Nickfromwales

I'd buy a 1x 150 and 2x 100. I've just done one at 120m and it's not a one man job. . 300m even I wouldn't attempt without the decoiler.

You've never seen a 300m roll of UFH pipe have you Youll need a pipe decoiler or a friend with REALLY long arms

Pex al pex for me every time. Much much more robust plus it has memory, so when you manipulate / bend it, it stays there . Pert is ok if your in spreader plates I suppose but it has no attraction for me.

Yes to all in the previous post. Read about @JSHarris heating controls in his blog. He uses a simple room stat that has a 0.1oC hysteresis which works well. You do need G3 when you pressurise a hot water cylinder, but you'll get less losses over time plus no header ( F&E ) tank. As the F&E setup will continuously expand and evaporate it takes in fresh water. That means you'll have to keep the inhibitor level monitored and top up more frequently. Other than that there's no real downfall, but I do think it's a step backward TBH, and who wants a header tank these days ? That's the more common solution, and the uvc can be stored at lower temp too compared to the TS so far less latent ( waste ) heat loss.

You'll struggle to find a better deal than Telford. Stainless steel and iirc a 10 year warranty on the TS's. Ufh pump will pull on its own. And yes to the 2-port ZV. Yes, yes and yes. If you're really worried about flow go for the 46kw 28mm coil and TMV. Tbh, I had a 400L running the smaller 22mm coil and it was running 2 showers simultaneously whilst still being able to draw hot off at the kitchen sink / washbasins etc. The cylinder manufacturers will put them where they need to go automatically. Yup. One for Pv and the other / both for peak DHW boost.

Not really necessary if you fit a magnetic filter on the return of the boiler, and maintain the correct dilution of corrosion inhibitor. This should be reflective of the number of spaces making up a zone. A zone can have multiple Ufh loops heating it, for eg an open space kitchen diner could have 4 Ufh loops but only be controlled by a single thermostat. That thermostat would open and close those 4 of the manifold actuators in unison to govern the room temp. Most important would be making sure they're not in direct sunlight or in any draught. A sealed system would require G3, so yes, going open pipe ( vented ) would negate that. You don't need to have an open system and you will suffer a lot more conviction / evaporation heat loss with a TS that's connected to an f&e tank and its associated pipework. It will self - maintain though, and never need any 'topping up' manually as you have to do when sealed and pressurised. Yes. The last heat-only I did was a Vaillant 4-series. Cracking bit of kit.

? 'word'. Ive got 4, fill your boots .

Fast arse, loads of kids ? Simples . Hi and welcome .

It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it . Thanks very much for the update .

Taped and tile adhesive over the top. Last minute bolt on for the customer. . Oh, hang on, no. The LEDS are the last minute bolt on We're talking two 800mm long strips max. The RGB leds aroubd the rest of the kitchen will be powered from the controller and fed down purpose installed 4-core flex, so I want to tee off that 4 core and fire the already colour changing output down to the two remote strips. POE solution would get me dumb power there, but I need to convey the active voltage / pattern AFTER the power supply and controller has generated it.

Mix some rapid set flexible adhesive to a slump free consistency and smooth over the cables with a grout float. Make a plywood square 50mm bigger all round than the waste and use that as a shutter to stop you getting adhesive anywhere near the gulley and screws. When the adhesive is hard, eg after an hour or so, if its rapid, use an off cut of wood as a scraper to remove any high points.

Just need to cut into it so POE shouldn't come into it. It's just connected to the customers virgin / sky router so I was hoping there would be some dead / redundant pairs.

Ok, don't shout. Cat 6 cable already installed going to a kitchen island. It feeds 1xcat5 data point. Would it be, setting aside perfection for a moment, possible to use the non data pairs of a cat6 data cable to power 2 short pieces of RGB LED strips? How many of the 4 pairs are actually servicing the data point? If it's 2 pairs, then are the other 2 pairs redundant? 1 pair leaving 3 redundant? This is with a view to cutting, splicing and hijacking the cat 6 under the island, and doing the same 1.8m away at the plinth where it reemerges, but still retaining the use of data and the cat5 outlet as normal. Its low voltage so no legal infringements as far as i can see? Ill get my tin hat polished. TIA

I'd go with that if changing it isn't an option. There aren't any nice rubber washers with those grey setups, just the nasty nylon type which compress less than a gnats hair .

I did actually LOVE the old Dewalt stuff, then they brought out the stinking XRP stuff which failed time after time, so I jumped ship to makita. I probably would have bought the Dewalt router tbh, but on the day I walked in to buy one the sales guy offered me the makita with a £140 off retail as they weren't showing as stock and I could buy it for cash. Sold. Ifs been a very good machine and I'd challenge anyone to fault it in comparison to its counterparts, new and old. I did buy the Dewalt DWS780xps chop saw though, and that's one hell of a saw. I'll probably buy the cordless makita 1/4" router though, as that feels temptingly nice in the hand

Close, but no cigar . The beast ?

