Nickfromwales

Do you have the link for the Ebay one? Edit : or just the size / spec / number of immersions etc?

Well, I'm happy to say, you've got the job You can start Monday. Looks neat and tidy to me, and the manifolds are a great solution for negating end-of-line isolation ( and access to more so ). Soldering 28mm is almost a skill in itself. The heat at the front of the fitting doesn't always get all the way around the pipe, so most get a dry patch at the rear of the joint, unless the heat has been applied evenly around the whole fitting. Having a dented pipe is a bitch, so you can't lose brownie points ( remember those ) for the duff joint . 9.5 out of 10. I can't give you 10 sorry, as that may steal my thunder.

The expansion vessel goes with / alongside the uvc. Some are integrated into the physical cylinder size eg there is a false top to them with the EV inside. You can even get bubble top cylinders which trap a pocket of air in the top for expansion to negate the EV. A sealed system is far less likely to give you grief IMO, but your stats are undeniably attractive . Maybe best to consider the use for this situation, as its a renter, and I'm allowing for one shower after the other, up to 4 showers in succession, at any one time. If they're ramblers, then the same of an evening. That's a chunk of DHW and they won't want to be disappointed.

You wouldn't spend all that money on an uvc and then strap it into the Delorian and take it back to the 60's by venting it and adding an open tank . If the decision is to go vented, then you buy a copper cylinder for a few hundred and a placky CWS and off you go. Reasons why not to? Cost. Complexity. Increased heat losses. Risk from having tanks in the attic, leaks etc. Incompatibility from mixed pressures to devices such as mixer taps and mixer showers. ( imbalanced hot and cold ). Needing to buy, fit, and maintain a pump for decent pressure. ( Certainly useful if your cold mains is crap ), but as @Crofter has stated his is good, so why would you steer away from good pressure, fit an open gravity system and THEN go and buy a pump to get good pressure ? Oh, and my favourite........My personal dislike of bathing in water that comes from an open tank, born, I guess, from me taking out so many with feathers, fur, and skeletons of its victims still at the bottom . Yuk. I did think about you getting a bit of uplift from fitting a huge CWS in the heated loft space and using that to 'assist' with water sitting at a bit above ambient, but the reality is it would just about nip at the problem. Plus, you'd have to store enough to get you through the mornings ablutions, and fit a solenoid on the fill valve to stop cold water entering during the morning, thus killing off any stored warmth by pouring cold water over it. Its an UVC for me here. Simple, reliable, and if sized correctly and fitted with multiple immersion or one big 6 or 9 kW one, you'll have no major issues with running out of hot water. You'll then still have ample headroom in the electric supply to have a decent induction hob. Remember that an instant and a decent hob will want upward of 80amps if running simultaneously. Might have to turn the telly off to have a shower, If power cuts are a problem, and it's a rental, dual fuel is a real consideration that shouldn't be discounted so quickly. Fitted a dual fuel LPG range in the last rental that was out in the sticks.

One of the reasons I haven't been kicked off here yet, I'm the fall guy Maybe I can bribe @SteamyTea with an 80 pack of Tetley to actually calculate how likely I am to be hit by said comet. INCOMING!!!!!

Leaded solder is certainly duller, and dullens quite quickly, after soldering and cleaning the joint initially. Anyone who wanted to establish the use of leaded solder wouldn't struggle tbh, but I doubt if the question would ever be raised, ( or that the BCO would actually give a shit ). If you TOLD them that you've used it that's a TOTALLY different thing, so keep quiet, lie, or use lead free. Simples. TBH, I now prefer soldering with lead free, but hated the stuff when it was first made mandatory. As Jeremy has said its a pita to adjust, but with me soldering literally thousands of joints I've soon forgotten about the differences. As terry said, forget trying to sweat ( solder ) a copper tail to a lead cold mains with lead free solder. You must use leaded for that and then you realise that leaded solder is far easier to form a 'shoulder' with, often referred to as a 'wiped' joint. If you REALLY want to split the atom here, you could happily use leaded for everything other than the drinking water eg all the heating and Ufh / ashp etc as the lead will be 'contained' to the sealed systems separately and away from human consumption. You've got more chance of being hit by a comet than dying of lead poisoning from soldered joints in a domastic install. What a load of bollocks. .

