Nickfromwales

+1

I was kind of shocked to see an M not a Bn after the £246 . That'll just about cover expenses most likely...........

I'm shocked it takes so long for some. I guess some people just didn't realise we'd so quickly forge a new forum. But we did

Get the house wired for an all RCBO Consumer Unit too. Plenty of segregation and a bit of redundancy is good. Less to lose if a breaker trips. ? Outside socket for every outside tap is a good rule, jet wash or Hoover etc.

I'm still wondering why the government hasn't better anticipated this next jump, and subsequently started a compulsory solar Pv fitting drive to every uk home. 2 panels or 4 panels on the roof of every home, controlled by the same system as E7 to stop over volting at peak generation times, used to offset wholesale energy costs and thus create a budget to beef up the local distribution networks / make them smarter. Every home has the sun shining on it, why the hell aren't we using it more intelligently ? What happens if the signal to ping your freezer back on gets interrupted?

Proper drain to the boiler location for the condensate water. Doorbell. Telephone cable. Outside sockets and lights, plus a master switch so you can bring on your security lights manually from inside the house if 'spooked'. Front and rear outside taps, if the property is sizeable. This is could be a bloody long list.

Hi, and welcome to the forum . Trials and tribulations a-plenty here so dig in!.

Welcome aboard. Documenting the bits that went well make a good forum, but documenting the things that went wrong / not to plan make a great forum . Well be glad to hear all of it .

We can't forget a username like that Welcome back Bigspud .

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Can you unscrew the brass barrel and show a pic of that please? From my experience that barrel gets PTFE'd and the hex is used to screw it in tight to get it to seal. As its not 12 o'clock / 6 o'clock sensitive, eg will just turn until tight the nipple left showing also gets PTFE'd to accept the thread in the spout. After you've tiled etc, you tighten the two grub screws and wind the spout on until it's tight against the tile / other, a pic of that would be good too ( with things labelled so we know which is which ) and then you loosen the grub screws to set the spout to 12 o'clock and retightn ready for use. Make any sense?

+1 to what JSH says. Imo the prehistoric 100mm slab / 100mm insulation / 50-80mm screed method is the poorest performing solution. As you'll be paying the heating bill, best to consider things properly before moving forward. Firstly, what is the insulation like in the building now, and what is the ventilation heat loss like? Pointless going away from radiators if UFH is going to struggle to perform adequately / in line with your occupancy pattern. A thicker slab = longer to warm up ( but longer to cool down too ) so won't be anywhere near as responsive as radiators, and prob half as responsive as UFH in 50mm of liquid screed. Heating pattern for a retro fitted UFH setup in a house that's not designed for it would typically be :- 05:30 "on" @ 21oC morning comfort 07:00 "off" @ 16oC daytime off 14:30 "on" @ 20.5oC evening comfort 22:30 "off" @ 18.5-19oC night tick-over Morning comfort is to get the house toasty warn for the morning. Daytime off is basically setting the temp one degree colder than the room idles at on a typical day. That way the heating will only come on if it's bitterly cold. Evening comfort is slightly cooler than the morning and can be adjusted ( manual override ) if required to find the sweet spot. Nighttime tick-over is the coldest you'll accept the house to drop to over night. This means the slab won't go 'cold' so it will keep the chill off and not take so long to heat up for the morning event. Note that even though these look like on and off events they are not. With any heating system that takes a long time to heat up or cool down, this needs to a a "how hot and when" setup known as "set-back" control. For eg, if you want morning heating from 06:00 to 08:00, and it's a UFH slab, you'll typically set it on at 05:00 and off at 07:00, fine tuned according to how the house actually reacts.

+1 This will need local repairs done with a good quality single application filler, such as Tupret, and then recovering with lining paper and then paint. Anything else will just result in shockingly bad walls. The best job will be seal, and skim.

Yup. Waiting on pics to fathom it out .

I would have kept them, and sold them to buy beer. ??

That's the beauty of the geberit mate, you don't need to do anything before boarding as you can do it all afterwards . Just make the flexible hose off to the isolation tap and the float / fill valve and pressure test them as it's a bit easier to do now. Hold the float up, open the iso, let it equalise, check for leaks and shut it back off. Saves filling the cistern unnecessarily. I'd sort the PRedV first TBH as you don't want to damage any of the components. .

??

It won't do any harm, so I'll shut my mouth Just there's such a good path down the flush pipe it's not going to pull much through any higher resistance paths imo. All you need now is a 'displacement meter' in the pan to gauge the fan speed

In the words of Paul Daniels....... ......."That's magic!" Grouted shots to follow.

Pointless siliconing that TBH as the flush plate isn't airtight.

A bit more to it when you you peel back the layers

Bit of laser related banter here

Ok. What ground is it sat on? You say soil, do you mean no clay found?

A simple test dig in two or three locations will put that to bed .

Nice chap. More to the point what is the crack with your PP now, with a structure that's bigger than the permission ?