Nickfromwales

Yup. Their a real pita. . Just tip a box onto a clean surface and see what'll end up in your fingertips .

Hi David. Always good to have a new member with a background in H&S . Stick around and see if you can contribute to some of the help threads in the relative topics and who knows, in exchange for some knowledge...... . Advertising is a no no as were a discussion board, so if unsure just have a read through our Terms and Conditions ?

You only need one vent to atmosphere and the rest can be AAV's. The vent to atmosphere is purely a requirement, per dwelling, to vent the gasses that acclimate in the sewerage network rather than what your home produces . The vent can be outdoors as a dumb riser off the foul water manhole and be in smaller 75mm ( 3" ) soil pipe. It can be at the rear and out of site or even at ground level at the periphery of the plot, hidden by plants.

+1. The reason it's a fibre washer is because the anode is sacrificial, so will need inspecting and replacing with some frequency. I'd try taking the anode out, filing the mating steel surface to get rid of any imperfections, dabbing a bit of hammerite on the then exposed metal and reinstall with a new fibre washer. Do NOT use any lubricant or jointing compound as the fibre washer will displace outwards when you rotate it and it tightens. . It needs to be clean and as dry as possible to seal.

Above the top of the WC pan makes sense, but as high up as the basin overflow could be right. Downstream of the AAV would have to be blocked solid for this to be an issue, but as soon as the water got as high as the WC pan it's going to oveflow there way before the basin trap.

Posh ones Not so posh ones Both available in different sizes.

As they have moving parts they can fail. If they fail, you get foul stench coming out of them. Basically they allow air to be sucked into the sewer when the loo gets flushed and the falling pipework had a full slug of water in it, falling vertically. For a short period during this event, in some pipe arrangements ( but most problematic where it falls one or two floors ), you get a vacuum created in the soil pipework.That vacuum can suck water out of basin / shower / bath traps and then foul stench can come out of them, until waste water replenishes the traps. The AAV is there to mitigate against that problem. You could argue it out with the BCO that a basin trap with AAV inbuilt would suffice if the invert between the soil outlet of the WC and where the groundworks soil turns back to horizontal ( heading to the manhole ) is less than 1300mm. A 110mm AAV would be overkill in that scenario, and if you can demonstrate that working to the BCO they should agree to let you do away with the 110mm AAV and just stick with the basin / other aka secondary mitigation measure. Some Bco's are stubborn and won't agree to that in principal but they should be ok after a successful demo. If it's falling more than iirc 1300mm it's a 110mm AAV every time.

Well spotted. But the strangest thing is it should really be the space where the room stat is . It's a bedroom according to the schematic.

If possible don't use acrylic aka ready made tub adhesive as it takes eons to dry out and needs porosity to dry properly. Id recommend using standard set dry ( powder ) adhesive and you'll have a good hour to work with it before it starts to stiffen. When you notice the mix starting to stiffen in the bucket you must scrape out and bin it. NEVER EVER add water to a dead mix to reconstitute it. Don't mix more than you can use in an 1/2-3/4 hour is the rule. ? With the primer, make sure the first application goes on liberally and cover up any adjacent surfaces as this stuff sticks to things it shouldn't. .

Sand the walls briefly with 40 grit paper. Buy this and water it down 50/50. Give it a good brushing and leave it soak in for an hour. You'll see the first coat soaking into to wall and the second coat will just reseal the first coat and shouldn't look like it's soaking in any more. After an hour or two it'll be dry and should be slightly tacky, which is then ready to tile .

@Ferdinand Last pic shows pump set to three. Knock it down to 2 and wind the input TMV temp down to 40oC. Leave for 48 hrs to acclimatise and check how it's performing. 50 is way too high. Dont confuse your red expansion vessel for a buffer tank, as it's not a buffer and therefore will do nothing towards stopping short cycling. I don't see a 22mm bypass valve anywhere, is there one under the boiler ? Does the house have rads and UFH or just that manifold and just the one floor of UFH ?

No matter TBH, 10mm is fine unless they're huge rads.

at least your honest . 10mm to all wash hand basins and WC's and 15mm everywhere else is the norm. How are you getting the pipe to the rads? Out of wall or up out of the floor?

You've only now joined the forum have you ? Weve been bragging the manifold vs uninterrupted pipe setup for over 2 years between here and EBuild. Naughty step for you ? Re the radiators on a manifold, yes, I've done it a few times and works a treat, just beware not to mix any different disciplines, eg one manifold dedicated for rads, so you can select a higher flow temp on the TMV. You could do away with the TMV for a rads-only manifold but then you have to live with the rads being at the boiler flow temp, which if you've got an uvc will be 60+oC so a bit too hot imo.