It's near impossible to see the slight offs when you lay the two pre cut ( slightly oversized ) pieces across the junction. Nobodys mentioned a digital angle finder yet .

I'll update this tomorrow regarding the cylinder type / size ? I have a feeling the WBosch may be overly expensive . Fyi 200L is WAY too small for your house. 250L would be the absolute minimum and I'd say you'd need at least 300L as the system should be able to match the simultaneous use of the showers in all the bathrooms at the least. Some folk here have economised their systems to suit their use of DHW and the fact they'll be staying there for the rest of their days, which is fine, but I believe systems should be designed to suit the property where there are multiple bathrooms etc.

The most likely reason your architect has put the cylinder upstairs is because you have an airing cupboard there and traditionally people like to have heat in there to 'air' their clothes, but more importantly it'll be central of the bathrooms ( and closer to the places you most often need hot water ) so there is less delay in getting hot water to the taps / showers etc. The only downside is it'll be further away from the kitchen sink which will result in a delay getting hot water to it. A good system design will reduce the hot water pipework lengths to a minimum by moving the cylinder accordingly, but you could put the cylinder anywhere to be honest and fit a hot water circulation pump, commonly referred to as a 'hot return circuit' ( HRC ), which negates the problem of having the cylinder further away by circulating the hot water stored in the cylinder between it and the furthest outlets away from it. That's a neat idea IMO, and gives near instant hot water to each outlet, but looking at the layout of your house you probably could get away without one if you were happy to have the cylinder in the utility room. In my opinin you'd be better off not having the cylinder upstairs, use the utility space for plant room, and have the upstairs cupboard for clothes / linen storage, with a tiny radiator if you want a bit of heat in there. You can't get away from running pipework, wherever you put it, as you'll need to get heated water from the boiler to the cylinder to heat it up. The sweet spot is working out where it'll have the least losses / wasted hot water ( long hot water runs should be avoided if not having a HRC ) but if the cylinder goes into the utility room only the master bathroom will 'suffer'. Worcester Bosch do a new rang of hot water cylinders which I believe have very high heat recovery coils for super fast heat up times, but I'll have to look at those closely before commenting as I've no experience or knowledge of them at the moment other than a breif read here and there. Do you know the make / model / type of cylinder that has been recommended? After dealing with hot water, you need to check you've got sufficient cold mains pressure and flow to make everything work . Have you done a survey of the cold mains supply yet? Litres per minute flow and static pressure, and do you know the size of the cold mains supply pipe that feeds the house ?

I've recently done a conversion re-using a Baxi 40kw combi to heat a 400L thermal store, ( the TS is for DHW only ), and also 26 radiators. The radiators serve a big 7 bedroom 4 bathroom house. The guy who's told you the 40kw combi boiler does 32kw to heating is right, but why would anyone recommend a combi and a hot water cylinder ? I only did the above as some dickhead told the customer to buy a combi for 7 bed / 4 bathrooms so we reused the new boiler to save buying a system boiler. We would not have done this by design. As you have Ufh there is plenty of scope for a W-plan ( DHW priority ) system, utilising a system boiler. Basically you can get away with a smaller boiler as it only does either DHW OR space heating, but never the two at the same time. If DHW gets drawn off whilst the heating is running to a point where it needs to recharge, the cylinder thermostat takes priority and the boiler stops heating the Ufh and jumps across to reheat the cylinder at full speed, then, when the cylinder is hot again, the system reverts back to providing space heating. With radiators you would notice the heating has stopped serving them after a short while, but with Ufh he slab will retain heat and you'll never notice the change. So basically all you need is a 30-35kw boiler ( max ) and a DHW cylinder sized according to your DHW needs. Edited to add : The only reason for that size boiler is to heat the DHW cylinder quickly which you need with W-plan . . You could probably get away without w-plan tbh, if you size the DHW cylinder correctly. 250L is too small for your house afaic, so I'd go for 300L minimum.

Just make sure the screed has fibres in it for the expansion and contraction .

Shitzen!

It just helps to have a decent emitter TBH.

Back in that era there was some VERY poor quality copper tube around, some very thin stuff with red ink markings along its length. Where it was in contact with mortar etc it literally perforated like a teabag and fell apart when you went to cut it. .

In defence of copper, anywhere where copper pipe is sent through a masonry wall or concrete / cemented floor it should be protected sufficiently from coming into contact with its surroundings. Sleeving the pipe when going through walls and double wrapped in gaffs tape for floors is the norm for me,