Nickfromwales

TS's don't typically come with expansion vessels for the primary water system as you normally decide what additional volume there is beyond the TS and then fit a vessel or vessels to suit the entire system volume. The TS's that have a DHW coil always come with a small EV ( aka shock arrestor ) so @Alexphd1 can you confirm that you have one fitted? The Telford TS's usually arrive with the TMV fitted and all Tectite fittings in place with the upper cold feed going in on a tee. In that open end of the tee goes that small EV. Nowt else to go with a TS, that's the beauty of them. 10 bar DHW coil so cold mains straight in, if the mains is sub 5 bar at your property, and oodles of high flow DHW.

The installer should know about that ( hopefully lol ). / The DHW ( tappings ) are on the DHW coil so cold in / hot out are sorted . A pair for boiler A pair for space heating ( all ) Make sure you ask for two stat pockets, one upper and one lower. I'll explain why later down the line when your plumbers on board. Expansion vessels / valves etc will be down to the design your plumber adopts.

Go for 500 as you can run a bigger TS slightly cooler. Also, more volume to store PV down the line.

A fast flowing bath and one shower running simultaneously should be possible, as long as your cold mains flow will support that of course. 20+ kW to the bath and maybe 10kW should be your worst case scenario TBH, so for that reason I wouldn't go less than 35kW for the boiler. Remembering also that space heating may be drawn at the same time too, so in order to match demand ( so no drop in DHW performance, which nobody wants after forking out for a new system ) your better off safe than sorry. An 18kW boiler would just about support the bath filling, or even fail at that if it's a big bath and good flow rates at the taps. A 35kW boiler will modulate down to less than 10kW, even lower with better makes, so you absolutely will not be wasting gas if that's a worry. As for makes, I prefer a Vaillant TBH, but WB have a guarantee, not a warranty, for 10 years. You have to adhere to their installation criteria ( their filter their controls and an accredited WB fitter ) so check out the small print ( speak to them directly prob best ) and see which has the most appeal. WB have got a good reputation, Vaillant similarly so, but for an excellent daily driver I would easily recommend the cheaper but afaic fit and forget Baxi Megaflow. First two are the Mercedes, the Baxi is your VW golf. . Never ever had issues or comebacks with the Baxis, an excellent boiler.

+1

Ah, my teenage years .........

I can forgive those . The fact you used a blowlamp put you in credit.

I've 100% never EVER been asked for one. Ever.

Go and wash your mouth out with that soap and water. Wasn't this something to do with plumbing ?

Well shut my mouth

Agreed, but what does it say in the bag ? If it doesn't say finish / filler then you need a product that can be feathered out to nothing ( if it's on display for eg ).

Thats a good price tbh, and you'll be giving around a grand + filter + fitting for a regular Baxi Duotec. Tres bien.

Load the adjustable bend up with silicone grease. Fairy liquid and water mixed and a paint brush for the soapy water test. Edit : should have read , dismantle and load......

I'm going for all internal and the rear one on the garden-most wall ( below #1 sons room too as he's moaning about wifi being crap in his room ). Go climb a chuffing tree like I used to !!!

For absolute final filling, easifill normally will suffice if your painting ( then rubbing down the paint as a fine filler ) Toupret is the best I've used so far. You can accelerate the drying times with a hairdryer without compromising the filler and it feathers out to nothing ( unlike the joint filler which is coarser by comparison which 'maps' around the edges sometimes.

"I only told you to blow the bloody doors off!" .

Yup. Any insects caught up in your slab will be fossilised by now ?

50mm thick screeds make for horrible UFH emitters imo. You need to have very accurate ( short hysteresis ) room thermostats and NOT use a regular TMV on the UFH manifold to achieve a smooth heating curve from such emitters. They ( typically ) heat up too quick, cool down too quick, and incorrect / unsuitable controls allow for uncomfortable overshoot / undershoot seeing the slab go from hot to cool, rather than staying 'warm'. This can be of benefit if your not in all day, eg working family / kids in school etc, but for anything else id not go less than 75 - 80mm of screed. If building to passive / near passive standards then these problems become more apparent, especially the overshoot. With thinner screeds and the need to better regulate flow, a buffer tank is essential.

You can walk on most a few days after. 4 weeks is just utter nonsense. Anywhere between 1mm a day and 2mm a day is realistic for a slab to completely 'dry out', but its often not a requirement that it dries out before works commence eg you could be stud walling a couple of weeks later or maybe even less. You aren't slabbing, your screeding, so you need to look at that specifically. First question is how much Kingspan over the B&B and what is the depth you have left for screed?

Cool. Taking shape now. .

Outside lighting and PIR sensors need to be considered, also some remote master switches for turning lights on and keeping them on eg no disco effect as you wander around outside. After cat5/6 to all the smart TVs and PCs etc Wifi is what I'm mostly focussed on. I bought a used gigabit switch after a nudge from @PeterW and now need wifi repeaters to compliment the switch and flood the house with wifi. One at the front downstairs, and one at the rear on the first floor so the garden / patio gets good signal there. In fairness to the VM router, which is in the dining room at the front of the house, if I line up with the living room window I can get a useable signal, but off to one side of that, zilch.

Hitachi Koki is on my nail guns. On the label as above. Never asked why before, but now I know. . Another brain cell soaked up for no reason. Down to only 3 left now. . ??

Iirc, boiler plus has kicked in in England, not yet enforced in Wales, so FGHR will be one of the ways to achieve the new higher scores. There are other ways of attaining such criteria, but I think FGHR would be where my money was.

The hot return would be plumbed to the very last point that the hot pipe becomes impractical / very difficult to get to. I was on the phone to my mate last night and he's now an Atag accredited installer. Hes says they're pricey but very good. He's fitting them for customers who want the flue gas heat recovery.

All I can say is "penis". Free hot water all summer for the next 20+ years ? Yes, that would be utter madness. What height do you have up there? A std vertical UVC would be a lot cheaper as it gets a bit pricey when horizontal. If you have a gable you can get brackets made and sit it on those so the ceilings aren't taking any weight.