Nickfromwales

Isn't that the bit that the Doc from Back To The Future puts the fuel into the Delorian ? ??? Could be worth more as abstract art maybe. Well worth the wait

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EBT for my jobs, the others are more marine / exterior specific hence their prices.

£5.50 per tube to the door Ebay to the rescue

Don't use gripfill. Use sikaflex. Gripfill skins over too quickly, and requires lateral movement when using as a grab adhesive to 'break' the two beads into each other ( never just apply it to one surface ). Fwiw I haven't bought a tube of GF for as long as I can remember. Sikaflex is just so much better and doesn't dry 'brittle' like GF does. I personally can't stand the stuff and only use Pink-grip when I need to bond stuff if I ever need zero movement, as above I bond both surfaces and agitate with a spreader / similar seconds before mating the two surfaces. One example of where I used it was that wall hung WC where I framed the stud wall with 100x50mm box steel and I bonded the steel to the wood. After sliding the two against each other, post application of PG, it was claimped and left to cure. I cant see anywhere now where you should be using a solvent product such as GF or PG so please ditch that and switch to Sikaflex ?. Also using SF for the tile fixing onto the ply would be better than silicone, but silicone will suffice. Don't even consider using flexible tile adhesive on the boxing / framing as it will last about a week.

You 100% deffo need that additional fillet to secure it along the length. Fwiw, I'd do it in ply not PB.

There are different rules for screw spacings . If your just skimming then 300mm would be fine, but when your tiling and there is a certain kg/p/m2 loading then you need much more purchase. I'd go no less than 120mm centres. Stud centres for kitchens & bathrooms must be at no less than 400mm, NOT the 600mm permissible for 'other' rooms. Screws are so cheap there really is no excuse not to go for more, even if that's above the 'standard'.

If you want a middle ground and the floors have been glued and screwed, not nailed, then just use Ditra mat . Thinner than ply and completely decouples the tiles from the substrate. Edit to add: no experience of the above mentioned sorry. FYI, I'd NEVER risk tiling onto wooden flooring of any kind without a 'movement mitigation' strategy.

An uvc can be used, but a buffer will also be required. Pointless fitting two cylinders when one will do. Also, a TS will give continuous DHW where an uvc will eventually run cold. Feel free to ask if / when required .

( 20 mins the way I drive ).

Bridgend is only 20 mins up the M4. I'm J45 .

Short term? ....,......... Just use a redundant UFH manifold port ( obviously you'll have to buy a manifold ) or put the UFH and TR in series for now off the unit you bought .

That's the stop gap iirc, long term you'll be off the manifold

Bingo. Whack it on the towel rad and select the temp to suit your marital status

@Onoff What's the temp range of that pump / blender you picked up off eBay? Btw, using a naff old dangerous towel rail as an example of how the new bathroom will be is a bit daft tbh . The downstairs towel rad will be as hot as you design it to be, so you just engineer the solution around the remit and then you'll get the desired result. Simples. As a reality check, get a towel and hang it on a coat hanger. Put that in a heated room and watch it dry all by itself.

Go for a towel rad, as a regular rad will just overheat the room imho. Your missus will be suitably impressed with the UFH, to a point where you can ask "cream or custard for your humble pie, dear?" .

You've got me thinking now about how much easier a steel frame would be for my up coming manshed. Great thread, I'm watching closely. ?

It's also down to the type of boiler which is there. If it's not suitable for direct connection you may need to integrate a buffer to make it so. . Breaking out and removing the slab isn't that much grief, just labour and muck-away intensive, but the resulting product may not be any more efficient unless you address the fabric heat loss ( draughty / Swiss-cheese esque build ) but if not too bothered then it's reasonably easy to achieve with a few quid chucked at it. Heat loss calc is essential as the radiators may be able to produce more heat than the UFH for each given room / space ( so beware of that ).

B and Q trade point had similar for £40 which I snapped up. It's still going strong and that's mixing tile adhesive in full bag to bag-and-a-half quantities which isn't easy going. I may buy that one if the B and Q one isn't available any more, just to have a second 'clean' machine for plaster only. +1, good find. .

Half dozen blank completion certificates would guarantee your safety

I've been carrying out building work for years . 2 x 4.5m steels and 1 x 4.9m steel going in end of the week. Another day in the office, except I need about 8 guys on site for grunt. . Met Knowles and the gang on the swansea big build about 18 months or so. That was a crazy 9 days ?

Don't forget you can buy useable baths from 1500mm upwards. Captains baths are usually 1500-1600 long . I would do away with the bath tbh, and accept that a family with small children won't buy. Doesn't sound like that's your target audience anyhoo. Id do everything in my power to put a shower room upstairs, no bigger than needed, and fit ( retain ) a downstairs WC with wash hand basin only. Forget the downstairs shower IMO as no buyers will be expecting two bathrooms in this size house and will deffo not appreciate the lost space / size of the rooms sacrificed to achieve that. Make sure there is good ventilation and only part tile so your buyers can change the colour with different paint.

Don't forget we have a market place section here mike . Pop any other items in the 'wanted' section, and check there's nothing you need soon on there 'for sale' too .

Don't be sorry ......it pays the bills. .

Results all 'round. Historical regs have been granted as the flats have been existing for over 3 decades. No need for sprinklers, full epc and mega sound proofing, ( and probably more ). Phew. I am, however, fitting insulated PB on the external walls, full filling the 1st floor joist voids with 200mm of acoustic roll, fitting 15mm FR PB to the ceiling, then counter battening perpendicularly and fitting resilient bars. That will then have acoustic ( blue ) PB fitted, so sound deadening should be more than sufficient ( I hope ). As the 2nd floor flat is accessed from the basement rear door, the one which will be the sole means of access for flat A and flat B, there is a requirement for a smoke velux at the head of the staircase. As the top flat has a high ridge height from the upper landing level, I'm unsure as to how best 'make that work'. There is a strong possibility that the client wants to move into the top flat herself and have the attic as the master bedroom, so I'm assuming I can't take the additional ( new to attic ) stairs above the original ones as there would then be no scope for an openable window off the primary means of escape. Getting BCO to call out again next week to get some input and approvals so I can crack on. Basement flat has the original full rear elevation knocked though and supported by steels ( done over 30 years ago ) to extend the rear out. As I thought, the steels are too short and insufficient in size for me to cut and weld onto to extend them, so SE has been out and I get the calcs for the new steels in the morning. £2k later and they'll be fitted. ? Have taken it upon myself to fit steel in the box bedroom so I can take the original fireplace out, thus making the box bedroom a decent bit wider. What difference will a couple more days of smashing and bashing make eh?!? Off tomorrow to buy the steel and get some genie lifts and acrows delivered ready for the tribe to turn up . If you don't hear from me again, we needed more acrows ?