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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Complain to the manufacturer as their clearly not fit for purpose!!! Let them solve the problem. Does it say anything in the manufacturers literature about being non-slip / requiring slip mitigation ?
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
+1 Half, or less, of what you've done so far..............if you were lucky. . "Keep fighting the good fight, Sir" ?? -
Such a beautiful house.....it would have been a terrible shame if it was destroyed by fire by vandals and then the insurers had to clear up whatever was left . ( I had my commercial insurance renewal price this morning btw ). Another sobering thread for anyone not factoring such a budget-chewing expense.
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If your under-drawing then you'll be better off again. No need to tape the inset boards unless there is a risk of vapour getting between because of detail ( possible reduced integrity of ) at the wall / ceiling junction. Two choices, either do as my first, or ignore the taping-to-joist of the inset boards and just use the continuous internal layer as that'll be factory edge to factory edge, thus less tape consumed as you can do that confidently with one run of tape. .
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
If you've said that already and I missed it then I'll not shout loudly at my iPhone with "thanks for telling us !" as that means you already know you'll be altering it to single radial runs which makes the 15's tees subject obsolete. . Are you drinking in the day or what ? . No, I don't mean pull all that out after you've tiled.....I'd have a bloody contract taken out on me if I suggested that. I thought I'd previously said here that runs that terminate at one outlet can be in 15mm, or 15mm to two outlets where they will never normally be open at the same time, eg the bath taps / shower feed and the basin in that room. One occupant at a time = 15mm feeds no problem. Feeds should be 22mm to the attic / other, and then the ensuite tees off the 22mm in 15mm, or you do a manifold arrangement. -
Thanks for the update. .
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Plastering ICF Basement Walls
Nickfromwales replied to Triassic's topic in Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF)
With ICF are you not left with insulation as your final finish internally ? If so the answer is no, as you'll need a board that accepts skim as EPS / PIR won't. What do / will you have that your looking to apply plaster to ? -
Ian. If you have all foil faced insulation then do as I did on my last project and use 2 overlapping strips of 4" foil tape the timbers to create the VCL. Be sure to use generous patch pieces to repair the board where dinks and dings have unavoidably occurred, and job done. You have a good VCL already on the PIR so stick with that. Will you be overboarding with another thin layer of PIR once the joists are infilled ?
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
I know what @CC45 means but it's pointless worrying now as the tees will need to be 22mm later, unless your not going to bother with upgrading the feeds from 15mm ? -
I use These now as I hate the horrible, deep IP rated bathroom spots. The bulb is very high in them too so you get very little dispersion and a nasty shaft of light just pointing straight down. That means you need lots of them to adequately light even a small room . Those flat panel lights are fantastic. I used the 9w ones last and the light is just so much better compared to a downlight. Put them in the ridge of the boys attic room too, 5 of, and it completely fills the room with bright, crisp light. I wasn't so happy with the 6w, a very bluey light but maybe just that seller, so always buy a sample first and see if you like the type of light / colour before ordering all you need.
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Insulate between doubled rafters?
Nickfromwales replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
People underestimate how good a pukka resin based wood glue is. Try glueing two bits of 7x2 together and clamping for 48 hrs until completely dry. Then have a go, with your full tool kit, separating them.- 14 replies
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Maybe light a disposable BBQ in there and smoke the little bugger out. Weve got Capt. McChirpface on the gutter at around 05:00 everyday waking everyone up. He'll be getting a cricket bat around the ear if he doesn't shut his little beak up.
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Insulate between doubled rafters?
Nickfromwales replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
The good old days mate. I've not had that specified for an age, really not necessary unless it's a super-diverse scenario. Wood is nice and uniform these days so a lot better than before ( the old sawn stuff ). For belt n braces I just glue as well as bolt. When the glues gone off you could prob take the bolts out as that's a lot of surface area bonded to the same.- 14 replies
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Rescuing the chat from here.... ....before it gets to the point where everyones dizzy. Bathroom here and the worlds first motorised, bluetooth, wifi, sonar, hydraulic, pneumatic, electrified but not simplified shower head over there. Excellent save -
If the upstairs shower is teed into the hot and cold run, then it should be with 22mm tees with 15mm centres and then 22mm pipe onward to the cylinder & cold main. Maybe look at setting this up for an UVC and keep your old copper tank as a heating buffer ? Or are you happy to go one cylinder and make it a TS? I think we should keep the plumbing on the other thread and just dedicate this one to your latest beer-fuelled invention ?
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PS. Bloody hell. Do I post here about general plumbing or back on the mother thread ?
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Don't forget to preempt what hot and cold will need to be 22mm Cold is simple, if the pipe is feeding two or more outlets then it needs to be 22mm, then 22mm all the way back to the stopcock. Hot can be 15mm to two outlets if they aren't ever going to be on at the same time eg shower and basin in ensuite will only need a single 15mm feed teed accordingly at the room.
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Hi and welcome I think you may be best off with a fixed price weathertight shell package, so you can take stock of yourselves at the weathertight stage and have a breather. If neither of you can be on site daily then you need a contracted package of works which doesnt really need such close supervision or organisation as that will ( should lol ) be in the contracted figure. Decide from that point onwards how best to direct your remaining funds, and at that stage, yes, consider engaging individual trades directly for most competitive ( NOT CHEAPEST ) quotes. Its far more bite-sized that way.
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Ill put another pot of coffee on......
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You are SUCH a liar dave. We all know its because of the price. .
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
PS. PMSL -
Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Some of my finest work. . -
No one likes a show off unless it's me .
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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework
Nickfromwales replied to Onoff's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
A bit steep. ? It's spot on mate. Now picture yourself as a turd....you get flushed from the ensuite.... The way you now have that run set up means there is no stall point ( eg no flow into the back of a flat branch ) so is as good as it can get. Let us know what the BCO said .
