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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Yup. Another 'Dee mini-blog' and not looking too shabby either
  2. I'm good thanks
  3. You don't get those very often. Brings a new meaning to 'water saving device'.
  4. This shot shows the head, then the meter, then the DP fused isolator ( KMF ). 16mm2 tails to those. Then 25mm2 tails leave to go to the CU location 13 metres away .
  5. Whip around the day it's all clad with the insulation, and where the accessories are just rebate some panels of PVA coated OSB3 / similar, bonded in with foam. You could screw them too with some long screws if it were more than a socket etc. Other than that your Donald Ducked. Oh, and not extending the soil pipes is just horrific.
  6. @Grosey Can you update the link in your op as its a removed / deleted item . Thanks.
  7. I will shut my mouth ✌️️
  8. Don't start me off. For your entertainment Ian; I even questioned the spelling and after losing the plot I googled it. ? "Taxi!"
  9. I see the confusion has been in referring to the osb former, as a former, when it's actually a mould.
  10. Carpet fitter was trying to push me out of the way in my house but I insisted on scraping and hoovering every inch of the dusty weyroc. I would have preferred to PVA it all too but it was 3 days before Xmas and I was running behind. .
  11. Can you start a new topic for that when the time comes please Dave Thanks.
  12. Distract him by talking about drainage..........they LOVE drainage. .
  13. Legionella purge would need doing weekly. If you set up a timer for the last hour of E7 then that would stay warm ( hot ) for the morning showers so wouldn't be 'wasted' ( heated high for purging then left to ebb away back to idle temp ). Fact is, with a pv based immersion it's likely that you'd be achieving high enough temps to purge at midday every day, but unless it was logged and automated then you'd still need a failsafe e.g. a timer on grid electric. If you only had a single immersion you could just mount that timer to bridge the pv diverter ( immersun / other ).
  14. Cut them in half and go at 300mm centres. ? ☕️☕️☕️ ?
  15. Fitting a tiger loop, even though you didn't NEED one, is what I'd do if I was on oil. That way the system will self purge from just pressing the lockout button so no more spanners and smelly hands. Plus, much less chance of starting a leak by frequently interrupting the oil line. .
  16. At 2.4, I'd prob go for 5x2" but 6" would be better tbh.
  17. Select the right timber ( roof / floor etc ) at the top of each chart and fill your boots. Link
  18. How much cheaper would insulation be vs deep excavations? .
  19. I'd be shocked if they pulled you over tap type tbh, unless you get a jobsworth. As long as you have a D-C NRV, you should be ok. Have you been given written criteria for the new connection, or are you just picking up on a existing feed and altering it? If the latter then will anyone actually visit / call to inspect it?
  20. Yup. Last one I did they wanted 750mm ! One before that they made me core a 100mm hole through breeze block footings and slide a sleeve through to the ground outside. Theres more sense and reasoning for electric cables than there is for water pipes.
  21. Moral of the story..... "Don't prioritise beer and takeaways over checking and ordering oil"
  22. If you tick the boxes, so..... 1) incoming mains into propery 2) stoptap of whatever guise 3) double check NRV 4) drain off cock ....then I doubt if any BCO would fail you, but the water company may. Can you give details of your supply from the road in please?
  23. Outside taps are 'accessories' to the main, UNLESS you have teed into the incoming main mdpe as it comes up the drive to the house, at which point you would indeed be right to fit stopcocks as they would then be spurs off the rising main. For outgoing supplies AFTER the stopcock you deffo should use 1/4 full bore as @TerryE has done. Click on my profile and you'll see the blue handled one I fitted for attic isolation on an UVC multi-block. Near silent in operation too.
  24. Ok. My question was aimed at if it was a boiler / fire ( aka deadly ) flue, I should have been clearer. . I was just going to give you chapter and verse TBH, like stop denting / damaging it for one, but if it's just a humble extractor duct then it's not an issue. . Much better pic. If we can see the whole 'picture', the advice will be better .
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