Nickfromwales

Ok, Capt.Skinflint I take it you have a copper hot water cylinder and its gravity fed from a cold water storage tank ( CWS ) in the attic yea? Well, before polishing those shillings you've been keeping hidden away, consider your actions. To add a pump will suck a small hot water tank empty pretty quick, and the minimum standard when upgrading to a pumped system is to increase the 25 gal tank to a 50 gal tank, FOR STARTERS. That's primarily to get the stored volume up to match the new demand, but it's also to stop the water getting low and stirring crap at the bottom of the tank which will then go an d block all your filters and kill either your pump, your new shower, or both. . Then, lol, consider that you'll need to separate the plumbing to the shower from the rest of the system so it can just pump the shower and nothing else. This will involve fitting a Sussex / similar type flange on the top of the hot water cylinder and feeding the pump with that for hot, then you'll also need to fit a new CWS connection and run new pipe week from that to supply cold to the pump too. Simples eh? How long do you need a pukka shower for, and what will be the new system? Combi / UVC / TS / other ?

Nope. The tray goes down and stays down . The trap is called a 'self-cleaning' trap ( which means you can clean it yourself ). This is an Impey linear 2 for eg..... The last shot is the vertical outlet staring down into a 110mm soil bend ( as Impey provision for their trap bodies at 110mm, tres bien ? ). Bingo.

Hi @Jons, and welcome. Member @jamiehamy has done this exact same conversion which is documented well both here and on Ebuild ( our former hideout ) There is a lot of info from the start of the journey and if you ask he may be able to link the EB content ?

I'd use cementitious powder, flexible tile adhesive, not sand and cement. Unless you use a very good priming agent the sand / cement will be hard to get to stick and stay down. Also, the S/C mix will not adhere to the GRP at all, so I reckon you'll get a bit of a 'hollow' fix where the tray can bounce if it's not absolutely flawless in manufacture. Work the tile adhesive into the screed so as to get a good bond and make it slightly wetter than would be preferable so the excess fills the void around the trap when you compress down. Also, you'll need to put a big blob where the trap is going as the MI's for all these types of trays require the trap to he mechanically supported.

What make tray is it mike? The MI's should state the methods of fixing for both solid and floating floors. Ill add add to this in a bit

All working out nicely then

I used to be like the Energizer bunny, but now it's more about pacing myself and not having a heart attack This is where Ian's thread starts to die ( gress ).

Tried that the other night, needed jump leads

Red dial will be the temperature setting

Yup, the last post was not making any sense at all . A multimeter has different settings, one for ohms ( like a horse shoe symbol ) and then you have voltage ( you need AC not DC ) so the 'wavy line' not the flat line . First, as said with the power off, select ohms and take a reading across the red and blue. Then with the power on, select AC volts and do the following in the exact order. DONT FORGET TO SLECT THE CORRECT SETTING EACH TIME YOU USE THE MULTIMETER Place the black probe onto the blue wire and hold it there, making sure your touching the metal probe on the copper wire. Then, place the red probe on the red wire and see what voltage you have. REMOVE THE RED PROBE FIRST AND THEN THE BLACK PROBE OTHEWISE YOU CAN GET ZAPPED BY THE BLACK MULTIMETER PROBE ! What exactly are you going to undo with the socket? I don't think you should proceed any further without touching base here first.

I need a bloody man-shed. Bollocks. Time for another one.

It would tick both boxes, and use less expensive granite. What you see from the underneath is the problem, have you asked about the fixing issue if cladding the underside too? Feasibility etc?

Mira and Triton have excellent after sales so you'll deffo get the bits to fix it. Maybe best to change the sticky valve / part too as your only extending the problem not solving it. .

I only needed 100mm for steels holding 2 storeys of stone and brick up . A 6x4 lintel as a pad only bears 100mm widthways. ?

I think a few binders for the worst affected rafters would be a good idea, and no more.. Try and lay the soil pipe on some 50mm fluffy rockwool to offer some sound deadening to the room underneath. It'll compress down to 5-10mm.

I was going to say, "think yourself lucky", but that wasn't the subject matter I doubt I will ever have the opportunity to build my dream home so find it hard to sympathise. That and of course the fact that I live and breath construction work so am numb to that side of it. If I ever find myself at the standing and staring at it stage, I look around for something peripheral to carry on with, something simple that requires little or no thought, and that gives me time to think about whatever I've got hung up on. A deadline helps, yes, but in a self-builders head there will always reside the fact that they're essentially self employed and can pretty much do what they like, when they like, ( other than say meeting deadlines for the initial build ), so have that essence of relaxation that I'm not afforded. To sharpen the mind, just imagine how you'll look forward to being in the new house rather than look at the tasks which lay in your path. . It'll make them seem less of a trudge and more like stepping stones. . ?

One day this will all be yours ?

This is one of my current jobs. Tiles straight onto MR PB and the trims fitted prior to skimming. I purposely fitted 12mm trims where I could have got away with 10mm, and I set the tiles an extra 2mm off the walls so the skim didn't eat too far into the visible trim. I'll post a pic tomw of the skimmed and painted job, ( one I skimmed myself to make sure the trims didn't get 'dinked' by the trowel ).

? Better to skim the part tiled walls if your not used to spacing the adhesive out to compensate for when it gets skimmed afterwards. Not doing that means the skim covers a good bit of the tile edge trim whereas skimming first sees the trim meeting the skim, so flush and full.

Never, EVER, paint where tiles are going . New plaster gets sized with a 50/50 mix of primer, then a coat of neat primer, then two or three coats of tanking, then tiles. Fyi, with tanked areas, also NEVER use acrylic ( ready made ) tile adhesive. It has to be cementitious, powder adhesive. With painted walls, the water in the adhesive reconstitutes the paint and then the lot just separates and any bond ( purchase ) goes with it. A customer of mine once "helped out" by painting everywhere, including every INCH of the bastard bathroom and the kitchen splash back areas, prior to me turning up to tile......( all of which I then had to scrape back with a Jack saw, at his expense ). Edit to add : tiling directly onto the plasterboard is my favoured method tbh, but I know you've had the place skimmed so I'll keep that to myself

Yup. It's a no brainer. 100mm bearing ( overhang ) each side and Roberts your Mothers Brother. You could quite happily get away with a timber head tbh, it's really doing nowt.

A bit tricky as Daves trying to eliminate areas before boarding. I had a vision in my head of dave running down the road at 20mph holding his house above his head like a kite Swansae air show today, maybe I've got sunstroke . Enjoy the ? ??

Have you been drinking? ??

@Dee If it genuinely is only performing the duty of ceiling rafter, not floor joist, then whack away ma'am. A couple of binders ( timbers to connect upper joists to lower rafters ) will be a belt for the braces, and if the above is correct then the ply is unnecessary.