Nickfromwales

I'm not a fan of bonding directly to the 'laminate' top layer of Caber so that's just me. Seen enough decoupled to put me off. 2-part aka fastflex / ultraflex is an option in extreme situations ( more expensive than unicorn piss ) but a good exchange HERE for your perusal.

It’s not “where does it get its cold from”....it’s “there’s my blending valve that only allows X amount of heat in” The ‘cold’ is the heated water in the loops which needs topping back up ( an exchange takes place in the blending valve where cooled water is ejected by fresh heated water being allowed in under the pressure of the pump flow ).

Beware mould release agent on the underside of the tray ( from the manufacture process ). I use the tile adhesive like Ajax and scrub the bottom of the tray until I can see the adhesive wanting to stick to it, and then sponge it off. Apply a bit more as a bed for the tray to set into the adhesive you've applied to the floor.

Same applies, re the prime and flexible tile adhesive.

Forget sand and cement, its the worst advice given by far Ideally you should be gluing and screwing at least a 6mm layer of plywood down and then sticking the trays down into a bed of flexible tile adhesive. Wet / prime the ply first and then it'll stick like shit to a blanket.

If its sat directly above the 'buffer' and needs no lengthy pipework ( wasted time and fittings / pipe ) then yes, will do the job. You should know by now that I hate header tanks / open pipe systems ?

Just add a small EV and fill it up manually. Sealed kit

Depends if the TF company offers a turnkey solution.

That can be of benefit, as the layers outside of the tray area bring you close to a flush floor / level entry into the shower. What you have to do is watch the point loading of the bath feet. For me I'd run the insulation board within about 100mm of the feet and then backfill the remaining void with self leveller / tile adhesive so where all 4 / 5 bath feet hit the deck there is solid tile > adhesive > deck underneath.

Wont a TF kit supplier encompass the SE side on your behalf? Seems an odd statement to just get you to engage these professional so soon in the process. The QS I agree on, but I'd have thought you nedd to get a bit more ground covered with your architect first maybe? Do you have a draft design that you've settled on yet?

Goes without saying Close up of the plumbing shows one pipe teed back into the other. Have you gone with a hot return?

The Tesla, AFAIA, has a limited throughput. Therefore, all that glitters ( and wow! does the Tesla glitter ) is not gold. For the given constraint on throughput, it is quite likely that you will invalidate your warranty by default before the unit suffers the expiry of its given ( broadcasted ) warranty period. Other manufacturers give an unlimited throughput, ( this is NOT often discussed, and apologies as I'm currently force-feeding myself on this subject and can only respond in line with current and ongoing 'enlightenment' ), and this should receive some serious recognition. Basically some manufacturers safeguard their arses by fitting an 'odometer', and when you've exceed the obligatory 100,000 mile mark, you're on your own. @vivienz is going for a system / supplier that I am working with, and they also supply ( 1000's of to date ) the Sofar system. They have, after in-depth and probably annoyingly and persistent hounding from myself, come up with a system that harmonises two battery controller / inverters to double the useable output to the house to around 7.2kW, which changes things dramatically when considering a battery system. Its still WiP but I'm confident this could be a game-changer for folk who have got to the tipping point of buying batteries and then backed out. More to follow, when I fully know what the Bobby Moore is. Questions welcome.

Oh, and maybe this bit of info will be of morale benefit in your hour of need :- If this was a retail bathroom, and I was charging for everything you have done to date, the price would be north of £20k. That's a lot of the weird shit you've drunk since this began. ?

"That's another fine mess you've got us into" lol. That's a pig of a cut to perform, but you've got this far Mitigate against damaging the other tile by putting a piece of metal tile trim / metal angle over the other tiles, inserted into the grout line and taped into place, and set about it with a sober hand and a level of determination unheard of until now. "You can do it, Deeds!". Go get it tiger, not long now

One is the norm, prior to insulating usually ( if blown cellulose is the weapon of choice ). I guess the two test argument is if you want to be sure that you haven't reduced the buildings integrity after the initial test proves 'positive'. MBC do their test once as they simply want to know that they have satisfied their part of the contract, as they guarantee the result of <0.6 so just need to be able to demonstrate that at the handover. A second test on that pretence would only be for the homeowner to confirm that follow on trades haven't subsequently turned the house into swiss cheese. For me, I'd HAVE to have the second test done, for my own sanity, but others may value a night out in favour of such worries. If certification is involved then the second test may be ( with good reason ) mandatory. Certainly not a bad thing AFAIC.

Another option

Happy days

Ah, just re-read. The pelmet is applicable if you haven't had to put FR on the walls eg brick / block construction. With 2 layers on the walls AND floors the junction integrity is there. Just giving general info out is sometimes too general. @mvincentd take note please.

Plan well, and consider where recessed items may be fitted later ( such as FR spots / speakers with FR hoods etc ) and pull the ducts once. got caught out a few times and had to pull out and reinstate a couple, but you'll get the hang of it if you're the 'hands on' type. If you're feeling brave, its far less wasteful if you can at least provisionally fit the outlet 'boots' and terminate as you go. A lot easier to see where you're runs will actually end up if you have given yourself visible targets. The 'all round' metal band to mount the duct securely came from Screwfix.

The MVHR has a heat pump, so will provide some comfort cooling to iron out any spikes in room temperature. Although probably unnecessary in the real world it was deemed that preserving the cooled air after paying to produce it seemed reasonable enough to keep a few packs of the duct insulation and fit it to the longest runs. Prevention and cure etc. The 6x ducts for the upstairs 3 bedroom supply runs ( additional insulation was only on 4 of the ground floor supply ducts BTW ) were completely encapsulated in blown cellulose, so just thought why not even things out as the stuff isn't expensive. FYI, the duct insulation that is available via most reputable MVHR suppliers is readily available with a bit of googling for around 1/2 what the suppliers charge for it. Found out that when I saw the stuff in the flesh and thought ? "TLC Direct sell that".....link

Food for thought, and a bloody good point if the garage is the back door to the dwelling. Discuss people !!

Chuck the lot in the garage. Only thing I do as routine is fit an emergency light by the CU so you can see if the lighting circuit has gone off. Fire control can be managed with FR exp foam. If plaster-boarding, then chuck a sheet of FR on before the CU goes on.

Maybe different regs in the land of the haggis Down here its a standard detail to satisfy building regs, and the purpose is to ensure a dead stop at the periphery of the FR ceiling for fire egress. Basically takes the ceiling FR boarding from a layer to a 'tray'. I think the vertical gap against breeze block / brick ( typical ) walls was never good enough to just seal, so the pelmet completes the system a treat IMO.

Mostly copper IIRC.