Nickfromwales

Fit the EWI? Yes I'm looking to do it myself, as I don't like some of the jobs I've seen tbh. Poor detailing at the top and exposed sides so rain must be pouring through some of the worse ones. I put 30mm + 9.5 PB insulated boards on the inside face of the outside walls of the bathroom, and I'm considering a layer of 40 - 50mm EPS on the external wall to make up for the lack of cavity. I went block on flat as the original which I had to adhere to is 9" brick no cavity, and time was something I didn't have to look at other options so I just dug the raised ground level away from DPC level by a good 100+ mm and no issues so far other than a bit of cold bridging around the window which I think is because of the dry line adhesive.

Apologies, I missed this one. Im with your missus tbh, get it chopped out and redone if you can get at it from the adjacent room. It'll only do you nut in after you move in and you'll then not want the grief. "Don't spoil the ship for a penny of tar"

"Part fixing" EWI gets 'first' fixed with foam to deal with the undulations and provide a temporary bond. Non-metal fixings are then typically used to provide a secondary mechanical fix. Something I'm looking to do to the rear two walls of my ground floor bathroom ( block on flat ) before the winter kicks in.

A chip off the old block.

Sounds spot on ( with you having put too much glue in too me thinks ).

Situations only get out of hand if unsuitably managed. One example was a house in Swansea town centre where someone did a knock through. Only thing they didn't do was assess the integrity of the ground upon which they sat the acrows on. Wish I took a pic tbh, but it think I was put off by the fact that I really didn't fancy being in the builders boots. The centre section of the pine end had dropped by about 600mm with what seemed to be only the still intact part-rotated windows holding it in place. I did one on a 3-storey brick townhouse and my arse still wobbles when I think of what would have happened if that one 'dropped'. Lucky for me I put twice as many props in as was needed so I slept well for the one night it was unsupported. Caution, with a smidgen of fear is a healthy mix to ensure you follow procedure.....and then some. If you chose to go that way make sure you chose someone inventive and that they offer more than a simple "footing and pillar" option

Oh, and to avoid a pillar you may get away with a pair of concrete lintels, say 150x100x1200/1600 sat atop the wall to act as pads. I did this I'm my neighbours house as the steel needed to be where the original bit of wood sat which was the sliver of brickwork between the two alcoves ( 1 which was the right hand alcove in the dining room, and 1 which was the left hand alcove of the living room ) where divided. No wonder when my neighbour asked me to investigate it was prompted by his coving coming down by an inch at this junction !! A pillar would have ruined the flush look of the wall as it traversed the new open plan liv / din room so I went at it that way. Still up lol.

Pop the manhole up,and try a bit of old fashioned echo-location. Turn a sledge hammer upside down and with someone ( unlucky ) dangling their head in the manhole someone else goes around and gives the ground a good thump. Audible feedback at the manhole gives you at least some indication and it's free.

Wide old wood chisel works quite well. Be careful of disturbing the top course of each reveal if they're lightweight blocks. You can get long TCT blades for recip saws which will go through without any drama but that's probably over thinking it.

Hmm. Was it dribbling out or expanding out? Sounds like the stuff I use when biscuit jointing etc.

Thanks for the feedback

Brown clear liquid or opaque like PVA?

Yup. It's a PU isn't it? Did you damp the joints with a cloth first ?

Nice bit of finishing work though, considering the only tool I can see is a lump hammer

To hell with the table, what a beautiful weight.

A long radius bend will give a near silent change of direction for the 'contents' of the pipe. 2 x 45's may create a bit more noise IMO. Have you thought about getting a camera survey done. A bit more concise than dowsing tbh, and if you'll be excavating then I'd want 'concrete' evidence before the shovel came out. Call me sceptical but I'm on the fence with this dowsing business . Fwiw, as long as you have 5mm + per metre you'll be fine. Just getting BCO to be happy will be the grief but I've got of the hook before by being able to demonstrate the operation of the soil network, from flushed item ( big handful of bog roll ) to the manhole outside. Fitting a Y-branch directly after ( downstream ) of the swept bend will get you, ahem, brownie points

Yup. A coupler and a generous bead of CT1 will seal just about anything tbh.

Chuck more wood on, the wasps don't like smoke.

Then the box is ticked afaic.

Does your shower use an impeller pump?

All the PRV's I've seen ( on the multiblocks ) have had an integral stainless gauze filter. I can't recall if a regular / stand alone PRV has one or not. Do you have the link to your one? If your reading the instructions I assume you've bought one already?

Drill an 18mm hole and just wrap it with insulation tape. If you make the hole too big you'll stuff yourself when you come to drill and fix it. The fixing holes are quite tight to the pipe so don't take away the brickwork that you'll need to drill, plug and screw into

Cheapy one off eBay or gum tree. A ladder will not suffice. Health and safety would have a field day and you'd also have to get some form of mechanical handling sorted for carrying plasterboard a etc as a ladder won't have the weight capacity. I did the same on an extension so we didn't have to go through the existing house. I used 9x2" for the sides and treads with glue and chunky screws. Carried all the sheet material up it so two guys and gear at a time without a creak. Securing it well top and bottom is of equal importance as it doesn't matter how strong the stairs are if they aren't secured properly. Pay close attention and inspect it weekly, ( as if you provide it you'll be responsible for making sure it's safe and for keeping it that way ).

A bit cheaper here Tbh, it's a bit naff for circa £600 imho. Check out this bad boy for comparison.

Facing that whole elevation with 18mm ply, glued and screwed, will regain the strength you lose from chopping out. .