Nickfromwales

25 years for me so you get grandfather rights over me lol ?. When you stand in a bathroom and look directly down the wall to the floor, on one of my tiling jobs, all you see is tile. The grout line that’s left when you tile the floor afterwards, and I have had to do it that way a few times, isn’t acceptable to my OCD, plus under grouting ( under the last cut wall tile ) vs grouting the gap between the cut floor tile and the existing bottom wall tile isn’t cricket. If you silicone over that on one of my jobs.....you’d be sacked on the spot too ??. My bathrooms are as near to ‘silicone free’ as I can get them. Hate the stuff. A lot of the tiles these days can be bought to compliment wall - floor junctions. So if the grout lines are to go down one wall / through the floor / back up the opposite wall, on both the parallel and perpendicular grout lines then tiling the floor first is absolutely the only option. Antinox or 4mm plywood will give ample floor protection.

A TS with a 22mm DHW coil gives LOTS of DHW flow, but I have gone to 28mm when combined with either an accumulator or a damn good cold mains. I have only ever fitted coil types so have no experience of TiT versions sorry. Can’t say I like the idea though as the heat transfer rate in the coil version is excellent, whereas a) the TiT version probably needs time to recover and b) it’s only 80L......

Maybe. But..... I wouldn’t fit multi panel as it’s a ticking time bomb. I did a whole house ( all bathrooms ) for an Ebuild member and indeed tiled the floors / fitted shower trays first, then scribed the Mermaid panels with a router, and dropped the bottoms of the panels into a 1/2” bead of clear CT1. The excess that displaced after pushing the panels down and home was removed by wet wipes and CT1 Multi Solve spray and I’ll bet my left testicle that they’ll be watertight until I snuff it. Jobs as good as you make it ?

KISS

Not on my shift mate ?. Always floor first and then tile up and away. The only time I break that rule is if it’s mosaic in a specific area and I’ll then size the opening to take full sheets of mosaic. If you’ve tanked and sealed properly you don’t have to panic about that detail. It is preferable but not life or death. I’ve done enough “grief free” wetrooms to know ? A true Wetroom install should be OK to use WITHOUT EVER TILING IT, remember that and you’ll be fine. ?

Put the gmail app on and just use that directly ( is what I do ).

TRV’s don’t need to be “smart” just £10 a pop and you’re cooking on gas ? There are open source intelligent / smart options available, and IIRC @DamonHD has such a system available. Send him a PM for details. I’d try that option first VS the buffer chop & change and see if the cycling reduces enough to not be problematic. One towel rad could make all the difference as you can include the volume in all the connective pipe work too.

As you’re looking to be buffering kWh’s of heat and not looking to add volume per se, then you really would benefit from a sizeable buffer tank, eg minimum 100L but preferably 200L tbh. A super insulated vessel is recommended unless it can be sited to utilise the waste ( latent ) heat loss beneficially eg in an airing cupboard or strategically positioned on the ground floor to contribute to local heat requirements. A low loss header will do very little to improve things as they’re normally utilised to attain hydraulic separation ( vs a dedicated buffer ). Your best bet would be to have the radiator zone valve always open whenever UFH is selected, and have one strategic radiator on manual valves as a bypass / heat loss radiator. You would again need to have that allocated where it would be advantageous / not a nuisance ( airing cupboard or bathroom towel rad(s) for eg ). The boiler will quickly heat up a small buffer, and then you’re back into the flames from the frying pan.

The Gledhill provides your DHW though, so it’s a thermal store not a buffer, it just buffers as a by-product

You can’t if it’s a combi I as it’ll need it’s full kW rating to produce DHW Producing heating actually requires a much smaller energy input vs firing up to produce DHW. That’s a 40kW high-flow ( that refers to hot water production not heating ) combi do you cannot do anything to reduce its max output capability or it’ll give warm not hot water.

Is the suction side fed from a dip-pipe? If the water level gets low enough when the pump is at full wallop there is a risk of sucking in air and water not just water. Even so, if the pump is at the source then this should not be problematic as water will eventually get through. Is the pump ‘man enough’? FYI Air admittance valves AAV’s will let air in as well as out, so could add to your problems instead of curing them.

Have you fitted a non return valve ?

Hi Damon. Good to see you posting here. Apologies for the glitch.

GSR’d fitter required if the case you have to remove to get access to the duff part forms part of the air / flue / combustion chamber. Look for any notes in the MI’s that state any disturbed seals need to be replaced. I would concur that it’s a PCB fault as it sounds like a relay has gone grotty and is allowing voltage through when energised but not when in the ‘normal’ state.

Just bin the thing. If it went anywhere near prematurely it’s probably down to continuously rubbing against a surface imperfection on the inside of the vessel. Move on and don’t waste time / money, they’re just too cheap to buy / replace.

The noise comes from the unit itself in most cases. I’m routinely fitting Brink units atm and they’re really well respected ‘in the industry’ as the weapon of choice ( when PH certification levels of quiet are the requisite ). Brink do a range of bolt on ( manufacture specific ) silencers now, so I’m going to trial those and see how they compare to the normal / knee-jerk flexible acoustic attenuators in real life. Current ones I’m fitting in a high-demand dwelling are the box attenuators which are a metre long !!! Bloody big game of Jenga currently going on in that plant room ! Compare apples with apples here though, as some MVHR units have integral heat pumps for auxiliary heating / cooling, which are noisy if not high - specification units, or standard MVHR units with just heat recovery which are very quiet out of the box.

Maybe to remove metal from a cold ventilated space? Even though they’re not in ‘direct contact’ maybe it was a wise precaution.

As long as it’s metal and CE marked them it should be fine. Fitted plenty of “double-decker” CU’s in the part.

@AnonymousBosch Steer clear of MK. I’ve heard from my spark and other merchants that their possibly disappearing off shelves some time soon.

£1000 / £250 = 4 RCBO’s then. Plus the CU itself. More like a £2500-£3k CU.

Not as crazy as it first sounds for sure. Especially when you have freezing cold water entering a porcelain cistern in a warm house. TBH, if I was providing for that remit I would fit a local accumulator ~30L to blend ambient temp water with the incoming cold to provide some uplift. Or tank feed the loo.

Just simply adding more stagnant cold water volume between the boiler and the hot outlet. It's only really problematic for the basins / sinks where high frequency / low volume consumption occurs.

It’ll also heat the cylinder faster ?

Get a 15kW boiler and set it up as W-plan ( DHW priority ) and the boiler will only ever do heating OR hot water, and never the two together ? edit: agree to oversize slightly and go for an 18kW unit.

If they get supplied directly, from source, and on 15mm supplies then probably not that much more of an impact tbh. If you have separate isolatable runs from source anyway, is there any actual need for the manifolds ? ?