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Nickfromwales

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  1. Nickfromwales
    With a chain being as strong as its weakest link, its not really worth the risk is it. "Head down, arse up" it is then
  2. Nickfromwales
    In the grand scheme of things, a lot worse could have happened. The glass is always half FULL ok ?? How many of the blocks are salvageable? On the brighter side you now get a bonus visit to sunny ( ? ) Wales ? Dust yourself off and scribble down a new plan of action, engage and push forward. We don't do problems, we do solutions. "Adapt and overcome". Focker, out.
  3. Nickfromwales
    Forgot to ask, is your build designed for the load? Eg extra big beams at 3-400mm centres? I was stuck with 600mm here. ?
  4. Nickfromwales
    That's a whopper. If your floor is still up then I'd suggest some full depth noggins as I did on this job. As these Ee kinds of baths require you to mutilate the floor to get the trap accommodated, I decided to go back to the drawing board. I didn't like the tanked floor having a bloody great big hole in it so I decided to put a 110mm storm water gulley and trap and make that off to the tanking membrane. The idea being that the coin flip waste on the bath just has a thread extender fitted to it as a dip pipe and that simply directs the bath water straight down into the trapped water below. Rodding will be a piece of cake and the flow rate that it will handle is crazy. This is the first time I've done one like this but what's not to like? ? The tiles will get Sikaflex'd to the membrane to keep it all hydraulically tight, and a ring of SFx will go under the bath to 'seal the deal' by bonding the bath to the tiles, thus leaving no escape route for the water if it ever blocked. Not that it will....it's chuffin 4" dia! Couple more 50p sized blobs of SFx at 6 to 8 locations under the bath and it should be bombproof, and the fastest emptying bath in Britain. Wales at least ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    Link ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    It's getting the amount right. It's cheap as chips so not worth experimenting imo. .
  7. Nickfromwales
    Sense says to scrape it back and do it once. Only problem is, once you start scraping, re-plastering is your only real option. Thistle have a PVA loaded plaster which iirc is only available through the likes of b&q, designed specifically to go over existing painted surfaces. My mate ( plasterer for 30 years ) says it's really good stuff and has used it a few times without issue. It does away with the need for usual 'two coats of plaster over roller applied PVA' so you can put one thinner set on if say skimming to tile trims / other depth sensitive abutting detail like coving.
  8. Nickfromwales
    Ignore the mess, but that gulley ( square ) is where the waste will exit from the centre of the stone resin £3k bath that will reside there, all 88kg of it. When full of water, and a human being is sat in it, I recon a good 330-350kg needed to be allowed for. I beefed the joists up to offset the extra weight and then simply 22mm P5, 9mm plywood ( PVA glued and screwed at 100ish mm centres ), and then tanking membrane, UTH, adhesive and tiles. The only thing that would cause cracking would be movement in the subfloor. Firstly, is your bath a claw feet bath or mounted flat on the floor?
  9. Nickfromwales
    You on a strict "no distraction" diet .
  10. Nickfromwales
    Just get a piece of 25mm brass rod, 225mm long, fit a 13mm bit in the lathe and the......... ONLY JOKING. Just buy one ffs
  11. Nickfromwales
    At the absolute bare minimum it should have been sugar soaped and scrubbed clean, then rinsed with clean water. If it was a silk or eggshell then it should have been prepped accordingly eg scratched and or sealed prior to new paint going on. I'd offer to pay for the paint if they remove the u/s coat and reapply it properly for free, that way it's only time and not money for them. It really should be totally free but all depends how good the relationship is.
  12. Nickfromwales
    Yup solvent welding 4" soil isn't for the feint-hearted.
  13. Nickfromwales
    Some are almost flush, and others have a 'drip' where the sink overhangs the unit.
  14. Nickfromwales
    £150 is a lot to have a repair, but I'll admit to not seeing one that bad repaired. Middle ground ?
  15. Nickfromwales
    I would simply hound VP until they sort this for you. Ask for the supplier and then find out who ( else ) retails their products.
  16. Nickfromwales
    Anything that takes the focus off my bloopers is fair game. . Oh, and there ain't ANY doctor who's got a cure for the crack ( that is the San Andreas fault ) going through your sink.
  17. Nickfromwales
    If I think there's a chance of contamination I'll use foam cleaner, but tbh, with a good few revolutions you can actually see the white of the PVC dissolving into the solvent weld. At that stage your never getting a leak.
  18. Nickfromwales
    Get your hose pipe with the spray head on it. Set the spray to shower / mist and shove it down the first bend. Push it in, an inch every minute and that'll spray it top to bottom on each joint. .
  19. Nickfromwales
    If he didn't have "no nails" maybe he'd have hit them with the hammer instead I worked in a new build estate many, many moons ago whilst working for my old ( dick of a ) boss, and the biggest house sold off plan, well in advance. The lady ( reminded me of Hyacinth Buckét ) said she wanted to buy her own kitchen and bathroom suites. A lovely cream and brass ( ???? ) suite for the ensuite arrived and I got to fitting the basin back against the wall. On goes the spirit level, and it was a mil or so out, so without even thinking about it I pick up the claw hammer and turn it to use the butt of the handle ( rubber handle before you judge ) to, ahem, 'tap' the basin into aligmanent. The rubber was missing and the steel shank was exposed....first contact went through both skins of the basin, destroying it in a heartbeat. As I'm juggling the new jigsaw puzzle that used to be a sink, in walks the happy new owner to admire her creamy gold vision of vomit that I had just destroyed. Tbh I put the damn thing out of its misery, wavey shell shapes and all. Yuk.
  20. Nickfromwales
    You'll do well to find anything better than Sikaflex EBT, both as a sealant and an adhesive. Tbh, I'd have done the jointing with it too, but sounds like you've already welded it with the solvent. Squeeze the joints to see if the solvent cracks away from the shiny plastic, if it does, it'll need a secondary seal .
  21. Nickfromwales
    Picture please. I NEED to see how hard you hit your sink with a hammer Upon reflection..........??
  22. Nickfromwales
    I was looking at 6 or 8 oil barrels as a thermal store, built into the ( not quite ) 1000mm gap between my shed and next doors garage. Insulated deck and then bury them in a vermiculite / similar coffin. These to be heated off DIY solar thermal and boosted every time I light my chimnea, ( converted to act as a boiler ). More because I can than anything, with a PHE to provide DHW uplift for my combi boiler. 2026 trials sounds about right. ?
  23. Nickfromwales
    Original house getting kept and rented .
  24. Nickfromwales
    Do you have to worry about copyright if it's one off and not for demo / sale / reproduction?
  25. Nickfromwales
    If that is your bath, the first bend off the bath trap will need support too. Why a bath trap and then an inline trap ? Oh, and just to scratch the itch....what's in the tee?
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