Nickfromwales

To be perfectly honest a trowel in the hands of a novice will likely make the surface worse, not better . Once you start catching and digging, rather than feathering and flatting it'll soon go Pete Tong. If you get the mix spot on and not too much water you'll be able to get the aggregate to stay submerged, as it's the aggregate surfacing and poking out which is the real pita. Those bits are like, erm, granite, and require chiselling or grinding flat so any investment for a newbie slab layer should be in the mix imo. Id recommend leaving an end of the lay slightly void of mix so where the tamping board stops, you can draw it clear from the slab without it 'sticking'. Just back fill that little defecit with self leveller prior to final floor laying. Alternative, if you can, is to tamp towards a knock through ( door way ) and drag the excess mix back to the cavity void. Bag the void first so any spill can be easily removed when part cured.

Inch ( 25mm ) plywood would be best. Local yard may have a saw and be able to rip it down for you.

You can take more out if you sister each joist with plywood, one each side of each joist. You'd need to fit these the same height as the joists and about 1200mm long. Glued with proper resin based waterproof wood glue, clamped and screwed every 100mm an inch down and inch up ( so two screws at each 100mm interval ) which will replace almost all of the strength in the section you have cut away. Pre cut the plywood according to the notches you've made in the joists . Hanging them off 'binders' as @PeterW suggests will also help with the worst affected ones but not needed all the way if only taking half inch or so out of start / end of the run.

Drumroll please ? Hammers a hammer ain't it? ?

Oh, I see, the trusses are also at 600 centre? Thought for a daft mo that they were bridging them with off cuts to catch 400 centered trusses rather than full pieces spanning the 600. . I'll make another coffee. ? What he said

Who cares if she can cook ! "Dominos Pizza!" Seriously, not worth the effort . Cheap enough here edit to add : not worth blowing your expensive makita batteries up on either

Nope Dulux do a scrubbable Matt called iirc Diamond Matt ( or words to that effect ). Supposed to be the ? bollocks TBH.

Praise the lord! Finally, somewhere to hang both sets of car keys ?

Not if it's only a 100mm long packer . Sounds like a good idea TBH.

Marlboro ? They bloody STINK ? When I worked around the world on cruise liners, I shared a cabin with my mate Luke and he woke and sparked up a Marlboro light like it was religion, and it fackin stank the room out. As we were contractors we got the cheap, small, in-board cabins with no window and minimal a/c. Great.

Have you not thought of using a smoke machine ? Know any local DJ's you could hire one off ? That would show you instantly any further minor leaks, multiples of which would bump your results south . Failing that a can of smoke detector check spray ?

5 mins on the naught step. ?

This is more of a problem with slates rather than with tiles surely?

And what if you don't 'do' Facebook ?

First thing to watch is that the copper around the boss doesn't start to distort. If there is any sign of corrosion then be VERY careful about how you proceed. At that point, applying some heat with a lamp may do you a favour Hitting it round with a dumpy chisel is the last resort but does work ( usually ).

Yup. Best to try and simply reset it first tbh, if it's got a manual reset / overheat trip on it.

You won't tell the difference TBH, plus they'll look darker and lighter than each other even if painted with the same product as they're differing elevations .

Layers on the lock locations, and if you can't get a grinder to the locks you can't grind them. .

The divided sections in Onoffs pics are for dedicated spaces, for the slightly sunken bath and the shower wetroom corner . Laying the slab is indeed in one section in that pic and all slabs, unless huge and requiring expansion breaks, should be poured in one go wherever possible. Timber for the guide rails will work just fine as long as they're relatively straight lengths. You could screw the timbers ( say 7x2" if that's what you'll retain and reuse later for the rafters ) to the outside of the block work with the top of the timber proud by an inch or so. That'll allow you to get it all perfectly flat without worrying about hitting the top of the block work. Simply use another 7x2" as the tamping board with timber 'lugs' added each end to drop the 7x2 to the required depth for the slab. The added be benefit of this method is you can simply lift the tamping board off after laying and smooth out the corners / end with a trowel. Check your levels a good few times before stating the pour and you'll be fine. .

Just order some sheets of 18mm shuttering plywood and screw those on from inside. ? Affix some laminated signs saying "smile, your on camera. Nothing of value left on site" and that's about all you can do. If you leave the site secure then you put off the opportunists, but unless your on a 24/7 vigil the cctv will help little. .

Me and the better half have just polished off two oven baked, mustard topped, camemberts. Served piping hot with two rounds of inch thick farmhouse white bread for dipping in the hot goo inside. Breaking through the baked mustard crust is splendiferous, but second place compared to the profiteroles for desert. Stick a fork in me.....I'm done.

You can't put that in a tin !

FO and die, is it not? Proper cliff-hanger this is ?

Slightly older, but sadly not much wiser There's a lot to like about plug n play. These solutions can soon start to escalate so best to at least try the first possible ( and easier ) option first tbh .

You'll know for the next build