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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Great to hear the advice has had a practical and helpful outcome ? A Willis heater ( or a bank of them ) would also have provided at least some 'chill removal' so anyone who cannot convert a natural gas boiler to LPG could still link an all electric temporary heat source if so needed. Dont you you feel claustrophobic in that tiny house ? ?
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Be careful not to gouge it . I think you'd be better off mechanically abrading the floor once dry as you'll have a laitance to remove before bondong anything to it, plus a good douse with a quality flexible primer. Id hire an upright machine and buff the floor once dry. The stuff your able to scrape is probably the problematic laitance layer . Needs to be completely removed before bonding.
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Need a replacement to O2 s TU WiFi call app
Nickfromwales replied to ProDave's topic in Boffin's Corner
Have you rung your network provider for a repeater / booster ? I rang EE and told them I was leaving them as I couldn't get a signal in our stone house. The guy offered me a free box that plugs into the BB router and away to go. It should have been £100 but they "kindly" waived that ( which I told them was a good idea as I wasn't parting with any more cash, so if it wasn't free I wasn't staying ). Went from having to stand by the doors or windows to make / answer a call to 5 bars of 3G throughout the house, 4 in the attic. It drops out every now and then but generally works very well. -
Most towel rad heaters have an on board switch or heat control and UFH has a standby so both will still be able to be knocked on / off individually.
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Sorry, I meant it ( the idea )originated there.
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? 600w / 230 volt = 2.61 amps. A 5 amp fuse is plenty, but you could try a 3 amp first ?
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Absolutely. I do things like that to reduce clutter as you say and as long as you accept the reduced redundancy then fill your boots cariad.
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That was me doubting, aka squeezing a doublé entendres out of it ( on the other, "now reduced" thread ) . My talents are wasted lol. Now, back to your dubious conduit porn ??
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How many loans before a pool becomes "exhausted" eg each person has maxed out their comfort amount. I think to be fair this was initially raised to help poor old @ProDave out, so let's stay focussed on that as there's nothing worse than feeling that hope was within reach but then fizzled out in the peripheral white noise.
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1) Agree an amount to lend 2) You state that the repayment need to be a min of 2 years / max of 5 years 3) You state any interest / fees / terms and agree the settlement amount. 4) You exchange emails stating the outlines of the agreement and each agree by return. 5) As its unregulated you hand over the ?and it's done afaics? There can't really be any more to it if it's on trust. ?
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Hi and welcome @Simon Dave Please use the "Introduce yourself" section to tell us a bit about yourself and your project . Regards, nick.
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And again, this forum shines brightly. To quote @ProDave, "this is more than just a forum". This is an extraordinary example of that.
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Relax dave, I think the clue is in the reference to "lending", based on people's knowledge of you, your character and your known future worth. Im quite intrigued by this concept TBH, just as I am with this Bitcoin business. I believe this indeed refers to the money being loaned.
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How to add pump overrun delay?
Nickfromwales replied to richi's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
In your situation that's exactly why it there. Remeber though that my comments here are case specific to @richi's setup -
How to add pump overrun delay?
Nickfromwales replied to richi's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
No. that's there to protect the pump in a sealed system boiler typically. It will only open if say you turn the heating on and every radiator valve has inadvertently been shut, and the hot tank is satisfied. That arrangement would not use a PoR. If the automatic bypass were used for heat dissipation it wouldn't be very good as it would just circulate the very hot water back around the primary HEx, and you'd then be solely reliant on the latent loss of that and the short connective pipewort to dissipate the heat. ? That all depends, of course, where the pump is, as the pump protective bypass valve needs to be at the pump or before any downstream control valves. Thats the reason you always see these true setups with 1 x 3-port mid-position valves rather than 2 x 2-port ZV's as in the de-energised / park state a 3-port MPV always leaves a fully open path to the heating circuit so the pump overrun only needs to control the pump ( as opposed to the complex solutions first discussed here ). Proper heat loss PoR setups are designed to draw cool water back into the boiler to be effective. With gravity it needs to work in the event of a power failure, hence my further suggestion ( above ) of a normally open ZV on the DHW circuit ? -
How to add pump overrun delay?
Nickfromwales replied to richi's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
My head is up my arse at the mo with work, so I'll nudge this later, but this could be simplified and a bit safer with a ZV that is 'normally open' eg energised to close for the DHW ZV. -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Keep the faith . He will finish it before I put the last 6 tiles on my bath panel . 3rd year this Xmas. God I need a few days off, ( but no work no cash ) ? -
How to add pump overrun delay?
Nickfromwales replied to richi's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
The heat in any boiler always goes to the PRIMARY HEx ( what the burned fuel actually heats ) and then from there if it's a combi it gets diverted to the plate / secondary ( DHW ) HEx. The oil boiler here will be treated as a heat only / open pipe setup as the huge amount of residual heat in an oil boilers HEx needs to be dissipated after the flame is extinguished. Every oil boiler you buy these days has a pump control terminal on the PCB which fires the pump and does PoR, likewise with any modern system or heat only unit. It's infinitely more problematic with oil and more again with an old oil boiler as it'll likely have a manual resettable high limit stat. If left to boil, then cool, with no PoR, inevitably that safety device will nuisance trigger. -
I have to ask, with P2P lending in particular, what's the security based on ? Tbh I never knew such a thing existed, other than "loan sharks" of course. Tis a diverse place this .
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
If it's cosher, and you don't want it..... -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
"No need to squeeze them out ever again" for eg ? -
How to add pump overrun delay?
Nickfromwales replied to richi's topic in Central Heating (Radiators)
You will still need a pump overrun ( PoR ) with that setup as it's a heat only boiler When the cylinder is hot the DHW ZV will be shut, and when the demand for heating is lifted that ZV will shut too, therefore creating a sealed loop where residual heat in the exchanger will be free to boil and knock the OH stat out. Any arrangement with PoR needs a path to a heat loss circuit ( which EVER that is ) which is open in the standby state or worse a power failure. Ok. Assuming the hot tank is staying as is long term and is still plumbed in and remains in commission. What I'd do ( as a long term / end solution ) is do the 2 x 2-port ZV's so you you have an s-plan, and energise the DHW valve from the 'heating off' terminal in the time-clock. NOTE : 28mm ZV on the hot circuit if it's 28mm pipe So, when the heating runs, the DHW ZV shuts ( from stored energy ) as it de-energises, and the heating runs through the heating ZV as per normal. When the heating demand is removed the heating ZV will close and the DHW ZV will open ( these will operate nigh on simultaneously so you'll never get a closed circuit as far as the pump circulation is concerned ) and and residual heat will then be free to naturally ebb away via the gravity circuit to the tank. The return water in the DHW gravity loop will be ambient ( cool / cold ) so will cool the boiler down nice and quick. As for normal DHW production, when you recommission to use DHW again, you just leave as-is but then connect the power for the DHW ZV to a simple timeclock for timed DHW. A nice side effect of this is you get to have a gravity DHW system but retain the option of having the DHW off whilst running the heating. It would need a tweak to the wiring to achieve that. No complex timers / non-standard controls too so ongoing maintenance / repairs are easy. -
Wall hung WC with horizontal outlet - possible?
Nickfromwales replied to JIH's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
That's a good idea, seeing as there's rear access. I'm glad I inspire you to come up with these ideas
