Nickfromwales

Never apologise for adding information to a thread To make this crystal clear, the 2 burners comment is not a reference to any one boiler having two burners inside it. The lower kW range of boilers utilises one type of burner at the point of manufacture, and the higher kW range utilises the other. The lower range burner will drop down to 6-7kW at maximum modulation iirc, and the higher range burner does around 9kW. Maximum Modulation = lowest heat that the gas valve / burner can output when full output is not required / necessary.

A decent Combi plus a good, robust shower in the ensuite, and simply enjoy. If you go for a 28kW Combi it'll get two people wet in two showers but not with any force that you'd brag about. Probably would be the equivalent of two crap electric showers running, which for some is what they're used to anyway.

Ok, just curious as I wondered if that was a stipulation from MBC ( or any other TF supplier ) to maintain their own warranty. As MBC leave you rain-proof but not covered, is it right to assume their warranty stops at the felt and batten ?

Could you elaborate on this please Jeremy?

Camera needs to have audio and IR night vision. Just one in the corner of your garden pointing diagonally, half to wasteland and half to your garden, head height or a bit higher if possible. Pointless getting some evidence but not enough evidence. Plus, if that proves nothing's happening in your absence / at night you can relax the imagination a bit, ( as the worry or anticipation of something being done is 100 times worse than the act itself ). I'd put a light there too so you can switch it on and light up the area from your window, should you need to. Would help with video capture too, just make sure the light is well back from the camera so it doesn't 'blind' it. At least you'll then see who's shitting in your cabbage patch.....as I very much doubt a person is doing that . Can you get the camera in stealthily ? Eg runs the cables quietly one eve and fit and test the camera the next ? Plug it into your PC to save buying a HDR.

"Say NO to drugs" .

Nowt worse than a new, clean pair of trousers to make you look like a Jessie . Wear your stinky pantaloons with pride. PS. PMSL. ??

Blogs are good Hu, and welcome aboard. Cheers .

And then Thursday came around Hi and welcome! If the question seems daft, it's probably the right question to ask Fire away

The smaller green one that originally had the cover missing and the wires exposed. That's the HRC pump. The one in the pic is the pump that's heats the PHE so it can produce hot water. Without that pump the PHE would stay cold and you'd get no heat into the cold water going into it. The PHE is an instant water heater but needs heat passing through the primary side of it first so it can pass that heat indirectly to the secondary side.

You do, but I doubt that whomever plumbed the system ran the HRC return pipework all the way to each basin so, although the system works, it's not reducing the delay for hot water as effectively as it could be. Better than nowt though, and you'd soon notice the difference if it wasn't working at all.

( whispers gently ) it's the green pump, behind that one

If the flow switch is on the cold directly before the TS DHW coil then it will only trigger when a hot tap is open, which would be my suggestion. Motion sensors will trigger the HRC pump even if you go in just to empty the linen basket

Page 53 Says 3 minute pump overrun.

Check with Worcester first as that boiler may have pump overrun. If it does, you need a 3-port mid-position valve and to go Y-plan. With overrun you cannot use 2-ports and S-plan

If there's good pressure and flow at the 32mm, then as above. If your not on the best of mains then go all the way to a 32mm x 22mm stopcock, as then you'll want to squeeze everything you can out of the mains supply.

To integrate the Aga you'll need a big thermal store to transfer the heat to the space heating ( if that's what your original question related to ? ) Benefit is you can then use it for DHW or DHW pre-heat to your separate hot water cylinder.

I wouldn't use SBR TBH. A good flexible tile primer will stay tacky after it dries. Ultra is my usual one if I can't get hold of my local N&C ( Nicobond ) stuff. Brickies and spreads tend to use PVA or SBR for everything, but I'd recommend sticking to products of the same family eg adhesive / primer alike. Just my 2-cents.

Much as it pains me to say it, they're a good machine these days. Go for it. ?

Yup. My mate asked me to lay on with him in a summer day, 4m x 8m ceiling. By the time we got it laid on and the first flat off I could just about hold my arms above my head. My fear is that The Onoff wont be able to walk away from the first set and he'll keep playing with it aka taking off everything he's just put on. You really have to switch off and just get the stuff on before even thinking about what it looks like.

Ok, ok. Where you've filled the joints, is that now flush or slightly proud ? How many coats of PVA in are you? Hopefully just the first pissy one and Nowt else ? From now on, PVA only goes on directly before laying on ok ? ? Try and do the skimming on cool or cold days, not in the late afternoon when the walks are warm and you'll get much longer to "play with it". The mix consistency is critical. I for eg mix up a lot thicker than my other spreads as I can't concentrate on keeping the mix on the hawk whilst changing angles and looking upwards, keeps falling off Too thick and you'll be labouring hard so best advice is, if it'll slide easily off the trowel it's a bit too thin. Plasterer's everywhere will disagree, but I'm not a plasterer, I'm just a plumber who can plaster and I can do it well ( far better than some spreads I've paid TBH ). I need you to swear first that you will NOT piss in any buckets let alone add piss to the plaster ? Need that in writing FIRST.

Multi will be fine over your joints as they're screwed to joists not dot n dab. . Relax, there's no need for any magical cures. Put the PVA on with a roller, slow and steady....the spray bottle just seems crazy messy to me. Were not bullying, that's just daft, but I will now politely request that we move forward constructively . So, that said, can we remove any doubt and declare that your plastering this all yourself now ?

Hot Return Circuit. The pump you have that ( when fitted correctly ) massively reduces the delay in getting hot water out of any outlet.

Iirc the WB Greenstar 12ri will drop to 6-7kW. That's what you want.

And your shoes ?