Nickfromwales

Change of £200 sounds good for mixed colour units. Check the distance required with your BCO and don't forget the overhang needs to be allowed for gutters / downpipes etc.

+1. It would be careless of us to continue advising you without being there and testing on your behalf. There are folk who we trades refer to as "know enough to be dangerous" and as you have inadvertently damaged ( severely compromised the integrity of to the point it is dangerous ) your own wiring through mis-adventure then yes, the time had come to get a sparky out. Its probably a very quick fix so explain you've sought help and have identified the issues so they don't pull your trousers down. ? "Make the call".

Go to a local uPVC manufacturer / supplier and make the openings to suit whatever 'mis-measures' they have for sale. Means buying the windows and doors up front but could be less than half price. Cant you squeeze it over a 1000mm away from the boundary and then avoid complex 'fire proof' finishes ? Do you think you'd get pp for room in roof over a conventional garage? Or too much ? ?

Turn the water pressure back up immediately. Every time she flushes a loo the water pressure will drop and your black milkshake will be creeping into her fresh water feed. I would possibly go back and edit the bit about you wishing she was brown bread too, in case you do accidentally kill the "old dear".

Any DER / TER figures yet for fabric and ventilation heat loss ?

I'll draw it out later and post it

Getting 230v to zero V and back again between L1 and neutral will tell you the switch works . You have 3 neutrals most likely. 1) the loop in ( 230 v being brought to the switch back box ). 2) the loop out ( 230 v being sent to the next light fitting / back box ). 3) the neutral from the light. Loop in live / loop out live and switch wire live ( Common ) will go to a connector block and then to the Common of the switch, or they will all be stuffed into the Common terminal. Light fitting live live will be going into L1. Fog lifting ? .

With the power turned off, expose the blues ( neutrals ) and ensure they're all made off together in the same block. A pic would really help here. With the blues checked out the power back on with the switch open. Test between COM and blue reading voltage and then do the same between L1 and blue. Then flick the switch and do L1 to blue again to see if the switch changes the state of L1. Sounds like a dodgy neutral to me but impossible to say down the Internet.

Does central heating work ? If so that eliminates; fan gas valve air switch and part eliminates the PCB. If no central heating and no hot water then first check is; does the fan spin and blow air out of the flue? Remeber you'll have to reset the boiler every time to check operation and as it is a stinking WB you'll have to wait a long time for it to do self-diagnostic each time. Give me a Baxi or a Vaillant any day.

Pumps on manifolds ? 3 manifolds? More info please

Deffo Gas. If there is a new supply in the house off yellow mdpe then it'll likely have been cut off in the pavement when new gas lines were last installed. Ask your local gas network transporter ( not the supplier ) to call out and test it for you. Say you think you can smell a feint whiff of gas coming from it and they'll be there within 2 hours, faster normally

+1 on not turning the water off. If you dig down, you'll probably need a means of directly disposing of the spoil as it will lead to further contamination if piled up and it rains for eg. Dig and skip or farmers trailer / other and get rid as you go.

I like the sizes of the rooms and the layout, but why the huge 'boiler room' and why don't you use some of that space to give yourself a shower ensuite ? Seems a strange use of that considerable floor space. Please do have a good read here about battery systems and their current longevity / RoI as there still seems a lot to discuss prior to investing a lot of capital into that endeavour. Nowt wrong with cabling for it in anticipation btw. ? With that amount of PV you'll find there isn't that much left for battery charging, after DHW / driving a heat pump, plus plug in loads / general / self consumption etc, so look at what ( excess ) you can produce before looking at what electric-dependant equipment / devices you'll consider installing . I'd focus on DHW first, and then look at how you'll manage space heating eg an ASHP used in the day to heat up the slab and then just a Willis heater to maintain / top-up the overnight temp, if required. If your at or around PH standards you may well be ok to go all-electric and do away with the heat pump.

You can have blue grout then to match the lights. ?

? I've been VAT registered for 30 days. ?? This place continues to be a very diverse and invaluable source of information and support.

Because the VAT man says so. Simples.

You can request penetrations in the steels ( prior to installation) and you can make holes in the Glulams. For eg on one build I have requested penetrations through 254mm UC's big enough to take a 110mm FW pipe through, and also, in the same steel, a penetration ( letterbox shape ) 51mm x 300mm for pipes and cables. They will be plated to fortify the section where the steel is compromised. The 315mm glulam will have 2x 60mm holes mid-span & mid section for 2x 50mm grey waste water pipes. All passed by MBC's SE.

Oh, and welcome to the forum ?

"Crossovers" should be done in the ample joust space and then the services dropped in order so they don't have to cross again . Not so important with cables but deffo with pipes. You shoukdbt actually have that many pipes in the same single service void so a bit of planning goes a long way ?

Same one but cheaper. Too lazy to scroll through prices sorry

The kitchen is a no brainer for silicone / other flexible sealing. Thats oranges and the bathroom is apples. So, for the bathroom, mix a bit of grout up and use the float to push it deep into the grout line / gaps. You should be doing that until you see the force of the float make grout ooze out above and below the float edges. Leave to partially cure before running a square edged float / other up the internals and sponge off the remainder making sure to clean it all off the already grouted bits. Id only then recommend getting into the silicone sealing IF the grout lines start to show signs of movement. If they dont, you dont need silicone. If you dont ram the grout in there then dont expect the results

For the turtles of course !

Why do you think they called it a cock-pit ?

Why don't you just make a hole in the bottom of the boat and pee into that?

And then the shit really hits the fan. Thats the equivalent of 8 against 1