Nickfromwales

Such a tragic loss. ?

Did you go to the funeral?

Some real assumptions being made here about the ability of someone to do something. Can the OP climb a ladder to soffit height and drill holes to pull cables through? If not its a job for a professional. Can the OP pair and crimp an RJ45 plug? If not its a job for a professional. Can the OP differentiate between what needs power plus a Cat5/6 and what would run POE ( power over ethernet )? If not its a job for a professional. Does the OP want to be buying expensive switches / routers to get the POE capability? ? Heres a sensible comment, given that @Hecateh is of retirement age and won't be climbing ladders to the soffit; Your BB provider will give you a wifi router with 4 hard wired RJ45 socket outlets on the back of it. Its free. Decide where you would best use those 4 sockets. 1) Main TV 2) Master bedroom TV 3) Printer 4) Where will you sit with your laptop? Then run a couple ( 2 or 3, not 10 or 11 ) for where you think they may be of use occasionally. Label them all at the router and then you can just unplug one and redirect it elsewhere. Your printer swaps out to free up a socket for the spare bedroom, for occasional guests to plug in a laptop for eg. Cheap, simple and you still have wifi. The major importance is to mount the router wisely, so you get the best signal where its most important, so if you need good wifi for the TV fire-stick then have the router in the room where the tv is. Other wifi devices will cope, its a small house. Should we encourage you to not part with any more money than you need to? Yup.

Floors first every time, boyo

Get the quote sent to Boulder Developments, Wunda and NuHeat and get them warring

You dont want to find out

TBH Wunda are very competitive for a good product delivered. I have asked to speak to their sales manager as to why they stopped selling the capillary pump and blending sets that they used to. The blending sets I use in low energy properties are the Ivar Dualmix. Be careful to choose the wider temp range model, as one has a rather narrow temp selection. @JamesP If you send your plans to Wunda they'll do all the plans and QS list for free

Ok chaps. Lets keep this to the facts and leave personal feelings / emotion out of it. I have a gun, and I'm not afraid to use it. ?

Nope. On existing solid walls

Same as yours ?. Shit photo in bright daylight.

He can't hold his beer either.

Yup. I did one and mummified the valve. Then I looked at it and thought wtf. I just did this : first coat of tanking on. Then i tiled it and dabbed a horseshoe shaped dab of adhesive from 8 o'clock to 4 o'clock, and as it's cementitious no water will be getting in there. By the time I pushed the tile on and displaced the adhesive I was sponging it away from the tile edge. Fackin Bombproof.

It's all gravy baby. Amen, reverend. ?

The floor and nearest internal angles away from the main shower area always get done in a wet room. Its to stop water tracking to the nearest porous material ( your sponge-like plasterboard or ply ) and wicking up it slowly until the shit hits the fan. No need for tanking solution on the WC wall, but I’d certainly use solution over the tape to wall junctions. Tanking start / stopping no problemo. Tank all the cement board in the shower area, like you weren't ever going to do that anyway

The generic thermostat blending valves fall over when you ask them to run at low temp. They choke the flow when the return temp raises enough to leave no differential temp between flow and return. You cant blend hot with cold if your cold is the same temp as your flow which is exactly what happens when your up to temp. All gravy whilst your cold and getting UP to temp, but when your there the TBV just goes into meltdown. Many who think it doesn't should sit and listen whilst its running and you can hear them whining and attempting to strangle the flow. If you have an adverse installation which requires a primary circulation pump, then be 100% sure to fit a full 22mm gated bypass to allow flow back to the heat source when the TBV has had its fill. This is as always case specific advice and most are PH / similar, so you really need linear heat influx and the Ivar with the capillary blend set does work like a dream. Absolutely whisper silent. I suspect there are cheaper ones, but the Ivar comes with a top-notch Grundfos pump which is super energy efficient ( >A+ iirc ). £300 with the Vodka and Tonic but money well spent imo, and also has in-built adjustable bypass in the control group so one less bit of kit to buy and install..

You really would have to be careless or malicious to damage pert-al-pex / pex-al-pex pipework tbh. My screeders wheel full barrows of screed over them and tramp back and forth without even a bump. Ive caught the odd numpty up-ending the wheelbarrow onto the pipe, but it just seems to compress the insulation. Flow rates are typically between 2 and 5 lpm as dictated by the weir flow gauges on the manifold. Pressure can be near zilch, or up over 2 bar and I cant honestly say ive ever heard an ufh pump tbh they're almost silent. If the manifold is between 5 and 9 ports you'll be on pump setting 2. Id recommend the Ivar Dualmix pump and blending set, coupled with a Wunda manifold. The Wunda manifold is telescopic so you can adjust the centres to match whichever 3rd party manifold arrangement you bought.

That sounds like a plan.

Yes please. Were still 'introducing' here Definitely needs a thread of its own to get some answers. Select the relevant forum and then copy and paste that into the OP. Raising the ground level up to get rid of damp?.....nope !

Putting AAV's ( air admittance valves ) on the stacks of the house will CAUSE the problem not solve it . Do you have a full height stench pipe on the dwelling ? One that goes to atmosphere ( that you may have then wrongly capped with an AAV ).

One to add to the contacts list. Many thanks for the feedback.

Makita for me mate, try and keep up

Well that narrows it down then Pic ?

What is it then?

Ask them to shutter around them with sand then. You need to be able to manipulate the pipes after install ideally. They'll probably register on BH now and tell me to FO

@Hecateh If you absolutely definitely have the clearance at the door / thresholds etc then 100% chuck all the screed down. Cracking job they're doing. Ask them to sleeve the pipes where they exit the screed and head up the wall.