Nickfromwales

@Bitpipe, for one, went down this route with good results. Fitting a full wet system for a tiny bit of focussed heat is a bit OTT, so I'd seriously consider whether you actually need to go the whole hog or not. As said elsewhere, electric is far more 'on and off-able' so can just be used literally with the rooms occupancy as they're pretty much instant heat / comfort. Turn on 30 mins before occupancy and turn off 15mins before you vacate as it'll take a while to cool off again so pointless 'over heating' it .

Im sure I've asked elsewhere, but can you export to the grid if you DIY?

Remember the manifold should be upstairs as the highest point so you can release trapped / accumulated air / gas at the bottle vents on the manifold rails.

You don't need to have pozi joists to fit UFH Just fit aluminium spreader plates and notch the top of each joist accordingly. If you don't want to notch out the full 16mm, just notch 6mm of the joist and fix 12mm ply atop the joists. Bingo.

Tell them your going to pour petrol all over it and set it alight. When they say "how will that affect us, sir?", you simply reply.... "directly you twats, cos it'll be in your showroom when I do it". ? Edward Woodward.

An inside job ?

What's the MININUM loading of the dimmer? You may need to add some resistance to the load to control it properly.

Any links for cheap internal fire doors anyone? 27" and 30" Preferably panelled or barn style, no pressure . ?

If you just foam or dab EPS onto the wall you'll be surprised at how well it adheres and how rigid it goes. Just done the attic pine end ( stone ) walls this way and it's rock solid. I then foamed / dabbed PB straight on top of the EPS and skimmed. Fixing anything to the wall is a pita but I overcame that with BFO concrete screws ( 43" tv on tight with no movement ). Dont underestimate just how well EPS bonds without mechanical fixing, but I dabbed the shit out of mine so next to no voids . Whack one on and see for yourself. These are all 30mm EPS PB's stuck with dab and foamed all around. They're going nowhere.

Bosch Quick change for me chaps. ? If I get a FOOKIT moment I just make a template out of ply and use that to centralise the bit. Oh, and I don't have a lathe ?.....( yet ) ?

@Barney12 @JIH @joe90 and others.....we give you..... Ta-daaaaaa ?

And if it's a continuous bead, then you almost certainly will stop convection airflow behind the insulation. That's what I'm doing to the insulated plasterboards I'm currently fitting on a refurbishment, continuous horizontal beads plus full beads at the sides, and head. Saves going mad at the foot where I can't see properly ( and want left clear to stave off damp bridging ( it's a basement )). Id stop the builder now and sit him down and directly address this with him letter by letter. I always find its best to offer an extra day's rate / whatever for any downtime this causes as if you add to the remit then they're entitled to be compensated accordingly imo.

What Ian said, Hi, and welcome to the forum. You'll soon get a bite I'm sure, just ask away in the relevant sections / topics and things will soon gain momentum. .

I'd go with whatever made me happy, and let everyone else adapt, or remain quiet whilst they disapprove. . Everyone will soon accept things as the norm, it's just fresh to you right now so the 'issue' seems bigger than it actually is. Stick a doorbell alongside it and call it a day .

More reason to leave it for now . Or bite the bullet and crack on with the UVC ASAP ( e.g. now )

Nope. Just leave it for now and do the TMV's after you fit the UVC.

Long pipes & insulation etc is fine. The only thing you need access to is the Temp+PRV, which is tank mounted as it has a temp probe, and the immersion. At 250 / 300 Ltr, you'll be able to select dual 3kw immersions so why not go that route for occasional 'boost'? That'll add another 6kw of heat input which, along with the ashp, should give you shower after shower after shower and still have headroom for a bath. The ashp will quickly start replenishing the heat as it depletes, and a combination of the two, when under duress, should be ample imo IF you go for a 350ltr cylinder. I know that's pushing your Monday to Friday envelope a bit, but you must design for your worst case scenario I'm afraid, and I think this would be the best option. Remember that if you fit the 15mm Steibel after the UVC, it can only service one bathroom. If you connect both rooms to it, you'll be strangling the 22mm hot outlet of the UVC and subjecting it to the max flow rate the instant will allow ( through said 15mm internals ). Very difficult to see how you'd 'provision' for retro fitting the Steibel at a later date as that would require a whole different approach to what should be a straight-forward UVC install ; UVC to manifolds in 22mm pipe. 15mm feeds to each room or outlet. Job done.

I'd also say just fit one and set it as high as you can tolerate at the basin. That'll give plenty for the bath as hands are more tolerant than your 'white bits'.

Spit it out man

I haven't used it for a while so check on some off-cuts first. Or should I say Onoff-cuts?

Basin and kitchen sink?

I can't believe we've done this to him so late in the game He was just about to mix some tile adhesive too. Damnit.

Me too.

Well, I'm a man of my word..... I'll shut my mouth. . For everyone who didn't know, I asked. Bingo.