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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Isn't that their problem not yours? Yes, sorry, just re-read this. So is the short & narrow connecting piece 22mm / 3/4"? If so I doubt you'll get much better, as the size of the tapping at the main will be no bigger.
  2. If you ever do try to drill through toughened glass, please video it for my sick pleasure .
  3. Happy days. You are now fully qualified. But now I've forgotten what the question was
  4. Glass on 2 sides, or tiles 3-sides round with glass on the front only ?
  5. Looks like 32mm MDPE x 15mm / 1/2" to the meter. Not usually a problem as the issue is the resistance of the ongoing pipe to the property.
  6. Cracking price for brushless and 2 x 5 ah.
  7. Its been said a few times here that a difference of 100mm or so in ridge height would not be argued by Planners.
  8. Never heard of S size before tbh. If its a basin tap, its usually fit ( proportionate ) for a basin. If you dont want to limit the choice of taps, just order what you like with the rod at the back, and then bin it for a pop up or flip-coin waste. A drop of clear CT1 into the 'rod hole' stops water dripping down it during cleaning.
  9. Nice blog, and an equally nice build for a renovation
  10. Is that a tee your referring to? 25mm 'centre' eg 32mm through bore and a 25mm branch coming off at 90o would be called by the two ends first, then the centre, so 32x32x25 If your saying the supply pipe reduces in size then increases again, that needs sorting.
  11. Cool. Now all you have to do is wipe that chuffing rise and fall malarky out of your mind and crack the feck on with boarding and tiling. If you stay focussed it can be done for xmas........THIS xmas. Imagine going in there JUST to jump in the bath with a beer and the bluetooth. FOCUS damnit. FOCUS!!!!
  12. Here you go Dave 4 Lpm will have the girls out of the shower in no time at all
  13. Some BS survey once quoted "Music in the workplace saw an increase in productivity of ~13%", so the radio should therefore reduce your slab to around 153m2 "Step away from the vibrating doo-dah".....Just pour and relax. Gravity, and the correct mix is your friend. ?
  14. Could read...... "Maybe a vibrating plate would help f**k things up???"
  15. Youll need one person mixing the slurry into a half full bucket, whilst you pour one. That'll take the ache out of backache. A bit anyhoo
  16. Ok, and agree that there are problematic porcelains out there too. Its down to doing the legwork tbh. The Jura will let you know when its in need of sealing again usually, as the tile will start to absorb and retain surface moisture much more than when its sealed and the sealer is "intact". Nowt wrong with sealing once a year etc as tbh its just a lint-free cloth and a bit of elbow grease. An average bathroom floor should be cleaned and re-sealed in less than an hour or two. A good exchange here Lithofin And product info here
  17. Typical install is; Incoming 15mm copper / other supply pipe. Then 15mm 1/4 turn isolation ( full bore will be the quietest but a normal ballofix will usually suffice ). Then out of that with a short section of 15mm copper. Then into a 15mm x 1/2" chrome copper to iron fitting. Then your chosen ( manufacturer supplied ) flexi goes onto the last, rather than straight onto the ballofix which some do but its wrong ( sharp cone fitting as opposed to the flat face of the iron, therefore no damage to the flexi rubber seal ). The insert flow restrictor goes into the 15mm side of the iron fitting, as the ballofixes simply dont have the depth after the olive.
  18. If a DC setup is available on the market then those implications will have already been considered and mitigated against in the design of the end equipment ? No consumer should have to consider such safety implications, thats down to the manufacturers is it not?
  19. You MUST fill the obvious, and not so obvious voids with the S/C packing first, or the slurry will just drop through. Fill everywhere half full on the first pass and leave for 15 mins. Then go around with a bucket of the S/C mix packing where its obvious the slurry has started disappearing. Leave the first slurry to go a bit harder, prob an hour max, and then go for the final pass. Thats how to be sure you'll get no gaps whatsoever. Necessary to go so nuts? Not sure, but id be doing it if it was my build.
  20. Flow restrictors or actual inline valves? These are what I normally fit, available with a choice of litres per minute restriction 3 / 5 / 7 / 9 etc
  21. When fitting new comms and data installs in secondary schools / university's etc, fibre only went between servers. Cant see you needing it in a residential dwelling anyvtime soon TBH.
  22. The spark can't move the head ( the big grey / black fuse block at the end of the PME cable ) and nor can they fit the meter. The DNO needs to relocate the head, and then your supplier needs to come and fit a meter. Then you'll be in a position to ring the spark. Where is the pre-pay meter ? Already gone ?
  23. I think has saying what I said, but more technically put. Open the restrictor ( spring ) turnscrew by 0.5 bar, found in the centre of the cartridge top. You may have to remove the dust cap to do so as I dont know exactly which one you have.
  24. Id have thought going around first with a 5:1 S/C mix to plug all the visible voids would pay dividends, followed by then mixing up a self-leveller type slurry in buckets and pouring it in? Youll never pack the gaps with mortar better than a free-flowing slurry mix will. A Lot of the ones Ive seen done have all the drips dangling down beneath them where the first lot has flowed through and cured, then a second lots been added to fill anything left.
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