Nickfromwales

Exactamundo. If you want me to talk this through with your replacement plumber ( easily identifiable by them NOT wearing a straight-jacket ) then PM me.

Ah, OK. Just so you know, written posts on the internet / by folk on here, much as mine do also, can be seen a bit blunt or as if we’re having a bit of a dig. For clarity, any dig is at your installer and absolutely not at you. We will of course help you as much as we can You don’t need any replacement kit btw, just the whole lot needs to be reinstalled / reconfigured. Then you’ll be back up and running in no time. The kit here stands zero chance as it’s simply all installed arse over tit. Do you know a good plumber with some patience? Hopefully the wiring side will need little or no intervention, as long as the actuator cables will all reach the manifold locations after the shuffle.

Pumps upside down, so it’s a train-wreck. No way the MI’s ever said to fit it this way. Clearly been Frankenstein’d for convenience to the installer.

There is also absolutely ZERO way they your pump should be upside down!! This is a mess and I expect the pump / thermostatic valve orientations have been set up in confusion to make a left hand installation suit a right hand arrangement as far as plumbing / pipework is concerned. This needs a major removal and refitting. Stop tweaking, get a plumber, or the person who fitted this badly to come back and do it the right ( correct ) way.

OK. Can you give us a clear close up of the flow gauges please? Can you support that with some additional info; 1) are they 0 - 5 from top to bottom on the clear body of the flow indicators, and 2) who told you these work by being pushed upwards? Not seen one do that yet, and every single one I’ve done ( lots ) has been pulled downwards by flow generated in the flow manifold rail and never have I done one that pushes the flow gauge upwards. Happy to see that you’re setup is different, but I just need to ascertain.what’s going on there first. One thing is obvious, your installer decided to just put whatever they wanted wherever they felt like it. Actuators up on one, down on the other?!? Who installed all of this?? You say the flow gauges are showing zero, I say they are being forced to zero by the water pushing them to the park position.

Ok, that’s all good if your BCO has green-lighted your green blob The base of the stack 1000% needs to be a rest bend, and the branch to collect the kitchen needs to be a Y branch set at least 600-800mm downstream between the rest bend and the chamber ( IMO ). As always, your BCO resides above everyone here as they will be signing it off…….but it sounds like your BCO is a pragmatic fellow, happy days! Some are total cocks. Understood regarding the chamber to the kitchen So; All systems go. “Carry on!”. 👍

They’re for lunch usually. Away in hotels a lot atm so I choose nice ones where the chef knows how to poach an egg at least Surprising how many don’t !!

Pesto Cod fillet on a bed of “wilted” greens, ill have you know. America IPA ( Shipyard ) is providing the necessary lubrication to wash it all down 👍

That should keep Shirley quiet for 15 mins

Chill, Winston. Do you have another inspection elbow on site? If so, can you post a pic of the internal bore for ‘er indoors aka @PeterW ?

Nope. The insert of that particular inspection elbow is a very flush and snug fit, with the internal bore of the bend nigh on smooth and ‘snag-free’.

How exactly are all the connections to come together at one invert at the “green blob” (lol)? Assuming the red line connects at 1st floor? Anyhoo…… You cannot have a change of direction for food wastes or ‘solids’, so main kitchen run would need to be direct to the inspection chamber, and the green stack rising would also connect to the same inspection chamber, each with their own inlet / spur. The green stack cannot drop into a branch, it MUST drop to a supported REST bend and that must go in a straight line to the chamber. In an ideal world, you would be taking the underground foul pipe around to the back of the house and you’d be fitting another inspection chamber just for the kitchen.

Have another look…… It isn’t a ‘full drop’ it’s just a small drop from horizontal. The only thing I would have done differently here would have been to use a 135 bend into a 135 branch, with the open end on horizontal having the cleaning / rodding eye. @Thorfun, you can relax. The plumbing grinch is being too picky here IMO, and the clip immediately after it is sufficient support AFAIC.

Modern units sized appropriately are actually very quiet indeed. They wouldn’t be destined for my bedrooms if not

Would you have switched on air con in those rooms if it was there? eg over the recent ( brief ) summer. The only thing rads can do is heat, air con can both heat and cool. @Digger1 FYI, the second I can take some bloody time off work I am going to ‘plumb’ my house for A2A in the 5 bedrooms and the landing, plus my shed ( office / man cave ) for sure. Rads will very likely be removed from those rooms as I can make much better use of the floor space then with the split units up high / over doors etc where that is already dead space. I’d say more ill-informed and a bit long in the tooth Prob saying exactly what I would have said 10 years ago. The other inefficiency that you must factor in, is with gas / rads you;’d need to get the boiler lit / up to temp / heat up all the large bore pipework / and all of that needs adding in. Plus bedrooms will usually only need a whiff of heat, so if they’re calling independently the boiler will prob not spend much time fully condensing. AC is a great place to send any excess PV to, after DHW is satisfied.

40 lashes. Assume nothing.

I’ve just realised, you’re causing yourself a bit of unnecessary pain and suffering by not using fittings from the underground ( orange coloured ) range. These will give you 15o and 30o bends, whereas it looks like you’re mostly ( ore exclusively ) using 45o ( aka 135o ) bends?

Yup. 👍

Right…… Number one schoolboy error. On a run supporting something such as this, you need to fit a clip, on the pipework, immediately prior to each fitting either end. If it looks like a see-saw, gues what it'll do

Just chuck an 80 grit flapper wheel in the grinder and dispense of these acts of tomfoolery…..

@pocster spent 1/2 a day trying to charge them before fitting them……..

Silence, fool. PV then, indirectly, but Steibel Eltron ASHP install this week…..( well almost, was a fail to launch today, even with the best will in the world sometimes it’s better to re-convene…. ). However; Never too busy to prevent you from giving poor plumbing or grouting advice.

“Disappointed”? I’ll be absolutelyfcukingbesidesmyselftothepointofinconsolable ……..

The only failed tiled floors I’ve replaced have been where a binder such as ply or membrane hasn’t been used At the absolute minimum you must install a 3.6 ( aka 4mm ) plywood binder, glued down and screwed at 100-120mm centres to give something for the adhesive to get its teeth stuck into. That, or a decoupling membrane such as Ditra. Unless you hugely improve the insulation ( and draught-proofing ) then I would not go with UFH. You’ll be running it nigh-on constantly in the winter, in an ever-losing battle against the significant amount of ventilation and fabric heat losses associated with this type / age of structure. To put UFH over a cold-ventilated subfloor is a difficult task to manage in terms of heat and energy requirements, even in a modern build with block and beam. Rads will give almost immediate heat to the spaces, so you can time the heating-on times to better suit your needs. UFH will likely never turn off in the winter, instead you’ll be toggling between economy heating tempos and then comfort to stave off the long recovery times that the UFH will promote. If you can install some 20mm strips of Compacfoam atop each joist to kill off cold bringing then that will pay big dividends from not creating cold ‘spots’ at each junction, plus that’ll allow you and additional 20mm void to fill with more PIR.

Not anyone I know, and not on any of my turnkey passive clients builds…… Prob best to leave him keep running, as he prob just doesn’t understand what is required to maintain the airtight envelope.