Nickfromwales

Runs = pipework from one location to another. Do try and keep up !

Pics are much better. Thanks. Ignore the following silence, im preparing my speech lol.

Bloody anywhere judging on what were seeing so far Im trying to ascertain if the ufh have any on the runs between the TS and the ufh manifolds.

Can you also identify if there are any motorised zone valves. They look like this or this

OK Could you please take a couple more pics of the thermal store, zoomed out a good bit so I can see whats going where. Ive just about sussed it but I cant see the path of one or two items. "normal service will soon be resolved" lol.

Just beating the kids into submission and ill join the chaos.

Fwiw, I absolutely HATE having customers 'dangle carrots' like that, it makes my blood boil. And its usually the ones who can afford to pay and think they have the upper hand. Thats usually where I nod my head like a good little boy, and then shove another 20% on the bill for "wanker tax". A previous customer had me pay for some trinkets, only £60-70 worth, but I took the money our of my pocket to buy them whilst the customers were on a luxury holiday. At the end of the job ( and them agreeing the job was way beyond their expectations ) I asked for the money and had to give chapter and verse to get the amount AGREED, not paid. 3 months later I get a call from said customer....could I go back and explain how to hook up the sky cables I ran for a song whilst the ceilings were down.....so along I pop. Deed done, and on the doorstep, I turn and politely say "could you transfer that £x materials money for me please?"....."we'll see" came the reply. I left. Another month or so went by. I get a call...."X item you fitted has stopped working, could you come out and fix it please?"......I replied "We'll see"....and the line went quiet. I made that person wait 3 months, with them ringing to voicemail and texts going unanswered, until I went to do the repair. Of course, one of the terms of my return was to have the outstanding money in my account FIRST. At that point I think the penny dropped. They asked for some more 'favours' whilst I was there, but I just said I was late for another appointment and thought F.U. Moral of the story.....Stump up when the bills due, end of chat. Anything else is a massive piss-take. If you want a retainer, state that thrice UP-FRONT before a single screw has been turned. There, I did my worst.

That makes more sense. Pics would be good.

+1 on the sealer, but wouldn't you only need the cleaner if you've inadvertently left a grout residue behind ?

I've seen that type of UG pipe a few times, but it's not the norm . Ive also seen the AG with the same sandwich but I cannot remember forvtye life of me who makes it ( or why tbh ). Note : AG = above ground - grey / white / black etc UV resistant. UG = underground - typically terracotta / orange. Non UV resistant.

Yes, and yes.

Maybe just the bend and upstand is AG and the rest UG ( orange )

Have you / they pressure tested?

Holes

Ass

Oh, and mop at 45 degrees to the grout lines, not along them With porcelain the grout will stay wet for a long time, so it'll push down if you mop along them.

I haven't yet met a problem that I couldn't fix. Just be nice to not have to do it....but wheres the fun in that eh?

With great mop comes great responsibility. Trust me, when you see how quickly that works compared to even a Wash-boy bucket and sponge its 1000x better. Just mop slowly so you don't flick up the walls. Latex gloves for grouting will help, but if theres two of you who can grout side by side just to get it down then even better. I take it you know to switch the ufh off the day before ?

Nobody should have used solvent weld to come up through the slab imo. It's too brittle and gives no movement in the joint whatsoever. If the fittings and pipe weren't de-contaminated / cleaned prior to solvent CEMENTING, NOT just solvent weld then the joint will fail regardless. Are you 100% sure this was a solvent fitting? Good news is you could remove the stub of pipe, and diamond core drill down to meet the offending fitting. You could then clean and re-make the joint. Not ideal, but better than a two-finger salute.

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Any builder who puts a soil pipe THAT far off the wall wants shooting. Simple. I think I'd sleeve the soils as they come up, with some 5" duct / similar, so if I ever had to rework them they'd not get damaged by the kango. A 5" sleeve would also give 10mm wiggle room. When happy, plug the bottom with foam and pour a strong but wet mix of 6mm concrete down to seal it up.

I think they should give us our own forum

Please excuse my friend, he only went to school to rob the lead off the roof Whilst high from the lead poisoning he forgot to mention to allow for whatever is going on the wall. The soil should be only 10mm away from the plastered finish.

Not a cats chance I'm afraid Look where the FF level is and it's 10" away. Time to get the kango out and drop at LEAST 200mm before fitting 2x 45's to rectify. First one prob be ok if you kango 50-100mm down and use a pair of 15's or 30's. Had the same prob on a job in oxford, where they wanted a corner WC in the place of a regular one, and another where I had to relocate a complete wall to create a plant room. Was unpleasant but not impossible. Its VERY IMPORTANT not to damage the outside of the pipe with the chisel bit. Doing that will prevent you getting a seal with the fittings. Go slow or you'll be in the ?

Yup. 1000%. Just hack it back now to 12" of growth ASAP or you may be Donald Ducked. 'Pruning' is fine . I'd be on the phone now. Also, a bit of a drift, but can you take preemptive measures against the bats now, eg pump every nook and cranny of the existing roof with nylon render mesh / foam and seal it up tight. ?