Nickfromwales

Passive house ( aka well insulated build ). Sorry, a bit late and I'm cream krackered.

Just for your sanity, popping a soil pipe through a PH wall will not bring the 4 horseman knocking

The vent can be on any exterior elevation, can exit through the roof centrally on a stand alone SVP run etc but cannot vent at ground level near the property / adjacent to neighbours property / other point where the 'stench' would be a nuisance. The vent is to get the gasses out of the network, so can get quite stinky. As for the insulation, I'd buy some self adhesive neoprene insulation tape and wrap the outside of the pipe to the point it becomes exposed inside / outside, sealing and weatherproofing accordingly.

Strange......you normally drink it

If you are on network / mains for sewerage, then each property has to provide a minimum of 1 vent to atmosphere. Making that external SVP ( soil vent pipe ) your vent to atmosphere will encourage it to become a cold vent, but unless you have made provision for a vent elsewhere youll have to go for that regardless to satisfy the BCO. Any other rising SVP can then terminate in an AAV ( air admittance valve ), making things easier for the other internal waste connections. What you 'can' do is get BCO signoff and then take the vent cap off the external stack and replace it with another AAV, thus massively reducing the cold draught that would otherwise continue to be problematic. Can you exit the building, then turn left or right slightly and drop / rise off to one side of the point that the pipe exits the building? Basically, if your stuck with the vent to atmosphere, can you put a bit of distance between the exit point of the build fabric and the natural (rising / passing ) path of the venting air? What insulation has been used? I would recommend filling the gap around the pipe with expanding foam as it will help insulate the pipe.

They'll join up fine with solvent weld. +1 to using a cleaner, and I also scratch the surfaces up first with 80 grit paper first so the shine is off them. Its also good if you can get a bit of a twist action rather than just push them home. Polypipe solvent cement 'gap filler' is the glue for this. link. Don't use normal solvent weld if your not familiar with making these off as its much thinner and the gaps are greater with this mix of pipe / fittings types ;).

Fire rated is only applicable if there is a 'deemed habitable' room above. You're 100% off the hook there.

Not necessarily in the living room, but as an alternative for areas you'd consider fitting a 'regular spotlight'.

Different types of downlights can have much shallower depths I personally prefer the led flat panel ( 180mm round ) LED types nowadays, and the light is just spectacularly better than a single small spot. There are instances where I will still fit a 'regular spotlight' but they need to be a nice looking fitting with no horrible visible clip / other to retain the lamp. EDIT : You are single storey too, so no need for fire rated fittings so much more choice

Should read MASSIVELY improved sound proofing. It really makes a huge difference in my direct experience. PIR is pretty ‘transparent’ as a wrap for a home. @Dreadnaught I’d stick to your guns and see if the 300mm sections can simply be fabricated in smaller sections as a couple of days of extra man handling is nothing for the MBC team imo. The best thing to do is tell the MBC guys that they CANNOT do it, and watch them then prove you wrong ?. ???

Fill the bath with water and grout. Leave it full until the grout has cured then empty it. Wipe all the grout dust off, and give the lot a good polish. Get your silicone gun out and do all the internal angles until your happy. Bingo chuffing Bango. ??

I don’t use CT1 for final / cosmetic sealing because IT IS AN ABSOLUTE FECKING PIG to work with. It really is horrible. Great for purpose, but just SO much hard work getting anything less than a small bead. Silicone is great for cosmetic stuff, and is easily removed when tired so can be redone with ease. Try that with CT1 at your peril. Anything with microban in it for ‘no black crap’ is a winner. Silicone cleans up easily too and is quite a bit cheaper.

Hmm. They just keep on about how amazing it is. 35mm including the deck is ambitious. This must rely on pre-installed insulation surely?

Who installed your unit ?

Nobody on here would hang themselves by answering that. Its an SE or an early grave.

Its no problem at all. You go the the RSJ aka UC shop and buy one

Joins in composite are common, and are present on most turns in the direction of the worktop. Its down to how diligent the fitter is.

Small steel. Its too cheap to even consider concrete imo. And concrete pads

Not that bad if it saves you a few £k on a new lift

Much cheaper on CU's ( consumer units ) then too

I'm sure you can get single phase to 3 phase convertors. Dont quote me on it though

No reason not too at all, other than converting to 15mm. Done it a few times where the pipe was over-ordered.

Yes, lets please keep this thread concise, thanks.

I like that idea. Cheap as chips, and no need to paint it ( the uPVC ) ever.

T'was only yesterday we were discussing the making of the electric wackaplate Looking good, and not that far to go 2019 is the deadline.