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Showing results for tags 'wunda'.
Found 4 results
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Hi folks, We're renovating our 1930s semi and as part of that installing wet UFH. We've already done it in part of the house that's a 1980s extension and used the metal joist spreader plates, this works well. Unfortunately, in the 1930s part of the house the joists aren't the current standard of width apart so I can't install spreader plates. Wunda support (who have been fantastic thus far) suggested two options: Batten perpendicular to the joists to the correct width. Install chipboard directly onto the joists then stick Wundatherm panels over the top. Both options we lose 20mm off the floor. A builder suggested doing a thin concrete screed, but that's out of my skillset. The benefits of option 2 are not having to install insulation between the joists and not having to faff with battening. Just replace the original timber floor with 22m chipboard and glue it down. Has anyone done something similar? How did you find it? We were at the flooring supplier yesterday (looking at QuickStep engineered wood) and they said you need to make sure the floor is super flat else it will be squeaky and the boards may separate over time. Anyone experienced that? -
I'm fitting Wunda UFH downstairs on top of an insulated screed with laminate boards on top throughout (did want engineered wood but don't have the cash!!). My question is what thickness of laminate will be ok? We have seen some in the colour and finish we like (we've looked at hundreds as we're really fussy!) but it is only 8mm rather than the 12mm we have previously assumed would be the minimum. We have some heavy furniture and an american fridge/freezer etc and I'm worried that 8mm laminate might be too flexible and the wunda boards will end up getting compessed under the heavy items. Any thoughts?
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I only got to use my UFH for a month at the beginning of the year when @Nickfromwales and @PeterW fixed it for me as it's been switched off for summer ever since. Now that I've switched it back on in 2 rooms I thought I had better try to understand how it operates a bit more. So first questions: On the TS there are 2 cylinder stats. The top one is set to 65C and the bottom one to 45C. When a room calls for heat what determines whether the boiler switches on? The bottom cylinder stat at 45C? And when it gets to 45C the boiler switches off? And if the hot water is switched on I assume the boiler will stay on until the top cylinder stat is at 65C or the time stops? So the cylinder stats are for different purposes and work independently? Last night it took a fair while for the temp to rise from 17C to 20C and the boiler kicked out 37kw over the course of last night and first thing this morning. Maybe I should have expected this the first time the slab has had to heat up this year however .... This morning when I got up it was at 20C and it hasn't dropped at all today so the heating hasn't come on yet tonight which is a good thing I guess. It hasn't been baltic outside today however. Will be interesting to see how much it drops when it's colder.
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.....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?