Ok. A LOT of options and info here from many different perspectives . With the quality of your build Rob, it's clearly possible to heat electrically. ( edited to add : so basically ruling out the need for an LPG boiler / combi ). Just how much electricity do you have available? Instants of any decent size eat through electric and drawing 50-60A is typical. Soon starts adding up . I can't recall what your doing for cooking. I assume you'd prefer to go all electric, but hopefully you've decided on an LPG hob at least? I'd recommend that option in a heartbeat as not only does it free up some juice, it also gives you means of cooking / boiling a kettle in a power cut. I think this is all getting over complicated, just to avoid a quick annual G3 inspection, which is a step in the wrong direction imo. This install screams UVC to me, and it's a no-brainer. Balanced high pressure hot and colds throughout, mixer taps and thermostatic shower mixer and shut the door. Simples. Have the UVC anywhere you like as you e got warm roof space, iirc, but I'd put it in the habitable area to create a warm airing cupboard if possible. I've fitted a 210 Ltr ones in a standard 600mm kitchen larder unit, ( in a hairdressers ), so they can be integrated with a bit of forethought. Similarly they can go into a fitted wardrobe space / similar too . Better to have the bit of heat loss used advantageously if poss so in the airing cupboard would be the No.1 choice here afaic. You can have an UVC made bespoke with 2 or theee x 3kw immersions. This would give you options of a smaller cylinder but faster recovery / re-heat times. You'd have to store at around 70oC for that option and blend the output at ~50-55oC to maximise delivery vs size. A basic, robust thermostatic shower valve will come in change of £100 and you've got a high pressure / high flow shower that will knock the occupants socks off. With your good cold mains pressure, there will still be enough headroom for someone to run hot or cold water from the kitchen sink / washing machine filling. Regarding the shower as an aside, let's not forget about tank fed electric showers ( like the Triton T80Si 'pumped' ) which has an integral impeller pump and gives the same electric shower performance ( better actually ) and convenience as a regular cold mains fed electric.

The secret is :- 1) Clean pipe. 2) Mild NOT self cleaning flux ( dont use Laco / Powerflux etc ) I use Telux. 3a) Not too much heat. When the flux fizzes and starts to evaporate away, that's when your near to overheating the copper. Also, I use a flux brush to coat the internal of the joint but also to lightly coat the solder so the fitting gets re-fluxed as your soldering. Makes for clean sound joints. Remember to allow the joint to cool naturally after soldering is complete. Leaded solder is more forgiving but lead free isn't at all, and if shocked during the early stages of cooling, it will fracture like honeycomb. 3b) In support of 3a, buy a good torch with a 'volume' control so you can get the flame size according to what your doing. Oh, and as said, ask three times, measure twice, cut once

Yup. I strongly dislike those. Solvent or nowt under the boards / boxed / tiled in.

A good time to add that Hepworth pipe is a LOT more flexible and 'user friendly' than JG SpeedFit and such others . Doing as @JSHarris said with the latter would be nigh on impossible.

I shouldn't laugh..... But ?

I did ?

To be honest, I don't. You've simply chosen a fitting which is of one discipline, and you wanted another. That's it really. Push-fit waste is one 'set' of sizes, and solvent is another . I've had a few occasions where solvent fittings have been slack on the pipe, rather than snug, but a generous layer of glue and some longer curing time has usually sorted it. For the remainder of your plumbing adventure, remember to distinguish between PF and solvent and you'll suffer less headaches

You've bought, afaic see, a PUSHFIT waste to 110mm reducer. There is the problem. Ditch the reducer for a solvent one and you'll be back to 'normal' / nominal 50mm solvent waste size.

Flush volume is adjustable on just about every flush valve on the market .

I'll vouch for RAK stuff. Fitted loads of it and it's quite good afaic, for the price.

I'll need the fuel money though, ok Dave

Yup. Dry assemble and mark is the ONLY way to work with solvent soil. Even my arse goes when working with that stuff hence my question "you feel brave enough?" . Mark the pipe for rotation AND depth so you can twist it home and you know your 'home'.

? will the pipe rotate or is it foamed in already?

http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/wcsstore7.00.00.673/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/products/AssetPush/DTP_AssetPushHighRes/std.lang.all/hu/re/Polypipe_TerrainS&W_Brochure.pdf @ProDave check out page 7. Corner boss branch. Edit. Cancel that, just saw your other thread .

@Onoff You brave enough to do it in Terrain ( solvent weld ) ? Almost no knuckle then.

Take a flexi off in 5 years and see how much crud has accumulated compared to a flat smooth soil pipe. .

Yup. Why not pack it a bit more and squeeze a pair of soil fittings for the offset? I'd strive to not use the flexi if it were me. The one I pic'd was a paying job so it was up to them. Stump up the extras for 'flexi-mitigation' or fit a flexi and don't call me call Dynorod . They chose the latter.

Wood it is then