Nickfromwales

And the boiler is a paperweight. As WB are a bunch of tossers, you need to spend a fortune and ask their permission to convert from LPG to natural gas. With Vaillant you just buy a sticker for £6 and turn the screw on the gas valve. 15 mins work. Unless your willing to wait a long time to sell it, don't buy the boiler. 150L is for a 1 / 2 bed flat .

FYI my mate was £120 for all the cuts in that black and white tiled room that everyone loves so much. Beer money.

Put the cut edges against a full tile to see what it looks like sat next to a dead straight other tile. Tbh the cuts will stay in pairs so no need to be laser straight.

That's called keep ya beak out ! Ask if you can bond them to a PB and lay it out with blobs of silicone. They can lay it on the bed and let them plot it. You'll snap the ends offeirh a scribe and snap most prob as you've got ceramic yea? Porcelain you could scribe and then snap over a dowel, ceramic doesn't do so well. Maybe see if you can buy a 3mm wheel for your cutter ?

And then you have control and maintain the hedge for the rest of your days ?!? ?

Solicitors letter and give a deadline for the fence to be moved back. State if its not done you'll be doing it for him, via contractors, and they'll be paying for it. No messing, 30 days and not a day more. Clearly a piss-taker. Not the tenants fault, the LL is 100% responsible ( or irresponsible as the case appears ).

If he just blankly ignored you and fitted it to your wall, time for an 8-pack and a chainsaw me thinks. Just what my mate did after getting the FO from his neighbour over pretty much the same thing.

Sock bin? Gonna need an MVHR extract in there

If going combi > UFH manifold without buffer then you really need a bypass between flow and return just before the manifold. Use a 22mm lock shield gate valve so it cant be inadvertently adjusted. Try it first set at 75% open and see if the UFH manifold still gets to the set flow temp. The UFH manifold will still pull all the hot water it needs so dont worry about the bypass being open, just VERY important not to have the boiler pump going 70MPH and the manifold pump going 30MPH and them fighting it out. It should really go to a low loss header or buffer to hydraulically isolate the two pumps from each other. Boiler can blast into the buffer, and the UFH can just trickle through the other side of the buffer and do its own thing. Boiler will then only fire to reheat the buffer instead of constantly running its internal pump and adding a lot more mileage ( and shortening its life cycle ), same with the boiler fan. Should be ; Boiler fires up at 55oC ( no higher eg to promote condensing ) and heats the buffer. Buffer gets to temp and the buffer stat tells boiler to go dead / standby. UFH pulls from the other side of the buffer. Buffer then cools and the buffer stat tells the boiler to fire again. Repeat. Everything gets to temp and the boiler cycles get further apart. When heatings not needed the buffer stays cold. Best solution is to put the buffer in the airing cupboard ( or the hot-press if your a big fan of potatoes ) so the seasonal heat given off goes towards airing the laundry.

For the pointy cuts, go in from the narrow end at least 2", then turn the tile around to complete the cut or the pointy bit will break off with the vibration of the cutter wheel. Remember when you cut a tile, if you plan on a grout line between it and its partner you'll end up with a 303mm tile not a 300mm tile and it all goes tits up. Thats why I had mine water jetted so the cut took out 3mm of material.

I've a way with words.....what can I say.

Mop the concrete with a dilute primer such as FlexiPrime. Do NOT tank until you are 100% ready to tile. Literally the day before. You'll just scuff it and ruin it. Total waste of time and money if your not laying tiles the next day.

2 stand alone items thats all. A box of tricks to make it a quick fit is the attractive bit, pre-plumbed / wired it says so a few quid saved on installer complexity too.

@nod You tiling straight on to the P5?

Hi and welcome. Go to the text you want to quote and highlight it, mouse and drag or click and select. After you select at least one word a drop box will appear saying "quote selection" and you'll get the result above. The above will help deal with the Jargon

Dont we need to say his name 3 times before he appears ?

Thats one of the options yes

5 year plan, Nick.

In a high-energy consuming property the balance shifts towards MCS / RHI, so you would need to 'do the maths'. That may also be a good marketing legacy as the RHI is over 7 years ( domestic ) so may get handed over to the new owners. Just need to be sure your not still paying the loan off in 10 years time

Prob best not to ask

They're an interesting solution. Pleased do update when you get any info, thanks.

A larger unit won't cost more to run The energy required by the dwelling dictates the cost of whats produced / consumed. If it takes, for eg, 24kW of energy to heat your TS then it won't take more from a bigger ASHP, it'll just shorten the time taken to get there. It'll still have only used 24kW The benefit of the bigger unit would be quieter running as it would be using a smaller amount of its capacity, eg fan running slower etc.

Is he not aware of a product called Artex ?

Only admin can grant blog rights. @PeterW or @JSHarris. We simple mods cower in the sidelines, fearful of ever feeling their wrath. ☠️

......."or I could just make a paint sprayer" ?