Nickfromwales

The heat exchanger is man enough to cope with the broken down particulate TBH, plus any existing crud in the HE will be broken down and made waterborne, hence the month of cycling prior to a full drain down, and refill with fresh inhibited water. Fitting the filter whilst fitting the pump would work, just you'd have to clean it every other day whilst the X800 does its thing. I'd run with the sludge remover first and fit the filter when it's empty from the second drain down after the X800 is spent.

X400 cleaner is for newer systems. I'd treat it with X800 sludge remover and leave that in for a month before draining, refilling and running for 48 hrs, then drain out and refill with 2x X100 inhibitors. It does sound like the pump is ( ahem ) shagged. ?? 8 years old for boiler AND rads? That's not old enough for the rads to be blocked with corrosion imo, but if never treated with inhibitor it's possible that they've furred up enough to warrant the X800 treatment. Drain down, chuck a new pump in and add the X800 when you refill. I'd also change the pump isolation valves at the same time as they will likely leak if you try to use them now. I always do that when drained down TBH as the buggers always leak soon afterwards and call-backs are a pita.

Your doing what ? Compression onto plastic is a no-no afaic. ?? Yup Hepworth is king. John Guest Speedfit is less than great IMO, and I still can't understand why they made a fitting you can twist and undo . ?

What type of boiler? Open pipe with a tank in the attic or sealed and pressurised ( aka system boiler ) with a filling loop and pressure gauge ? If the former, any pics of the plumbing by the pump so I can see if there's a bypass valve you can shut for testing? Dont pull the pins of the TRV's up too hard or you'll be needing wellies . They do come out with not much effort. ( and they don't go back in ask me how I found that out ).

It may be a good idea to have two TMV's and two pumps, one setup for each radiator circuit so you can choose a higher temp for the cooler original part of the house and a lower temp for the new area. Either that, or run one TMV for the rads, set a lot higher to satisfy the cooler area, and then downsize the new rads to give off less heat for the same temp. Balancing the heat delivery off one rad TMV may be a bit crude. Sketch to follow tomorrow eve, what do you need to know about the controls ? What make / model is the boiler ( so I can see if it needs to do pump overrun ) ?

Off the combi you need the 22mm flow going into 3 tees, one to a zone valve for heating, one for the zone valve for Ufh, and the third for an automatic bypass valve ( ABP ) so the boiler can recirculate back on itself. Room stat to the rad ZV brown wire, second room stat to the Ufh ZV brown wire. Boiler LS ( 'live send' on the WB iirc ) to both orange ZV wires, and both grey ZV wires to LR ( 'live return' ). The brown wire of the Ufh ZV also supplies the manifold pump. The stat tells the ZV to open instead of telling the boiler to fire. The ZV tells the boiler to fire so the boiler pump won't start spinning until the ZV is fully open and there is an open waterway. As the boiler will do pump overrun, after the stats stop calling for heat / get switched off, you will need the ABP to allow the boiler pump to continue to spin ( against both shut ZV's ) back on itself to the boiler during those 2 mins or so of overrun. Oh, and get a buffer , your boiler will HATE this setup, but it'll work. You need the pump on the manifold as the pump needs to pull hot water THROUGH the TMV according to the demand of the Ufh. You can't push water through the TMV with the boiler pump, it just won't work. You could effectively do away with the boiler pump, but you can't as its needed for DHW and the rads so forget that plan . Look at the Ufh circuit as a figure of 8. The first loop circulates hot water from the boiler, last the TMV, and back to the boiler return. As the TMV opens to heat the Ufh loops to a much lower temp, the manifold pump pulls hot water into the other side of the circuit ( the Ufh pipe loops ) and allows cooled return water to be transferred back to the boiler to be reheated. The TMV retains some of the spent / cooler water form the Ufh loops to blend with the boiler hot to maintain the lower TMV set temp. What model / age is the boiler? I hope it's a modern one that can modulate . Oh, and get a buffer , your boiler will HATE this setup, but it'll work.

How much for that pump and blender set please?

Have you already provisioned to have a shower over the bath? I.e. you won't need to chop the pipework in later? Ive thought about it and the only real solution is vertical 8x2's and buy enough the re-clad the bath corner ( 700x1700 ) area as and when. Itll cost far less than a full remodel so just swallow the cost of the spare panels and chuck £5 a week on the rent to cover it

How old are the rads Dee? Quick test, turn each trv down to zero bar one of the troublesome rads. See if that heats through. It could just be the pump.

