Nickfromwales

Hi and welcome. After 5 builds I'm surprised your using a general contractor. You must be a dab-hand by now @Stones has a few under his belt too so good to have a few well-versed self-builders here. To what standards have your previous builds been to?

What exactly is it made from ? Stone dust resin ?

Good choice on the chop saw Is that the shadow line like my one ? I should say something about insulation, but it's amazing at what just one pint can do

Don't tell them the budget. Just say you'll pay accordingly for the kitchen you like. Ask them to omit appliances so you get the cost of the 'wood' only. Basically that'll de-cloak the cost of the actual kitchen. It's harder then for them to garnish the price with the usual 40% that they then revoke.

Once inside you only need 150-200mm between gas and electric in Wales.

Howdens are just too "bread and butter" imo. You can do much better for not much more £.

Airlock then. Proceed as above ?

Time to shop smart then. You can make a stunning kitchen and fit cheap appliances for now, upgrading as you go. As I've said, everything in the magnet showroom is available from magnet trade, literally thousands of pounds cheaper. . Get B&Q and wickes to design you a kitchen with the space you have, then get them to do two or theee variations explaining that time is of essence, then use those free drawings to start a design of your own. Upooad it here and we'll chuck in our 2-cents. Bingo.

Hi and welcome . Beautiful place, Cirencester. Take a seat, and the answers will follow .

Oh, and square looks so much better.

Damn your thick skin......we were hoping to have broken you by page 34 . The whole "I don't want to get wet turning the shower on" thing is just a load of bollo...... You turn the shower head to one side and then flick the switch. You also don't want to be dripping on the non sloped floor when adjusting the valve from head / handset / temp etc, so I'd actively put the valve wiring the confines of the wet floor area. Jump the pockets up a tile high each. The bottom one is too low.

Whats the black doodah under the boiler? Does one of the F&R pipes go through it ? Eg is it a filter, and blocked?

@Tennentslager I think I missed saying that lot above needs doing starting with all the other rads off. .

Deffo. BUT, with just the furthest rad on, and no others, the pump should be man enough to push through there. Ok. Let's put this to bed. Shut both valves on the furthest away rad that the attic feeds supply. Remove the blank cap opposite the vent / bleed cap. A bit of water will come out, then it should stop. If it doesn't, the TRV isn't on tight enough. Fit a hose to the radiator union with a flexi and run it to a drain. Top the boiler pressure up to 2.5bar. Switch the boiler on. Open the TRV to start purging water through the rad to drain. Open the filling loop up and keep the pressure above one. Open the regular valve ( wheel head ) on the rad and then instantly shut the TRV. Keep gong for a few minutes until you can't hear water and air from the hose. Switcg back to the TRV only for another couple of mins and shut the TRV. ( both valves shut at this point ). Switch the boiler off. Shut filling loop once you've topped up to 2 bar pressure. Remove hose, reinstate the blank cap, open the TRV ONLY to fill the rad, bleeding it until full. Open the wheel head and bleed again. ( both valves open at this point ). Switch the boiler on and see if that rad gets warm straight away. If it doesn't, come pick me up and we'll Thelma and Louise it. Once that's circulating open the other rad off the attic loops. Run for 10 mins until it's all hot. Then open the furthest other rad on the other loop, then the next etc until all on. Or not.

I had already factored in for this going full circle twice, but glad we're on the same page I wonder if the van that delivers the grout will be driverless. ?

I'll put the kettle on........... Thats going to create a LOT of work, and some ridiculously difficult cuts. Plus, imo, will go out of 'fashion' before the grout dries ??

Skim it.

Are all the non TRV valves all deffo fully open one side, and balanced as per my previous on the other side? Im a bit stumped tbh, this should be working just fine. .

Is that a hand towel or a bath towel? Take me now Lord.

They'll be 2-way IMO, but look on the body ( chrome bit ) for the bent arrow symbol. If the 22mm pipe is only getting warm for 5-6' after the boiler then it stinks of airlock. Is that with the rads nearest the boiler turned off on the TRV ? Turn rads 1,2,4&6 off on the TRV's and tell me what happens.

Not necessarily 'wrong', but if you can live on the change that's left over, I d'oth my cap....and the world salutes you sir. ?

First thing to clarify is if the TRVs have an arrow on the body, it should be double headed. That means the TRV is bi-directional, so the polarity of flow and return matters not one Jot. If they are used / old TRVs then yes, double check. Can you clarify ? ( not from the pub obviously ? )

Jesus. If we're against you AND the better half, now could be a good time to shut BH. ?

I'll scratch my noggin.

Cool. Sounds like there is a way of controlling the air rad and the primary pump as a couple. The UFH will simply draw what it wants when it wants, when the 2-port is open. The hammer may well stop just by removing the primary pump force ( by teeing the UFH below it ) so I guess I'd start there. The issue is cost for the plumbers time if it also requires the ZV moving as I suggested. A second visit may not be economical so maybe do both out of diligence whilst he's there and it's drained down. From my experience, of fitting regular ZV's in the flow not the return, the only hammer I've ever had issue with has been duff actuators 'bouncing' a couple of times as they close, which created a loud water hammer sound. I simply think it's a) the wrong valve b) in the wrong place c) and the UFH doesn't need the primary pump force as it's doubling the velocity and fighting the ZV.