Nickfromwales

Why no ashp UVC ? Seems a no brainer, is it a space issue?

First off thet should be able to INDEPENDENTLY identify the issues here and resolve them with some sense. 1) heating flow temp is too low for the air rads 2) air rads temp is too high for the UFH loops to accept directiy 3) LLH shifts water not heat so cannot either rule or define these temps 4) simple solution is to fit a TMV and job done 5) you could refine this by fitting a small buffer but a bypass arrangement ( e.g. your LLH ) provides this anyhoo ? Are these the same installers who fitted a 2-port after the 3-port for giggles ?

That's 3 pints ?

????

Tossers. ?

Apart from the glitch with thectowel rads, as highlighted, I don't see a huge overhaul being required As Jeremy suggests, a probe / TRV thermostatic blending valve can be introduced at the manifold and that will regulate the floor loop flue temp nicely. Then you can run the ASHP heating temp just high enough to bring the air rads on by themselves. ( Modifying the rads is a step sideways not forward imo ). Tee off for the air rads after the LLH so your getting bigger flow ( and a better mix ) through it, and utilise the wasted 2-port ZV for control of the rads. Now can we go to the pub ?

Tbh I'd rather them set like that. No need for a hot towel, just not a cold one. I was just about to ask if they were fortified with electric elements aka dual-fuel. ? That's a true diverter so absolutely no need whatsoever for the second valve They probably just saw that in the box and thought "must do something....let's just fit it and worry later" Actually, you could take the motorised head off and use it manually as a gate valve to choke the flow to the LLH , ( just an expensive gate valve ! ).

@NSS Can you post the model / part numbers of each of those ( silver metal boxed ) zone valves please?

A 2-port AFTER the 3-port valve Curioser and curioser. .

Adding a gate valve to the LLH flow ( before the LLH but AFTER where it tees off for the rad ) will allow you to balance the output from the ASHP and split it equally between the manifold air rad.

?? How does everything perform as it is now?

Enjoy ! Thats why the LLH is there then, so the UFH can circulate when the motorised valve isolates the UFH from the ASHP and directs flow to the cylinder at max temp. It'll also allow the two pumps to be running at different speeds so deffo for hydraulic separation and not much else. The answer to the original post has to be, that setting the UFH temp via the ASHP flow temp setting means there is no option or mechanism to allow the ASHP space heating temp to be increased without increasing the UFH flow temp . A very peculiar design, BUT, it works. Another qiestion....did the installer know the air rad was being fitted at the design stage or was it a bolt-on?

Not quite. The UFH can circulate from the low loss header ( spot on with that btw ) as it hydraulically separates the UFH from the ASHP. That allows each circuit to remain at 0 poreabtail and each can pass through the LLH without either pulling or pushing in any direction. Both 'can' therefore circulate independently, but there should REALLY be a 2-port zone valve in that arrangement which opens when the ASHP is called on for heat. That imo would offer a better heating characteristic / hysteresis as it would circulate the heated water rather than heat linear to the ASHP set temp ( and its hysteresis). I agree that the likelihood is that it's all running in unison, and it's very strange to see it configured this way, as @JSHarris has highlighted. @NSS, does the ASHP also provide DHW ?

In conjunction with a thin ply I should have added. . 18mm plank with a proper tongue and groove is pretty robust. The laminates have nearly half the joint thickness removed so are terrible in comparison.

Go for it as you'll have ( when I get around to posting it ) a big enough manifold anyhoo. Then one thing you MUST use is aluminium spreader plates. I'd leave the rockwool in TBH as I don't think you'll really notice the difference in the real world. Decking up... Spreader plates down... Pipe in... Deck back down... Drink beer. ? If you switch the OCD off ( easier said than done ) you can do this on a weekend start to finish. Set yourself a target to be done and just do it.

No, that's the beauty of it. It's got memory because of the aluminium layers, so doesn't come off the coil like an angry spring and tangle up like pert or speedfit does. Speedfit have finally cottened on to nobody sane wanting to buy / use their stupid springy unmanageable pipe so now have produced a range called 'lay flat' which is easier to work with ( 15mm though ). I still don't choose speedfit as I don't like the fittings, utter crap compared to Hepworth.

You could have bought @Onoff's home-made onefor £50 lol.

You can use much thicker engineered flooring directiy over it, but it has to form a solid deck eg minimum of 18mm. Its about point pressure, and laminate relies on a solid subfloor as it needs to be fully supported.

Try and keep up will you Were on about using pex for potable. Don't go taking a Kango to your slab quite yet.

I only use the Pex for potable services if it's 'left over' from the UFH order. Some ufh loops leave long off cuts so it's ok to use it then imo as it's just too short to ever use again as an UFH loop and would otherwise be binned. On the last job I ran it as hot & cold there was around 140m2 of UFH and a lot of leftover pipe so the cost of the 15x16mn connectors soon became insignificant. Fwiw, I'd never choose to use a non standard ( 16mm ) pipe from choice as it's not going to be economical, so if designing and installing from scratch it should all be 15mm ( Hepworth ) so it's directiy compatible with the range of fittings it'll need connecting to.

Get the plasterer onboard, it's his job so get his POV. .

WRAS approval is usually a benefit as this pipe is also ok for running hot and cold ( potable / drinking quality ) water through it. . I've used it plenty of times as a robust alternative to copper when I've had the house ( renovations ) open and free reign to pull long lengths in with no joints.

The pipe is the type I use, and if that's £155 for 300m then not a bad price too Its "make an offer" too so try just taking the £14 delivery fee off .

?? Your on it ? @JSHarris blog is very informative from the ground up so maybe check some of his earlier entries and have a damn good read there first. ?

You'd be surprised what 2 guys on a big bow saw can do. All you've got to do is condemn it