Nickfromwales

You ideally want to be lower temp than the flow and return ( boiler flow ) so either tmv or manifold for the towel rad is best. Buffer can go in the airing cupboard . Two birds one stone.

Moretti from screw fix have to be the biggest POS's I've ever come across, for comparison. 3, all dead within a year to 18 months. Went down a storm as one was in the SiL's house 5 year warranty which wasn't worth a w**k. Mira, Bristan, Triton, and then upwards to the Grohe / HansGrohe stuff is the sliding scale on which I'd purchase. Vado seems very good for the money, and most models I've seen / fitted have a 12 Year warranty. These are my weapon of choice for budget / rental installs but they loom great, perform well and don't appear to break down according to my feedback. 5 years warranty backed by triton so that's your 4 year itch scratched and if you had to replace it after 5 years it's £70 This is vados offering for comparison

Nope. It's spot on. Hot goes in the top and as heat dissipates it gets cooler towards the bottom and the cooler water leaves via the lower valve. Have you thought about running a pair of pipes from the towel rad to the Ufh manifold and putting it on it's own zone? I can't remember if your planing a buffer for the Ufh or not, but if your on oil then I'd not recommend running any such 'short' circuit from the heating system as it'll short cycle like crazy. If no buffer then I'd only run all these in unison, eg rads, Ufh and towel rad all on together so as to compact short cycling. Dont run single pipe, just run two 15mm pipes up to the 1st floor and pick up off the heating ( flow and rerun ) for the interim and then jump to the manifold later on if required. There is no practical way to convert single pipe to F&R later down the line so forget that IMO. If you want to go super flashy, make a single circuit kit for the towel rad alone and then you can set the temp via a dedicated TMV . Just needs a pump and a TMV. Simples.

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I didn't say don't go to one, more USE one . See the goodies, ask who makes it and what the names / styles are called and get them around to give you some ideas. Push your luck and get them working for you. Source the stuff directly if you can or at least ring around other suppliers for equivalent supply only prices. A lot of the high end kitchens are sold on to white van guys for fitting, so think twice about using their fitters / recommends fitters unless you can go see some happy customers. Last £30k kitchen I saw from Magnet was fitted horrifically with the icing on the cake being the gas hob fitted by a non gas registered fitter ?. I had to condem it and have my mate come around and isolate the gas supply immediately. Ask a LOT of questions and assume nothing. Any detail you don't cover will be your fault if its missed / overlooked / assumed otherwise.

Oh, and for everyone's benefit, you DO NOT test dry ( with air ) if there is an automatic air release on the manifold

If it's had free reign with the cold mains connected then you haven't got a leak upstairs unless you've got puddles downstairs. I never, ever, dry test. My philosophy is, if there's a leak, let's damn well see it. Every time there is one, and anyone who says they've never had a leak has never done any plumbing, connecting to the moans and just switching it on will find it in seconds. It will piss out everywhere if left for 30mins or so, so your half day stint is, IMO, the end of the chat. My opinion = No leak.

Cold water would expand slightly so deffo a normal,thing to see an increase. Check it at midnight and it'll be back down most prob. Its a very small volume of water, so small changes will show quite dramatically on a gauge.

I'm of the opinion that the sooner you can cut a showroom out of the picture the better. That is of course because I can design and fit it without assistance, but you may not be able to do the same. At that point you NEED the designer that the showroom provides so it's then down to putting a value on that service and negotiating as good a price as possible. Never accept the first quote, leave without purchasing and let them chase you with the best deal. . I do that with Howdens, and it's a few days max before they're on the phone chasing the sale......

Can you just fit a meter box and ask them to stick it in there and let them bugger off? Have a coupe of £20 notes on you and ask them to leave 50m of slack coiled up there with the socket made off to the end. If they won't, it's not the end of the world having a joint in the cable so just get them to do as little as possible and get them sent away ASAP.

You're supposed to close the air vents when pressure testing . If in any doubt, disconnect the manifold, remove it, and test each loop for a couple of hours at mains pressure. Use a non return valve for the inlet and cap the other side with the gauge. .

Schoolboy error alert ! Last Time I did that was 7pm and the last screw into a full ( PU glued ) sheet of P5 flooring. Hit the 22mm cold main .

This stuff . Different sizes ( widths ) available.

I've run literally thousands of M's of Cat 5 in my time and never really had the time, or encouragement from my employer, to worry about keeping X distance from bunches and bunches of mains cables. Everything still worked fine ( last solicitors office I did we fitted 40 odd PC network points and around 60 phones ) and I shudder to think what was behind some of the false ceilings that we blindly pulled the runs through ( with 10M long glass-fibre rods ). All I can tell you, without exaggeration, is that it all worked 100% perfectly and is still working there today. Im not saying do a bad job, and in not saying be lazy, but don't exceed the requirements beyond a practicable point as that's just wasted time and effort and it can be better spent elsewhere where it would be recouped measurably. Are you having to chase out for these cable drops?

I really don't know what's going on here ......... Haaaaaaaeeeeeeeeeeellllllllllllp!!!!

She was on her knees rubbing grout off the bathroom tiles belting out "Turn around......." More interesting were the stories from the team about their various 'activities'. Bunch of lunatics

The only thing I'd add to that would be ditch the S plan and feed the TS direct from the boiler. Feed the Ufh from the TS, it's a far better solution than running off the boiler imho, and go for a boiler which can match your max dhw flow ( kW that the dhw coil can provide ( 28mm coil and TMV is circa 46kw )). It'll not need to idle then as it won't be serving Ufh on demand, instead it'll be pulsing higher grade heat into the TS thus optimising the temp range and condensing efficiency will be maximised.

That cutter is a good for the money, my blade cost £40 ! If you foam first, don't forget to mask up anything you don't want it to get on. I'd just fill the gaps with adhesive as I went tbh, no waiting, no cutting back excess foam etc and will add to the bond.

My alternative answers would not have been publicly acceptable.

I'm out

Eileen

The force is now weak with you. ?

I know of no such chap......Shirley, you can't be serious? ? I met Bonnie Tyler on DIY SOS and she was game for a laugh. Proper Welsh girl .

With a picture maybe ?