Nickfromwales

What about 35mm 4-core and have a second phase too? Any advantage to that ?

Not at all. I only did that one as Impey allow it by making the outside of the trap body 110mm. If you see the pic looking down it reduces to 40mm . I could have cut the bottom of the trap body so it was fully open, but the discharge rate of that linear drain is already crazy fast.

As this will have to be signed off by a sparky, it won't be down to interpretation, it'll have to be by the book. If the house AND the workshop are on the end of the 100m run, whatever configuration, its going to be a biggy. I'd certainly run at least a second phase up and have the workshop on its own phase so the house lights don't show activity in the workshop. Over that run, and with things running at peak loads I'd fear there would be some noticeable drop otherwise, even with the bigger cable.

The Leyalnd contract stuff is only for obliterating the walls and not any good as a final finish coat . Ok to leave it on the ceilings in every room other than kitchen / bathroom ( where a scrubbable Matt is recommended such as Diamond Matt by Dulux ) as its a very chalky paint used for loading up and rubs off with a wet sponge ridiculously easily. I use it almost as a filler, rubbing down after two heavy coats and then you apply the top / final coat or colour coat over those two 'mist' coats. Works incredibly well this way and covers new plaster amazingly quickly, even on the first coat. Don't be shy with it that's all or it ends up very rough.

Not any hotter than a copper fitting, but you do start gently heating the brass instead of the copper and slowly let the heat transfer through. When the flux starts to fizz and evaporate at the brass / copper junction, that's when it's time to add a bit more flux and start soldering. The trick is to have the lot made up prior to soldering and the pipe running downhill towards the brass backplate, that way you get the solder saturating the joint before welling up and spilling out. It also allows you to look inside the brass fitting and see that there is a solder ring / puddle forming, for reassurance that the joint is fully saturated. You can get these end feed as well as compression, but tbh they both solder up the same so I just crack on with whatever one ive got to hand.

Sorry @jamiehamy , only now seeing this. . How do you intend supporting these if you use the connector shown ? I use 1/2" brass backplates for this. Latest one..... As this is all that's supporting the handset outlet doo-dah I always fit backplates so there's a means to fix them mechanically. Dont know if you've sorted it by now though ? ( Stick my username into these posts so I get a ping ?? )

Running 3 x 70mm SWA singles or 1 x 70mm 3-core SWA doesn't really make any difference to the price. Still around £1500.00 One example for 3 core And singles

Won't 2 cable runs be more money? Plus 2 switched fused isolators too to separate the two different rated cables ? One big cable to the house, or if the garage is significantly closer, go there first for the new meter location and then onto the house so you don't have such a big incomes going into the house. 100m is a long old run, so get the chequebook ready

Mix a bucket of S&C and another with flexible tile adhesive. Push your left and right hands, one into each bucket, and pull them back out. Then decide .

Tidy. ? Sunday is meausure up day to see where it fits without too much butchery. Cheers.

The hondas are very highly sought after in the used market. Push button just takes all the fun out.....next thing you'll tell me it ticks over whilst emptying the grass box too.....?

And warmer underfoot than tiling .

Just going to blatantly hijack this thread. This velux says 2 ventilation 'points'. Anyone know if they're still rainproof on the first 'click' ? Want to fit one in the attic I did for my boy last Xmas. Haven't got room for a bigger one as the perlins are still there and it's not a very high roof / tall room . I don't want the pivot type as it'll likely end up in the stairwell at the top of the stairs as the perlins are cut out there. Ideally I'd want a smaller window, anyone know where I'd get smaller without a big budget?

I wouldn't have decking if it was free. Can't stand the stuff. Slippery, maintenance hungry, and takes a lot to keep looking even half decent. ?

How the other half live

Has anyone brought you up to speed with the buildhub T&C's yet ? Anyone from EB has to buy a drink for each member of BH. Its the law Welcome 'back'. .

Another here

Prob because some don't have the extra space available ? At least the manufacturer of this foil isn't trying to palm it off as something it isn't . They clearly state the use of it in conjunction to an already insulated surface, or stand alone, so folk can decide for themselves. Would this not also form a vapour barrier, thus killing two birds with one stone ?

When you get weathertight, I've a work-shed for you to practice your skills on. The joinery looks absolutely spot on. 74?!? Shake his hand for me will you. ??

Light at the end of the tunnel now though .

Yup..........IF, Mowed mine the other day, emptied the bloody thing about 9 times. I bought a second hand self propelled petrol mower from the local mower repair guy for £100. 149cc B&S 4-stroke engine. 3-4 years out of it before it needed a £50 service and it's still going. Will need the clutch looking at next year so maybe I'll just get another, better used one.

I've seen that stuff but tbh I've never used it. I favour setting the tray into wet Sikaflex, pressing it into place to displace the excess, and then tooling the excess to form the upstand as shown in the previous pics. That also fills and seals any gaps between the tray and the wall and provides a good mechanical fix. I'm not sure I like anything stopping me from bonding / securing the actual tray to the surrounding walls, whereas the self adhesive on that strip is what your then relying on to do this and I'm not sure how well that would perform. Ok on a concrete floor with solid walls where bonding the tray to the floor would suffice, but where there's this amount of flexibility ( caravan ) I'd prefer it continuously sealed / bonded all round so it all 'moves' as one.

If you're doing the upstand as I show above and fitting wet-wall panels then there is no need to tank IMO. The only place you need to be careful is where there is a penetration through the panel, eg for the shower valve / soap basket / screw holes for shower screen etc which need to be pumped full of sealant to ensure water cannot get through / behind. That needs a generous, continuous ring of sealant to be applied on the wall at ( and as close to as possible ) each penetration, immediately prior to fitting the panels, so if water gets in it can't go anywhere. Basically when you push the panel against the wall for final fix, the sealant should be squeezed tight between the wall and the panel and the excess sealant then oozes out of the hole, displaced during the fitting of the panel. Any excess gets wiped away with cheapo baby wipes to seal the deal. Make sure you use a timber straight edge to press against the panels so you don't get 'dents' where you're pushing the panels home, and you also need to particularly fussy to ensure that where the panels end they're nice and flat, so the edge trims and shower door profile fits snug with no undulations. Do all of these checks whilst the goop of choice is still wet. Sikaflex is particularly good in this instance due to its excellent flexibility and lack of degradation. As its a caravan, what is the wall covering, and will the pipes be hidden in the wall or surface mounted? Also, have you read both mine and Jeremy's snippets regarding not fitting the panel manufacturers supplied trims at the bottom of the panels?

Oh, and I've been painting with oil based paint all day, my bad ?