Nickfromwales

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Openreach. Pissup. Brewery.

I got all my stuff from Boulder Developments, but many on here have sourced via Wunda too.

FYI the video shows the mdpe pipe acting exactly as the accumulator would, just with near zero means to hold the pressure for any meaningful period. The pipe is swelling slightly under static pressure and 'inflating' ever so slightly. The tap being opened just releases that tiny bit of stored energy and then it's back to normal dynamic potential. The accumulator would offer a means to store that energy but with much greater capacity and sustain.

The dynamic pressure and dire flow rate are irrelevant as you know you need to reinforce it by whatever means . Id fit an accumulator, as Dave says, and size it around 500ltr ( so around 300ltr useable water volume ) and fit a pressure reducing valve set to around 4.5 bar. The important thing now is to plumb the house accordingly in anticipation of an acc being installed. Can you get a pipe between the garage and the house easily enough so the vessels can go in the garage out of the way?

All manifolds and pipe work can be procured in standard 15mm format for ease of installation . The pump on the manifold for the rads will more than suffice, and the blending valve will allow you to fine tune the heat delivery for maximum comfort. The last one I did had two large convector rads downstairs on 10mm pipe runs and they worked perfectly well, with the manifolds some 15-18m away on the first floor. Sizing the rads is down to calculation. Tbh, in a low energy home, the 'standard' used for sizing rads would probably see you with rads much bigger than you actually need anyhoo so ask your local merchant to do the rad sizes per their rough as toast calculator and you'll be more than covered. Without any further specifics it's a bit of a "how long / piece of string" question but not rocket science by any means

It's just a bit overkill unless fitting the smaller unit IMO. The larger units are suitable for running an entire property, basin / bathing / kitchen / utility etc, just like a small combi would. Only downside is that the flow rates aren't great. A pumped electric shower has a good flow rate and will run consistently during use, which is more than any other type of instant will ever offer you. Instant water heaters are massively susceptible to fluctuations in the cold mains supply, other hot / cold outlets being opened elsewhere in the property whilst the shower is in use, so factor in all these things when making your choice.

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A TS will best deal with the rads / Ufh mix, and you may want to improve that with a separate coil in the TS to supply heat to the rads. That'll enable you to isolate the Ufh and therefore not allow any ferrous particulate ( rust / corrosion ) to contaminate the Ufh and associate components. That would create a separate circuit which would require its own filling loop / PRV / and exp vessel but would ensure the water stayed clean in the Ufh system, which it wouldn't do in a conventional 'mixed' setup. Contamination in a mixed system can be managed with inhibitors and a good maintenance schedule, but will not remove all of the problem like isolating it would. Consider slightly oversizing the rads and running them off an Ufh manifold to get the flow temp down so the rads run at a lower flow temp as you'll not want the rads running of the TS direct because then they'll be at the boiler flow temp which, with a TS, would be uncomfortably / unnecessarily hot in a well insulated house Running off an Ufh manifold will easily allow integration of individual room stats in each bedroom / space served by rads for total comfort control and will prevent any unoccupied spaces from getting heated when not required. I've done these setups before, exactly like this, and they work really well, just depends on how much control you do / don't want.

It would usually mean putting a 50a breaker and a 10mm cable minimum, bigger if the run is long. Some of the higher flow units are up at between 12 and 15kw, with the baby units around 9kw. Wattage divided by voltage gives you the current ( as a rough guide ), then allow diversity factor. Your supposed to add to the volume of CWS storage when you add a point of consumption The main problem is when your shower empties most, but not all, of the water from the tank and then the splashing water entering the tank stirs up the silt etc at the bottom of the tank. That then gets pulled into the filters of such devices and causes premature failure / excessively high maintenance intervals. The hot water cylinder requires a min of 25 gal and the shower the same, so running off one 25 gal tank will work if you don't shower excessively long or no one is using hot water at the same time, but is not recommended as it doesn't allow any redundancy / for the CWS not to be regularly depleted.

If water pressure is shat, then I'd recommend a tank fed electric shower. This is basically a normal electric shower but it has a small ( integral ) impeller pump to 'suck' water from the header tank and that gets pumped into the shower to give you tidy pressure. Downside is a little noise of the pump running, but an excellent option as it's totally unaffected by other things being used in the house, ( which normally PLAGUE a regular electric shower to a point where they shut down completely and run stone cold ) so worth the trade off. Youll have to add a sister CWS tank if the one you have now is only 25 gal, as you'll need the additional stored water ( 2x 25 gal ) to feed the shower. All you need to do is plonk the tank alongside the existing one and add a low level connection. Doesn't need a ball valve or overflow etc, just one interconnecting pipe 22mm. Cut into the link pipe and tee out there to feed the shower. ?

Question. Do all these various online outlets DO a 'January sale' ? Can't help thinking it's better to hold off rather than buy now..... Aaaagh. ?

Cheers for that ?, much appreciated. I'll give Arbico a whizz, they on phone or email only? PM me with contact details if poss please mate ?

Cheers. Seems that's the kiddy. NOW...........next question. Black Friday just grinds my gears, shall I wait until the January sales to buy the PC ? More machine vs same coin maybe?

Best to mention at some point that 'all RCBO' is preferential to 17thED 'dual RCD', in most folks opinion .

If the cables feeding the CU ( tails ) are going to be longer than 3m you'll need a switched fused isolator ( KMF / similar ) to protect the run. After that it's a straight forward job tbh. Look at peripheral stuff too for additional costs such as 10mm bond to gas and stopcock, as they may need doing / upgrading also. You could save a few quid by pulling the earth cables in ready, if they're not there already.

If you put one of those into your new bathroom I'll find you and thrash you with some thorny brambles. Great on pinball machines from the 80's, NOT great in a bathroom.

Treatment plants have low level VP's so I don't see the problem tbh. Challenge the BCO I just did and saved the customer about £10k .

Why not infill between the 'joists' with battens and 18mm ply, finished flush. Then put a 12mm V grooved engineered floor down. Bingo.

PMSL. ?

Ok, that's your lot ?? Just getting my yellow cards ready .