Return for the buffer seems to tee back into the boiler flow? TMV for the rads has to have the flow and the return tappings from the buffer connected to it. Return tees off to pick up the 'cold' port of the TMV and then carries on to be the group return of all the rads, with rads flow coming from the 'mix' port of the TMV via the pump. Components are in order just the plumbing of flow / return aren't schematically correct. Getting close though If your struggling I'll sketch something later. Is the existing part draughty / poorly insulted or have you beefed things up there ?

No sorry, posting and working ? Fit them vertically and just buy enough spares to remove the bath footprint worth of u/s panels and then fit the tray and wrap in the spare panels.

Why not go to a system that uses 8'x2' ( 2.4x0.6m ) panels and just buy some spares to bury up the attic. ? Can't really think of another long term cost effective solution other than TBH .

You could just fit an L trim between the bath and the panel for a seal, but then you'd have to rely on the silicone seal to hold the bath in place as you wouldn't then want to fix the bath against the wall as it would make holes in the panel. I'd say fruitless endeavour TBH. Sorry.

Don't ever lose a hamster in the house mate, it'll be years before it resurfaces

Where's the contamination coming from that warrants the filter ? What metal components are there in the wet circuit ? I think these two are handing you your ass on a plate TBH, not just on the rates but with a guesstimate of what's ACTUALLY wrong. Even with a low dilution of inhibitor 5 years is crazy for someone to suggest it's contaminated imo. And £1000+ every 5 years? You'd have been better off on LPG The rates aren't crazy for what they are but 2 guys to fit a bloody filter ? Close the isolations and chop the pipe, in with the filter, purge and away to go. Hour for one guy max. You can dose it yourself with a hozelock bottle. Are you up for tackling any of this yourself ? We can advise through pics etc.

13 years our Dyson ball upright lasted. Wife would have had another if I didn't drop a log when I saw the price of it's successor ?????

Hi @joycey and welcome. Read the various blogs. . TF with nice thick ( and graveyard silent to live in ) walls, pumped full of cellulose insulation if I ever build. . Concrete will not necessarily suppress or attenuate noise levels but the one TF MBC build I visited was silent, even with a primary school playground next door. Measure thrice, ask twice, build once ?

Avoid 'sequential' concentric like the plague. There is no speed / flow control just 100% full on at max flow available and then you dial further around to go from cold to hot. You can cap it with a flow restrictor but it's a pita. Quick Ebay grab : Complete kit Ones I just fitted Same makes available in round head.

Get a thermostatic bar mixer like one of these. Looks great, cheap enough to be disposable, 10 year warranty and can be interchanged with any like bar mixer later down the line. TBH at that price I'd buy two and have one for spares, claiming on the warranty of the broken one whilst you've still got happy tenants showering under the spare At any price / any manufacturer you'll still need the emergency one as you've not got a bath as backup. ?

£66 reconditioned here with free postage. Cheaper than shoplifting. ?

It's ok, I've worked it out now. Sell them and move house immediately

Put the pipe cutter on and grip the front of the pipe with pliers or side cutters For any remaining exposed copper use this and just cut it to size. ? Edit to add : can we have a pic when done please ? ?

@JSHarris I have a mint condition Henry up for cheap. Do you want it?

You can push for one in 10 down here. Rule of thumb as I understand it is each single self contained dwelling should provide a minimum of one SVP to atmosphere to ventilate gasses from the public sewerage system. It's nothing to do with what's going on IN the dwelling and isn't required to assist in any 'plumbing' functionality. Thats the reason why you can petition them on the one in 5 / 10 rule, HOWEVER, if your house is at the end of the run, eg the public sewer terminates at your house rather than traverses or passes it then you'll get a gaseous build up so therefore need a SVP to satisfy said requirement. There is absolutely zero need for you to have a second SVP, that's just nonsense. Challenge it and ask why it needs two, and ask for it to be given in writing with an explanation. They'll drop it like a hot rock. Smoke detector in the kitchen may be to compliment the obligatory heat detector if the kitchen us over a certain size / the room space is excessively big.

Yes, because copper is king. ?? That's the one.