Nickfromwales

You can buy these which go onto the end of the 16mm pipe and straight onto a regular rad valve. They are rated to go directly into a compression 15mm bend / elbow but would do this task just as easily. Most trvs have a very short pipe entry, and they may not be compatible, so best to buy one of everything, those adaptirs, a TRV, and a locksheild valve and make it up to see if all's well. You could PTFE these onto regular angled rad valves and then fit the adaptors onto that to take the pex back horizontally but then will you be able to form a bend to drop vertically ? You could drop a fitting by using these and take the 16mm + adaptor straight to the valve horizontally. Bit pricey though. The last time I did this I did as @PeterW suggests and ran short, neat bits of 15mm copper, bent ( double sets ) back to the skirting boards and converted under the floor at each valve. If your using room stats to control actuators on the manifold, then DO NOT fit trvs. . Edit : nowt wrong with dropping to a 15mm manifold and 15mm Hepworth pipe

Fixed wiring terminates at the fused spur anyway, so it matters not one jot what is connected, as long as it's safe. For a new rewire I'd be less than happy, unless, as stated above, it's been by prior approval between yourself and the sparky and you were made aware of the compromise before it was undertaken. As you have stated its the majority of the floors lighting that's affected, I'd ask immediately for it to be rectified without charge. It's not acceptable IMO, and I'd be just ok if it was a partial rewire. Get it changed and get the amendment notified in the certification. .

And another plumber meets his untimely demise ? "Damn you, pushfit !!!!"

No idea, just a random internet image grab. TBH, the supplier @IanR linked to is reasonabke and has the different sizes needed.

Wouldn't some sort of Z bar plastic / alu profile be better fir this purpose? How big a shadow gap? Hey-up........

2 weeks. Effective immediately ☠️

One week ban each. ?

B&Q of all places seem to be ok, but prob cheaper if you can fin somewhere online as usual. At least with B&Q you can see the stuff and get a feel for it. +1 on ball raced rollers and solid tracks. Nylon / PVC is the devil.

People......if you have to do more than my suggestion, sack the chuffing plasterer. ??

Very good stuff. You'll have no problems with that one ?

Gutted. I tried sooooo hard. You wait, it'll be everywhere by the end of 2018

@Onoff I bought these for the last job. One went vertically mounted in the shower, selecting rose or handset, and one horizontally over the bath selecting overflow filler and pull out handset. Excellent flow rates and cheaper than shoplifting. Tres bien. Flow to the relative outlet at each end and temp dial in the middle. Get the round ones or your OCD will take up the rest of your life getting them realigned after each use

Pre insert a screw as shown with the point just hidden Sit the wedge against the floor, push it against the skirting until your snug, then send the screw home. Don't let it go right through the floor in case of pipes or cables.

He means grout ?

I don't think your pushing the tool in fully and keeping it there whilst de-mounting the fitting. Partially losing pressure on the tool will close the fitting enough to grab the insert.

I think that's the best option. ?

No more cider for you ?

The latter. Looks much better and if tall enough you can put a glass divider to double the shelf space.

It was beyond tight, and the washing machine was a total barsteward to level as it had to be taken in and out to get it level. D/W should be easy as the rear leg drops from the front panel.

I quite like the two pockets set out like this. Just raise them up, where they are, 2 tiles higher, then make them one course taller and bingo afaic. ?

Is that a wren kitchen ? I've just done one identical to that with the chrome verticals and the chrome fingergap for handleless doors. Getting the washer / drier under the base unit chrome strip leaves VERY little wiggle room.

Same as mine. ? You've passed the test. Tis a tad heavy, but cutting 6" skirting standing up makes life so much easier. Troughing / rebating guide is super handy too. Now, something about insulation, for balance .............. I didn't know you had to like insulation to choose it If it's better at keeping the heat in, would that not be a deciding factor ?

How did you get on with the vac? The last one I saw had a hose about a half mile long and the outlets were less than reliable. A pita to store and get in / out, compared to just buying a good quality cordless vac for each floor for eg.

Plenty good enough for 2 holes

Same as drilling a composite kitchen sink tbh. Buy a diamond tile hole cutter, just a cheapy on off eBay, and use a hand operated spray bottle to keep the bit soaking wet whilst drilling. Make a plywood template first with a hole the same size, and that'll keep the drill bit central whilst drilling ( as the tile hole cutters don't have a pilot bit ). Have a mate hold the template whilst you start drilling, and when the hole cutter is about 2-3mm in, withdraw it very slowly at full revs and take the template away. Wash the hole out and then carry on drilling until you punch through. Top tip : cut a couple of squares of thick card about 50mm x 50mm and make a hole in the middle of each one. Slip these over the drill shank before putting it into the chuck of the drill. That'll stop the metal chuck of the drill striking the bath if you accidentally push through as the hole drilling is complete ?