Nickfromwales

Bloody foreigners ?

Explain !

I went another route with Mermaid ( after ditching that god-awful bottom trim ) and scribed the panels to the tray exactly, then lowered them into a very generous bead of CT1. Wiped away what displaced with wet wipes and looked great. A cosmetic silicone seal could have been applied if it was suitable but it wasnt in that instance and still looked good with just the CT1 tooled, wiped and finished accordingly.

My favourite is Rocol Gas Seal of all things. Works excellently at lubricating the threads / filling the valleys and is almost completely non-setting. The jet blue / boss white stuff isn't bad TBH, but I don't find it smears as well unless you've put quite a bit on. Always dismount compression stuff after final assembly to remove any excess product from the interval bore of the pipe / fitting or just be VERY sparing when applying.....a little goes a long way

It may be the brass of the fitting is flawed. Double check exactly where it's weeping from before considering a leak sealing product. I've split brass items before, ( a good few times TBH ), by over PTFE'ing them and over tightening. Check this isn't the case.

Yes, it wasn't a dig just an additional statement .

In the eyes of the water authority, here, you cannot fit a pump directly to the main unless it's designed to not pump at or in excess of 11-12 litres per min ( or basically whatever rate your local water board has to supply by law ). With a large domestic property the metabolism of the cold break tanks means that downstream disinfection isn't required. I checked for my last such job, and the only requirement was the A-B bylaw air break from the incoming cold main to the stored water in the tank. The system performs really well with the only problem being excessive use due to the customer thinking that I'd now somehow connected them to the local reservoir and they had an infinite supply of high pressure water. A bit of education later and they were good to go. I don't see how the pressure switch on the mains would work tbh as the second the pump kicked in you'd lose the static pressure ( in the poorest of mains ) switching the pump back off. That would see a stop-start scenario so I'm unsure about that one. The Grunfoss home booster will just keep sucking until it's vessel is satisfied, so that isn't a good example afaic. No home-brew solutions can be used for this, as they have to be approved or comply with current regs / bylaws.

You soon get lazy when you've a series of holes to drill . Best set to mention the need for a recirculating coolant system if your doing any serious work. A can of spray is ok, but leaves you machining single handed, so the automatic coolant systems are worth considering. A cheap and cheerful one here.

I still remember the lecturer in the SWALEC training centre in St Mellons, Cardiff screaming as another fresh 16 year old left the chuck key in the lathe and switched it on. After a few seconds of spooling up to speed you could hear it fly off and whack a few walls and the ceiling before coming to a stop. Worse day was when I left the lever up on the metal folding press and all it took was a fly landing on it to drop the couple of hundred kg anvil back down, flicking the lever like a whip as it went. Caught me right in the chops and nearly took my front teeth out. Looking back I realise just how dangerous the equipment we were 'playing' with was . Nowadays we wouldn't be allowed in the same room as it ! I can't remember why we had a lecture about NOT blowing bubbles ( with the unlit oxyacetylene torch ) in the oil pot used for tempering, but the word explosive rings a bell ? Good times. ?

I wouldn't want a pillar drill without an emergency strike switch at the front to cut the power, if you get tangled up for any reason . A foot operated switch would be a good option but having the cut off inaccessible at the rear would put me off tbh. When geared right down these drills have some serious torque available and won't stop for anything, also very unpleasant when they pick up and spin the vice block ........never let go of that !

On 3/4" I'd use around 26 turns of PTFE, 40 turns would be excessive / of concern.

Resin joint without a doubt. Also, I would never leave an unused / non-terminated supply connected to the breaker, that's just bad practice. If it's for any reasonable duration then you simply disconnect the live from the supply trip, bend it back on itself and zip tie it out of the way.

I filled and tested a full hot cold and heating system today, not pressure tested along the way ONCE, and only one compression joint weeping. Oh, and all copper and soldered joints. Luck or skill you decide, but dry as a bone............"Excellent". ?

Doing that in my neck of the woods will see you getting severely prosecuted. Any builder / other 'well intentioned' putting a cold mains booster pump directly onto the cold mains is just an uneducated If you have poor mains pressure and flow then you won't necessarily use more water per day, it's just you'd like some reasonable performance whilst doing so. For eg, filling the bath takes the same amount, filled quickly or slowly. To achieve this you need the cold main getting fed into break tanks ( so disconnecting the incoming main from consumer consumption ) which a pump then 'sucks' water from. Then you fit a buffer ( usually a cold mains accumulator of suitable size ) to allow the pump to pressurise the accumulator thus creating an artificial cold mains system for the property. As pumps are very harsh in their delivery, usually starting at just above 1 bar and shutting off again at 3 bar, a buffer is required to smooth out the delivery to make it tolerable, and typically the system would be set up to store the pressurised water at around 2.5-3 bar to best take advantage of the accumulator ( charging it with sufficient stored volume vs back / pre-charge pressure ), but this does provide a very good means of boosting very poor mains to acceptable performance without breaking any water bylaws. Dont underestimate the required volume of cold water break tanks as any shortfall there will see the pump running dry or the supplied water getting unacceptably aerated. As always, it's requirement first and design / solution second.

"Fire in the hole!" ??

Does this mean we can't say rude things and fart loudly now? Ola! ?

That looks very similar to what I used as an apprentice. Cleaned at the end of every day with Trichloroethane 111 aerosol spray, ( and that's the last thing you'd remember for 30 mins or so ) Banned now of course. .

You don't get a geared-down drill that way though . Pretty much essential for a pillar drill TBH.

It's down to consumption at the end of the day. A TS for storing excess Pv, backed up with the ashp for 'dark' days would be a good solution, as then you could have your DHW from a coil in said TS. Solar thermal would be pointless and expensive IMO, as it wouldn't give you the high target temps you'd need for a combined heating / DHW TS, but MAY suffice if the TS is for DHW preheat only plus space heating. You'd then need an UVC for DHW, again fed from both the ashp and excess Pv. How many occupants / bathrooms / what's the occupancy etc ?

Meat and BBQ stuff is great. Pan au chocolate's are my weakness. Can't pick one up, got to be 2. Kids love munching the mini pizza jobbies, tres bien.

I thought joe would have been driving the van whilst Brendan was in the back with the chop saw going, cutting wedges as they went. Good to hear there's a reasonably pain free resolve .

Hi Ryan. Welcome to the forum. Good comment and maybe you can post an introduction and give us some background .

In fairness to the window fitters, they've arrived at a built frame and have been asked ( ordained ) to fit the windows in correctly. I strongly doubt they'd have ever thought you'd stop work to 'jack' the corner of your entire new build up to alleviate the error. Attempting to fit the Windows level and square isn't their failing, the error should have been identified WELL before they arrived . Exactly the response a lot of us expected from MBC, so let's watch this space for the feedback.

Jesus. That's not out a bit that's out a lot. Id buy the window guys some beer ASAP, sounds like they're getting stuck in. Fyi you can self level up to 50mm with certain products, but better to use lots of a cheaper 2-part latex to build up in layers as required. Fyi #2 you can also buy self leveller which is flexible so you'd be able to level the chipboard deck also, but does this problem not reside in every room now? .

Get a laser, make a yardstick and you'll know in 10 mins who's dropped a bollock. Update this with more detail once you've attended site please. .