The grey box is a pipe / cylinder stat and it's there to stop the pump from spinning if the flow manifold temp exceeds the set point. Basically it's a failsafe should the primary means of thermostatic control fail If this is off a system boiler or combi then the manifold pump may well have been wrongly omitted . Is there no pump at the manifold? Can we have a zoomed out pic? My fault for not seeing the HL stat as that's prob why you weren't getting any flow. The boiler was lighting, sending way too hot water to the manifold and the HL stat was shutting the whole thing down. More detail of system components / pic of under boiler etc please. Something is missing here me thinks.

Given that ian will end up with a manifold and UFH, and even though a slight digression, I think it'll be useful to the topic . So... The unit the plug goes into is the wiring centre ( Wctr ), the room stats connect to the Wctr, and the actuators get controlled by the Wctr. The acuators are dumb if they are 2-wire, or they're active if 4-wire ( as with 4-wire each actuator has a switched pair that close when the actuator is fully open and that would then directly control the manifold pump ). You've likely got 2-wire by the look of the Wctr and the pump relay will / is likely to be inside the WCtr. Is the pump pump speed on low / 1? That's a lot of heat going in TBH, so what's the floor construction? I'd dial the temp back to 35-38oC going in and change the pump speed to med / 2.

The blue, red and hard to see white collars are the horseshoe shaped circlips that keep the JG stuff from undoing themselves. Nice touch having them all colour coded for hot cold and softened etc. ?

Plus one to all of that. I've NEVER put ptfe on a compression unless it's a rad valve going onto an existing copper stem and the olive has been crushed by the previous Neanderthal. Slic-tite is great stuff, and I'd recommend that for compression TBH. It's quite thin and you literally only need to smear the conical / chamfered parts of the fitting ( the parts that the olive presses against ) plus the first 2-3 valleys of the male threads ( for rotational lubrication thus avoiding the brass 'squeak' ) so you use less torque to achieve a tight / snug fit. The JetBlue is recommended by our resident bathroom sloth @Onoff but I routinely use Rocol Gas Seal for everything as it's dense, and non setting. I find the JetBlue and Boss White etc don't stay on the threads that well as they are a bit like putty. That can see them entering the bore of the pipe and then contaminating the system / clogging filters / cartridges etc.

Funnily enough I was thinking something similar today !! My version has a bit of a sting in the tail though, as I was thinking of going out and doing the first fix for someone, charging accordingly, but tutoring them as I work so they can either join in with the first fix basics or at the least feel confident enough to carry out the second fix on their own....... type of thing. Recent events have got my brain spinning as I may be having a building work sabbatical

@JSHarris swears by the liquid PTFE stuff. Can't recall the name of it

I think it's @PeterStarck that has the uber nice looking plastic manifolds, one where I have to concede the point as it does look pretty damn good ?

I can't really endorse soldering copper in your own house if you intend to cover it over, if you've genuinely never done it before. You can have the best looking joint, soldered and fluxed, cleaned and polished. Then you pressure test and it's all going great. Then you put heat through the pipe and it cracks and opens to weep out of site. Do it where it can be seen / accessed but that's a good place to keep the soldered stuff imo. Good to convert to copper where it's exposed as pushfit is bloody ugly stuff to have on show, even in cupboards etc. Top tip for soldering is don't get it too hot. As soon as the flux evaporates away from the joint your pretty much up to temp, any more and you'll start the fluxed internal surfaces to go black, and then they'll refuse solder. I use Templers Telux Mild and clean the pipe and fittings spotlessly with fine steel wool, plus I always brush flux onto the solder so your reintroducing the list evaporated flux as you solder. Apply solder from furthest away from you and work back towards yourself, that way you'll know the unseen part of the joint has taken solder in. As I was always told "heat the fitting NOT the pipe " . The fittings have thicker walls than the pipe so require more time to arrive at the same temperature as the pipe, but you only need a small amount of heat for them to be warmed through sufficiently and for the solder to take to both. You have to take the flame away and bring it back again during soldering to stop the joint from 'burning' but a few practice joints will start you off for a look-see.

The timber floors ( assuming aluminium spreader plates there ) will prob need a higher flow temp to get the house heating up at the same time, but 35oC rather than 45oC to start off . Small ( +/- 2oC ) increments assessed over 24/48 hrs are sufficient for upping / downing and settling on the best temp. With 6-8 ports the pump speed should be no higher than 2.

JG speedfit is inherently flawed IMO as you can rotate the pipe anti-clockwise and that merrily undoes the twist 'lock (?)' fitting with ease. You can stop that from happening by fitting the little horseshoe circlips under the collar, but it's all just hassle. Hepworth is night and day better, and yes a bit more to buy, but it's certainly fit and forget. @recoveringacademic, the pipe outside diameter is crucial to the forming of a watertight seal, so look after the pipe. Keep it baggaged and DONT drag it through holes or masonry thus creating linear scratches aka tramlines down the length of the pipe as you then bugger the whole length up. Water loves tracking along those tramlines so look after the pipe, my number one rule.

You know the way to a mans heart