Nickfromwales

Which valves have you got guys? There are many. Model & type please .

Just saw him and got a cheeky photo

The DNO should sheath the first few metres for free.? Still wouldn't go near them. 415 for that guy will be the last 'stroke' he has ?

After the meter it's you and your GSRd fitters responsibility ?

Plenty good enough ?

A ready built house would have a lot of cut corners, hidden from sight, and you'd have most of these issues to resolve AFTER you've bought it, and you'd likely have paid more for a worse final product. Chin up, and put a smile back on your face. Many people would cut their right arm off to be able to build their own home . Leveling your floor is easy to do as it's being tiled, up to say 6-7mm undulating, and any more than that just needs spot levelling as they go. Have the tilers stated that you need to decouple ? Is the slab screed or concrete ? Re-bar / fibres ? Sorry if you already stated this elsewhere.

That's the kind of plasterer you want .

There have been few spreads that leave the opposite walls clean enough not to have to sand ( lightly ) the internal corners where they've gone wet on dry with the sets. Best way to judge is to slowly run your hand flat down each wall where the internal corners meet and see if you feel any slop from the spread wet brushing the corners during polishing up. Some are that good that all the slop gets taken off with the back of the trowel as they're going , but not many.

A little bit heavy when you add vat and delivery. Whats the warranty like on the cylinders ?

Totally pointless and will genuinely will do nothing for getting the floor flat. Ditra is for decoupling, and if you don think you'll need it then do away with the extra adhesive needed to bed it down, labour and matting costs. Fyi Ditra is just a fluffy plastic sheet with castellations pressed into it, so will simply follow any undulations rather than bridge them or level them out. ?

He was right to do so. Anyone who's fitting such conduit / ducting for gas needs to have the GSR'd fitter come out and see / inspect it all before its buried. They simply won't take any chances with gas, I would have got the duct in, and then got the GSR'd fitter to come and pull a length of trac pipe in and cap it both ends, ready for connecting later in the build. You must get them involved sooner or itll be back to the drawing board when they are finally called to connect and commission.

Wow, your plasterer has polished the shit out of that, it's like a mirror. I'd start by getting a fine sanding block, NOT loose paper in your hand as you'll scratch lines in, and take a bit of that sheen off. Painting over super polished skim is a pita and it doesn't take the first coat very well. Nothing crazy, just a good sweep over the surface like your waving the MIL goodbye after a 3 week long visit. . The best roller will be the one you can't buy, cos it's in the decorators van and has more miles on it than a taxi A good Harris roller with a medium pile will be your friend for the first two coats ( obliteration / mist ) and then a finer pile for laying on the finishes. 9" roller working quickly in small areas ( as the paint will dry in front of your eyes on rubbed, new plaster ) for the first two, and then onto a 12" roller for the finishes. Remember the finishes will be better quality paint so don't judge how the high-opacity ( HO ) stuff goes on as the rule of thumb for the finishes. The first coat of HO paint will dry quickly. By the time you get to the end of one wall, it'll be ready to go over again, so basically you'll be two-coating each wall in the same day if you get a groove on. That cheeky two-coaster gets rubbed down the next day quite heavily to remove the first roller marks, and any other bits of plaster or other surfaces grot. Don't worry about sanding through the paint, but, tbh, looking at the skim I doubt if you'll have much to do, it looks like a good spread laid that. After sanding, apply another coat of HO and leave to dry. Lightly sand that back and your then ready for the finish coats / colour. Spend money on a good quality finish paint and you'll get better results. Oh, and don't water down the HO stuff, trust me. When you coat the skim for the first time you won't believe how well it's covered even with just one coat. Don't try to get it covered uniformly on the first coat as it'll go a bit patchy here and there where the skim has been polished, which you'll see as you go along. Wait until the following morning to judge it, when the new paint isn't so opaque, and you'll be pleased with the results. Leyland HO brilliant white from B&Q ( look for the 20% extra free tubs ) and lots of it. ?. Oh, and the best painting tips come from those who HATE painting, i.e. ME! Cutting-in brush needs to be a 3" chiselled one, don't use anything smaller unless it's the nooks and crannies. This is the kiddy

And keep its age / wear at bay. Take the credit damn it!!!!!!

I'd recommend wetting the joint, say a metre at a time, and fill it as your go before it dries out. It'll help th filler to key to the FC and don't forget to force it in with some welly. Apply the filler once from left to right, scrape and reapply from right to left so as to fully saturate the gap and get good adhesion both sides. Don't leave too much excess on either. Toupret self primes . Another part of the process removed = more time swigging ale. ??

And is a pita to sand back. Bearing in mind you don't want to work too hard removing it and risk marking the face of the FC. .

I'd use Toupret filler. No need the prime, and it's really good stuff. Potato

Looks great with a splash of paint. Makes it look bigger when it's nice and bright. You must be happy with what you've done so far, you could pass for a professional

Thanks.

Iirc @JSHarris posted a spreadsheet for this. He'll reply shortly. Im a little less refined and use 'plumbers eye' for most of my specifying. I'm never far out TBH, but usually over rather than under. "You can turn a big boiler down but you can't turn a small boiler up" etc. ?

Glad to hear your not bitter ??

You need to calculate your delta flow temp and then work out your ventilation and fabric heat losses. From there you will know your 'idle' kw requirement ( when the house is at ambient and just being maintained as so ) and then see if that's = to or lesser than the lowest output of your chosen boiler. The likelihood is it will be less than the boiler can efficiently produce which means it'll modulate the output down and live under the condensing threshold aka at a quite reduced efficiency. To combat that and get maximum efficiency you ideally want the boiler to come on at a higher temp and pulse heat into a thermal battery ( buffer ) to store the produced heat energy ready for the UFH to consume it as required. Running the UFH directly from the boiler would see it short-cycling a lot and that's not a good design. For my curiosity, why LPG when you could have an ASHP ?

Nice kitchen ?

I wouldn't say best, but a hell of a lot easier.

If you have an ASHP it'll also become white goods and power diverted into that will offset your space heating a little too. There is only so much you can squeeze out of pv, but it's so much better than ST imo.

Can we have a pic of what you have already got and what you've bought . A lot of uncertainty here at the moment of thermostat vs element. An immersion is made up from both.