Nickfromwales

As you like to tell me, “keep up”. The other cable looks like it goes around the back of the JB Pen..........

Yes.

Email sent

Cheers. ?. Sorry, last spoke with him re fixing the same but for his roof structure ?. My bad, scan reading strikes again. Point made though, as now even more critical.

Less yapping, more snapping ??

This is the roof, so shear is deffo a concern. +1 to thunderbolt, chalk n cheese. Roof, but still significant shear. Agree that the concrete screws are hit and miss, but that’s more to do with what they’re being driven into than the fixing itself. @recoveringacademic Ian, is there anything between the timber and the concrete that you’re relying on for purchase?

Chop chop.

So it didn't set like concrete then ? ??

Yes, apart from you don’t need to check his gas, unless he has altered the gas supply or flue. Do you have a pic of the expansion vessel for the UVC? Should be white or silver, about the size of a football or a bit bigger. Let’s check the ? out of this eh ?

Ok woody. Just can’t believe it’s not been connected to the boiler Gas is way cheaper !!!!!

No. You can dry install anything you like. It’s when you set it to work the liability instantly shifts completely on to the person who commissioned it. End of chat. Hes not allowed to do either. Fcuking course is like £180 and under so guys a penis.

Long and short is, he’s not qualified to work in unvented and therefore he cannot sign it off or register it. Simples.

G3 is the standard. They make this so chuffing easy.

Should read.....then into the zone valve ? Immersion is direct from the spur and has its own 2 step thermostatic regulation.

Not.

Have the builder and the new guy meet so the new guy can list the fcuk ups Easier for you to get paid ( make uncontested deduction ) then ?

Jesus. This guys underpants are going TNT overnight so he gets them to wear tomorrow. I’ve never, in 23 years on the tools, seen someone cut into a boiler PRV to add D2. AND ALL IN 15mm !!!!? Needs to be 22mm to tundish from outside, as long as the hydruluc ( calculated ) run isn’t >12m. If you tee into the boiler PRV then that too would need a tundish / air break and the downstream pipe work upsized to prob 28 or 35mm. Scrotum.

The reason it needs bigger pipe on D2 ( the open part of the tundish ) is because the 15mm D1 is forced out under pressure, whereas the D2 only has gravity to rely on for the water to drain away naturally. With the invert so close to the tundish, I'd have run that in 28mm. At the very least the first elbow after the tundish should have been a bend pulled in a pipe bending machine to give a nice radius. Its so easy to just do right, when you're already there with your tools out.

Ninja ! Did you get any issues with 'squeaking' or 'creaking' at all ? What m2 areas were they if you dont mind me asking? Ive only done smaller spaces with that, as all of the others have been in spreader plates.

Check out the Wunda Overlay system, link. You'll need to bond this system all down, so the issue will be, exactly how level is the B&B floor ? You may need to get some sharp sand and slid the B&B first to get it like a mill pond, because whatever you lay modular material on ( like 8x4's of insulation ) will be the floor you end up with. Check out their YT videos The heat is diffused by aluminium 'foil' facing on the upper side of the overlay panels, and its pretty damn efficient at emitting heat upwards. A~s you'll be asked to bond the floor down to this in most cases you'll end up with a floor that feels rock solid too. You'll need either more pipe or two manifolds if you have two differing types of emitters, eg slab and overlay mixed in the same dwelling, as the overlay will typically require a higher flow temp to get the same w/m2.

And even then the penis cant do it right! Jeez x2. 22mm D2 minimum pipe size. Maybe print him a few copies off to give to his previous victims?

"anyone seen my UVC ?"

Just for a bit of sanity, not ONE of my UVC install customers has EVER had a drip through their ceiling, and EVERY ONE has a tundish. Loads have been in attics btw I may go and spray some underpants with gold paint and give this guy the 2018............... “talking out of my arse” award. ?

No and fcuking NO! This guys a total prick. He’s admitting going around making installations lethal. FM! The picture he’s sent you clearly shows water has been running OVER that tundish not THROUGH it. We’ve got a real live one here Im stuck for words, and that is some achievement I can tell you. I woukd 1000% be getting an independent inspection done by someone not known to either you or the fitter. You’ll soon see the rap sheet filling up. Still love to know if he’s done the balanced feeds. I’ll bet my spare ribs he hasn’t. If you ring Telford they’ll give you the number of a local G3 installation agent that they use for maintenance / repairs etc. My mate went through a divorce and let his lapse on a big job so I rang Telford and it cost about £160 to get a guy out to G3 it all. He went through every last nut and bolt. You need this looking at so deffo hold some money back. Guys a tosser.

My 2 cents says if you manufactured with a flaw, eg a cavity between the Ali and the wood where interstitial condensation is promoted, then that a poor design. My point about cold bridging was that ‘cold’ shouldn’t be able to get ‘around’ ( beyond ) the thermal break. ? Agree with @nod as when the fruits bead up on the external angles and they end up fatter than the opening, then good luck when you go to open the window ( after the fitters have squeeze them in ) as they’ll hit the reveals Good practice would be to discuss this with the plasterers well in advance and flare the reveals sufficiently to take the depth of the corner bead.