Nickfromwales

"Say NO to drugs" .

Nowt worse than a new, clean pair of trousers to make you look like a Jessie . Wear your stinky pantaloons with pride. PS. PMSL. ??

Blogs are good Hu, and welcome aboard. Cheers .

And then Thursday came around Hi and welcome! If the question seems daft, it's probably the right question to ask Fire away

The smaller green one that originally had the cover missing and the wires exposed. That's the HRC pump. The one in the pic is the pump that's heats the PHE so it can produce hot water. Without that pump the PHE would stay cold and you'd get no heat into the cold water going into it. The PHE is an instant water heater but needs heat passing through the primary side of it first so it can pass that heat indirectly to the secondary side.

You do, but I doubt that whomever plumbed the system ran the HRC return pipework all the way to each basin so, although the system works, it's not reducing the delay for hot water as effectively as it could be. Better than nowt though, and you'd soon notice the difference if it wasn't working at all.

( whispers gently ) it's the green pump, behind that one

If the flow switch is on the cold directly before the TS DHW coil then it will only trigger when a hot tap is open, which would be my suggestion. Motion sensors will trigger the HRC pump even if you go in just to empty the linen basket

Page 53 Says 3 minute pump overrun.

Check with Worcester first as that boiler may have pump overrun. If it does, you need a 3-port mid-position valve and to go Y-plan. With overrun you cannot use 2-ports and S-plan

If there's good pressure and flow at the 32mm, then as above. If your not on the best of mains then go all the way to a 32mm x 22mm stopcock, as then you'll want to squeeze everything you can out of the mains supply.

To integrate the Aga you'll need a big thermal store to transfer the heat to the space heating ( if that's what your original question related to ? ) Benefit is you can then use it for DHW or DHW pre-heat to your separate hot water cylinder.

I wouldn't use SBR TBH. A good flexible tile primer will stay tacky after it dries. Ultra is my usual one if I can't get hold of my local N&C ( Nicobond ) stuff. Brickies and spreads tend to use PVA or SBR for everything, but I'd recommend sticking to products of the same family eg adhesive / primer alike. Just my 2-cents.

Much as it pains me to say it, they're a good machine these days. Go for it. ?

Yup. My mate asked me to lay on with him in a summer day, 4m x 8m ceiling. By the time we got it laid on and the first flat off I could just about hold my arms above my head. My fear is that The Onoff wont be able to walk away from the first set and he'll keep playing with it aka taking off everything he's just put on. You really have to switch off and just get the stuff on before even thinking about what it looks like.

Ok, ok. Where you've filled the joints, is that now flush or slightly proud ? How many coats of PVA in are you? Hopefully just the first pissy one and Nowt else ? From now on, PVA only goes on directly before laying on ok ? ? Try and do the skimming on cool or cold days, not in the late afternoon when the walks are warm and you'll get much longer to "play with it". The mix consistency is critical. I for eg mix up a lot thicker than my other spreads as I can't concentrate on keeping the mix on the hawk whilst changing angles and looking upwards, keeps falling off Too thick and you'll be labouring hard so best advice is, if it'll slide easily off the trowel it's a bit too thin. Plasterer's everywhere will disagree, but I'm not a plasterer, I'm just a plumber who can plaster and I can do it well ( far better than some spreads I've paid TBH ). I need you to swear first that you will NOT piss in any buckets let alone add piss to the plaster ? Need that in writing FIRST.

Multi will be fine over your joints as they're screwed to joists not dot n dab. . Relax, there's no need for any magical cures. Put the PVA on with a roller, slow and steady....the spray bottle just seems crazy messy to me. Were not bullying, that's just daft, but I will now politely request that we move forward constructively . So, that said, can we remove any doubt and declare that your plastering this all yourself now ?

Hot Return Circuit. The pump you have that ( when fitted correctly ) massively reduces the delay in getting hot water out of any outlet.

Iirc the WB Greenstar 12ri will drop to 6-7kW. That's what you want.

And your shoes ?

What happens on tour stays on tour.

You design it according to the remit . Does the OP want :- ? To run 2, 3, or 4 or more showers simultaneously.... To size the entire system to the dwelling, or to their actual needs.... Does the OP have sufficient cold mains flow / pressure to support the above? Are accumulators to be involved if mains is insufficient? Has a thermal store been fitted yet? Why specify a TS when this may be better off with a large UVC or pair of medium sized UVC's? Lets see how the hot water is going to be pushed around the building before deciding what the hot water system can / cannot do.

If the pipe is going to the showers, then one assumes it'll also be going to the basins in those rooms too. The showers are inconsequential as you just open the tap at high flow and wait, no bother at all there, but the basin taps will likely hardly ever see hot water when washing your hands briefly after using the loo. Hot recirculation circuit system is a no-brainer here afaic. Sounds like a big house too so I'd run the HRC to all outlets to maximise the cost / benefit. Running a HRC is not very costly, and if no concern whatsoever if you have PV to offset your energy consumption. That's exactly what @jacks plumbers did with wait times of 45 seconds for hot water to basins. I'd do the same eg 28-22-15mm series pipework and leave the manifolds, but I'd run the HRC to each bathroom 22mm supply where it tees and dropscto 15mm and super insulate all the hot and HRC pipework. More info please @Miller3857 !

Couldn't agree more about the fabric first approach. Why spend money building a less insulted house with a high temp heating system, with your income going towards tracking the cost of fossil fuel, when you can spend once on more insulation / MVHR / airtightness detailing and live cheaper forever? It need not cost a fortune with planning and a good degree of curiosity.

Stainless steel Panduit ties Cheap as chips We used them on RFA ships when removing redundant weapon systems. I had 3 agency electricians from Brazil and Portugal who lasted less than week before going off with repetitive stress injury from the tensioner that you have to use with them, plus you have to cut a piece of silicone rubber gasket to suit each time. The local Geordie shipwrights just stood there laughing as I watched 3 grown men walk around with bandages on going about their light duties.....on full pay Plus they managed to each snap at least two pairs of top quality Wiss tinsnips because they didn't understand to use the back of the jaws not the bloody tips. Cue cheap flights home