Nickfromwales

Thanks for sharing it here as it's the bits that don't go so well that have the most value in a help and discussion forum. Ask your son to get involved and to ask questions, but not to be overbearing. Hope it all moves along as well as it can.

Just saying to use a diversionary tactic with the neighbour. Nothing against anyone just easier to smooth things over with a distraction. Have a little cry in front of them and get them feeling sorry for you. Theyll soon be round for coffee when you ask if they'd like to come in and see the house.....curiosity will be eating them alive. That'll break the ice. Then cry a bit more for good measure. .

What has Bco asked for re thickness ? Is sound proofing essential, because if it is then acoustic control is far better with a dense batt / slab than with loose wool. Maybe a choice between both in essential / non-essential areas? Bedrooms with bathrooms adjacent would be essential for eg.

Ok, I'll be the one to say it.........so that means your not in then ? ?

For the cost of rebar, I'd be putting it in regardless, especially on unknown ground. Piss them off some more, simple. If they were building a house they'd do it to you without a second thought. Life has taught me to stop being kind to folk on the assumption that they'll be nice back, cos it rarely happens trust me. This is an absolutely fundamental stage of the build, so stop compromising and put your foot down. Get the concrete trucks in and time will be a healer, and when you see the neighbours blame the architect . Takes the heat off you.

Link ?!? ??

The next sensible thing to do is get rid of the rotary mechanical wall thermostats, as they're basically never intended to work with in floor / slab heating. They simply don't respond quick enough. The issue is that you need to set them way over what you need as the undershoot is massive. Current customer is awaiting me to return to fit digital controls with 0.5oC hysteresis, about the minimum you'll need for such accurate, multi zone ( space ) heating, and the fine tuning of. You may want to increase the manifold flow temp by 2oC and no more, and reassess over the next 48hrs. Good to hear the results are starting to come, so at least we're getting somewhere. . Trying to balance the loops by closing the flow down per loop will be a royal pita, and you'll literally have to do that at 0.5 lpm increments, adjusted every 48 hrs until you see the change. Personally I'd change the stats and lean on those, the idea being that you can set the flow temp a little higher to get a better response time, and still avoid the under / over shoots. Ufh in a non passive house is a tricky beast to tame.

Might be a bit obvious that I'm thick if I go back and edit that lol. ?

Farther Ted too !!

Not on principal, just its a bit of a pointless mess now. .

Ebay for me. Just kept scouring until one came up. Any good ?

I think this thread may be done folks ? Anyone object to it going bye bye?

You don't go perpendicular through the webs, you go along the joist voids . The reference to under, I believe, is just the physical level, and you simply attach noggins as "catchers" to the underside of the top member to create a lip for the lengths of osb to rest on and get fixed to. This is negated by using aluminium spreader plates.

??

When I worked on the ships we had site meetings with the shipyard ( primary client ) every Tuesday and Thursday, and meetings with all the other trades / contractors / ship owners every Monday, Wednesday and Friday on board. That meant all the trades and all the various disciplines were brought together repeatedly to make sure nobody was taking scaffold down that needed to be left up, that cabins were being stripped ready for hot works etc and so on, and it worked extremely well. 'Line outs' were an essential part of daily life where multiple disciplines in one space all literally drew on the bulkhead what was going where and how big it was, and the most bulky / difficult / crucial systems were given priority over say cables which could be run pretty much any way. One example in a domestic build would be getting the soils and wastes in first, priority 1, the mvhr in next as priority 2, plumbing as 3, electrics as 4 and so on.... The problem is that most trades are in it to win it so will take the easiest route and not give two ?'s about others to come behind them. Then the blame game starts as the ones to suffer start charging to divert / re-run stuff at additinal cost to the client. That's when paying someone who can highlight, foresee and avoid these costly clashes, ( time as much as money ), has easily justifiable value. The benefits of such a service is further reinforced if the client is less knowledgable/ less hands on, so each case has differing levels of merit.

I guess it's more about coordination than complexity.

He could have been Welsh, but no ones perfect !?

If no mvhr the trickle vents will be essential. They can be shut, remember .

Yes, but it'll have to be replaced elsewhere to comply. It can go outside on a rear elevation out of site and be reduced to 3" instead of 4" so can be made to look like a down pipe. Oh, and welcome @Joss ! ?

50p a cut after the first 4 free cuts Thatll be about £2k worth of cuts. I'll tile it for less

I cannot believe your going through with this ? Just mark out on the walls and get sticking !!!

+1

Is there any natural ventilation to the basement? If you can't use rockwool, can you not use polystyrene EPS instead ? Rockwool and foil backed plasterboard may work tbh, but it'll be a cold floor with such a small ( poor ) insulating layer otherwise. Even better would be to rockwool again, and then put full 8'x4' sheets of 30mm foil faced cellotex / king span OVER the joists, not in-between, and cover all the joins with 4" foil tape. If you aren't bothered about looks just leave it as is, or gets some long PB screws and PB it.

Save the image to your device first, then click the 'click to choose file' button. . You cant paste an image in afaik. Allow me ?