Nickfromwales

Thoughts please on the powervault 3 system priced and described in the link. Thanks.

Only use the strip where the ply meets the MRPB. Tanking the pocket is more than suffice, unless your going to fill the bath with cheerleaders and red bull ?

Not 45 degrees or the shampoo won't stay put . Just a couple of degrees will be ample. Water won't completely run off anyway as you'll have stuff on the shelves, so I wouldn't go mad. +1 to packing first, then tanking. Make the ramp out of a solid bed of tile adhesive. Wait until it's 75% cures and then drag an engineers rule over it to 'scrape' it flat. Fill any dinks AFTER it dries and then tank. Theres not much point in going crazy over the shower valve TBH, as you need access later down the road anyhoo. When you tile around the shower valve it's better to keep the tile adhesive about an inch away from the cutout, and then go around the cement board with CT1 or Sikaflex. Start at 7 o'clock and apply a nice continuous fat bead up and over all the way around to 5 o'clock leaving a gap at 6 o'clock for a drip gap. That'll manage any water away from the opening, should some ever get in there. Be very careful with the tanking strip, especially when overlapping from one to another, as you'll soon have created a high spot a good 4-5mm proud of the wall. Then you have to bring the rest of the wall out to that point so you don't get kickers. Butt them where there's no continuous water eg most of the walls, and only overlap on the floor to wall junctions and the floor to ceiling junction. All the walls / pockets you can butt and just tank the shit out of it ( over it ). Remember that tanking alone is bombproof, and stretchy too, so the strip is only for junctions where dissimilar materials meet and you expect movement. On the walls and the pocket shelves you won't get any such movement so it's really not needed. Adding it for the sake of adding it can cause problems ( with high points ) not solve them ( as stated above ).

Read this too

Prisons dont seem that bad these days

AFAIK, the 3,6,9 and 12 unit sizes ( with immersions ) employ 3x 1kW immersion heaters, not 1x 3kW. They also come with a little box of tricks to manage the 3 heaters, which IIRC are accompanied by 3x thermistors placed in ascending order which determine the state of charge. Any electrical input is deemed useful tbh, but the chemistry dictates at what temperature point the PCM changes state, so best consult with Sunamp before placing an order / designing the system.

All depends whether or not your excess is exporting free but rotating your meter anticlockwise to boot

Much as I like the sound of that, its just impractical. If a tracker system could be devised that automated the process, thats another thing, but cost and complexity soon adds up. My thoughts are either a 2 x 50% fragmentation, or 3 x 33% fragmentation across the roof wherever possible for longer, lower, but much more consistent generation. That should, where practicable, be installed with a view to not 'maxing out' at midday and therefore the inverter not shutting down at 253v. Just wondered if dumping into a resistive load would help drop the local voltage if 253v ever gets attained or exceeded? Such fun

You could always just fit a WBS

Im on a steep ( vertical ) learning curve with PV so this and another thread running here are extremely informative, keep it going ! After the electricity gets out of the panels not a problem, its getting the juice out of them, optimised and inverted that seems to be the minefield. For a mixed orientation, fragmented arrangement of say 5-6kW, it seems that optimisers and a single external or garage / outbuilding mounted inverter seems to best way to go in terms of reliability, yield and ease of maintenance. Running cables from each panel into the ( accessible ) loft space seems the sensible approach, as then only a failed panel will require access to / roof work. That leaves the problem of making a reliable means of penetrating and subsequent repairing of the multiple transits ( penetrations ) through the airtight layer. What have others done here to get the cables from roof to airtight envelope? Plenty of detail please !

@Ferdinand Use silicone to fix the makeup strip to the timber. First, mark a straight vertical line up the frame with masking tape / other about 5mm away from where the trim will meet the frame. Use that as a datum line so you dont end up with a wavy / wonky trim line, which you'll see when you stand back. Apply the silicone to the timber, after the trim has been cut and scribed to fit perfectly, and press firmly into place. Use a 600mm spirit level as a flattening tool to get a nice straight edge. Push the trim against the frame and mark lightly with a pencil where the two meet. Slide the trim about 10mm away and apply a continuous bead of 'superglue' about 3mm in from the line starting at the top and working down. Dont stop or let it blob. Have a practice run further in if needed. Once you have the bead of glue in place slide the trim in to the frame, and once happy give one blast of activator from top to bottom. Dont over apply. When dry, you use white silicone to hide the joint. Bingo.

A power flush will do jack-shit for a blocked PHE. Been there, didn't get the tee-shirt.

The other components wouldn't promote rust / ferrous decay like a pump would either so maybe not so bad as you fear. Question is, is will a new pump sort it ?

Our work here is done .

Quality .

Ask your wife which she would prefer eh @CC45 ?

"Nothing to see"? Theres a hole thats the shape of a house! Excellenté 14 August......."this shit just got real, theres me hoos" Blink, and you'll miss it.

If theres Tartare sauce in the plaster god knows whats in the cakes. Doesn't stop me wanting one now I've seen them though

Looks like we have a fight on our hands. Floor tiles first where I went to school As this is a wet room the wall tiles need to be scribed to the floor as I dont like the idea of water running down a wall and into a grout line, whereas I'd rather water was running past a grout line, which you get if you tile the wall last. Plus one of my nit-picks is 'grout line PoV' where you shouldn't be looking at a grout line in the corners. For eg if you stand in the doorway of the bathroom, the wall opposite you should be tiled first, and then the two walls that run to meet it on the left and right hand side will look as if tile just meets tile. It should only be apparent theres a grout joint if you stand directly in front of that opposite wall and look left or right, where you'll be looking at the last cut tile and the grout line to close it into the corner. When I show customers that at the end of the job, and other little basic considerations, they remark on the difference it makes. Same with the floor. if you tile the floor last then all around the room you'll be looking down at the grout line, whereas you should, imo, be looking down past the grout line and directly at the floor tile, again appearing as if the tile hits the floor. Simply set the laser up at the chosen height of the first horizontal wall tile grout line and get set to cut the entire room bottom course ( dry cutting for the moment ). Then you simply turn the tile around, so the face is against the wall that its to go on, and check that its sat snug to the floor tile. It matters that the tile is NOT brought plumb as you want the scribe to be included. With the tile firmly against the wall and the floor you then simply mark the left and right side of the tile where the laser hits it. Carry the marks around to the front of the tile and then cut it. Offer the tile back to the wall the right way around with the cut side against the floor and bingo. A perfectly level cut line which follows the undulations of the floor tile with the scribe done for you by the laser. Like shooting fish in a barrel.

Get out of the hot tub and start tiling Top effort, so I'm off to the fridge for my humble pie ( Asda melt in the middle with double cream is as close as I can get ). Tres bien Rodney. ??

Dude.... Sweeeeeeet.

Sunday morning just got shot out of the water

Prob is when you go to claim. They send out some guy with a thin magnet, like a tiny business card, and if it sticks to the pipework and indicates high waterborne ferrous content they'll refuse you. Every two years you could buy a brand new combi for one property. Put the money in a bank account by standing order and pay a plumber a callout fee if it ever goes wrong ? When was the last time you claimed ?

When he sobers up we can get a translation

It'll look the dogs bollocks mate.