywhere you like. I'll check out the vid later and see what I can derive from it

I'm sure you won't be waiting too long

I can vouch for him What @PeterW said.

07:30 onwards, you're back in business. Sleep now, for tomorrow I fear more ranting. My 6-shooter is loaded, and ready to pick off any trouble makers If we all keep to the facts I may save on ammo. "Have a nice day, Y'all"

Does the hot run in 22mm for the majority and then reduce to 15mm with a 15mm return?

Just glad to be providing a service.

Ok. Boiling tap with blended instant hot water for the kitchen sink, with one assuming you'll have a dishwasher?. Write the expense of the tap off against the cost of the HRC and associated pipework / complexity and running costs. Go for radial plumbing throughout and consider a cold mains accumulator to reinforce the flow rates if your incoming supply is less than perfect. The delay to ensuite 1 will only be apparent when you run the basin hot taps after a jimmy riddle / other. That can be reduced by running them in 10mm. The baths and showers will be relatively high flow rate outlets so by the time you've turned the tap on fully and selected your favourite loofa the water will be hot. The thing to observe is reducing the amount of large bore primary pipework prior to the manifolds for the hot feeds. FYI, I previously plumbed a similar sized property and ran a HRC for just the basins. That worked well as there were a few satellite basins ( WC's ) which would have suffered otherwise. I chose to run a well insulated HRC and also decided to continue a spur off the HRC down to the very far away kitchen sink ( pretty similar to your layout tbh ). I ran the HRC at 50oC to keep the temp,high enough for 'dish wash' and then put individual TMV's ( thermostatic blending valves ) at each wash hand basin to reduce the water temp to make it comfortable for hand washing, negating the faffing about between hot and cold.

Let me dart the last 2 kids then I'll come back to this

Nope. I think this thread NEEDS a night off.

2 day ban for you

I don't think your two concerns are directly related tbh. Having good flow will have nowt to do with a hot return circuit ( HRC ) or standard plumbing, either will be dependant upon pipe sizing, incoming cold mains pressure and flow rates, and your chosen dhw production unit having a good flow rate through it. Which room is the kitchen under.? Can you post the other floor plan please

Tres bien, Rodney.

I really didn't want to embrace this tbh, but seeing the 'shed-in-progress' I have to chomp some humble pie. It actually looks quite good.

Sounds better. It adds a lot. More plumbing, more components, you'd still need a generic rad in the top room as well as the dump rad as it'll only dump when the system overheats so you can't use it to heat 'when you like' . Open pipe needs F&E, without it you'd be all sealed so a much less complex setup and much easier to integrate things with / to. I'd go for a TS not a buffer ( whilst an uvc is dedicated to dhw ) so you can get cold water uplift and pre heat the water going into the uvc. That'll aid downsizing, and help out massively when Pv isn't generating.

I didn't want to say it, but I'll certainly second that tbh. . Hes going to the merchant for advice, which is bad on a good day.

You'll find they'll be well seasoned by now and take a lot of 'abuse' eg having Ufh. I'd favour that existing timber over new stuff all day long. .

Ok Having the TS in the attic could be a problem. With a solid fuel heat source you'll need an open pipe 'vented' primary heating circuit servicing that arrangement. That means you'll need a large galvanised steel feed and expansion ( F&E ) tank at a minimum of 1m above the top of the TS. Next problem I see is running heating and hot water via the TS for when the ashp is being used. The space heating should ideally be able to run direct ( via a small buffer ) from the ashp to the Ufh. Otherwise the ashp will need to constantly run at high temp so as not to cool the TS and render it useless for dhw. Lets go bite size on this . Thoughts so far?

You won't be using those boards Experpt..... " ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation Boards are ideal for two primary purposes; as a superior waterproof surface to fix wall or floor tiles and as a first class heat insulation for underfloor heating systems. ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation boards are particularly suited to underfloor and under tile heating applications. Installation below underfloor heating systems on an existing un-insulated concrete or timber sub-floor will greatly reduce heat up time and running costs." Youd be better off with a quality plywood, but I'd probably recommend that you fix engineered flooring directly over the plates. I'd bond them down rather than mechanical fix or floating, so they have a good contact for heat transfer but still some movement.