Nickfromwales

That one ideally needs to be the same, with a Y branch and a 45 going in to it. Edited as I was looking at the same pic twice lol. More coffee required……

BCO will be happy it’s not a rest bend btw, as long as you fit a clip ( rubberised clamps ) immediately on the output of the branch, and another immediately behind it where it picks up the second incoming foul.

People!? It matters not one jot what colour it is…… It’s never going to be the first part of the guided tour when Auntie Mabel comes to visit with the twins ffs

Spot on. BCO will be plenty happy with it fitted internally, just can’t be outside above ground. @Thorfun Get over the mix / match of underground fittings as you’ll be needing some. That branch, the one tight against the basement wall, needs to be a Y branch not a T branch, with a 135o single socket 45 into it to collect the bottom of the ‘drop’ from above. That’ll put the brown dolphins and they’re associated paperwork travelling in the right direction for sure . You wont be able to change to a rest bend as you’ll still need the rear open socket from the Y branch to pick up the second incoming foul pipe.

Spray foam insulation has to be the clear winner here? A thin layer of closed cell to detail all the gaps and seal from moisture travel, there a good 100-150mm of open cell atop that. The fabric improvements will be completely and utterly decimated by ventilation losses here though, so unless you go to forced heated air input, as well as the foam and beads, plus plugging every gap you find ( very well ) this will just be a losing battle imho. You’ll need the heated air input to keep an acceptable ACH for air quality / managing internal humidity etc, even if that’s then very small. +1 to not having any airflow, as that’s the cause of the condensation, just go tight to the corrugated panels with the closed cell foam, and lose the gaps 100%. This is a big, “thermally unfriendly” building in which to achieve what you’re looking for, so either all in or don’t bother starting afaic Pointless putting good money and effort in to not move forwards, or make it worse. The space blanket is a waste of space…….blanket. Looking at the height of the roller shutter, even a mezzanine with storage may be an option, doubling the floor space for storage, dependant on whether, as a petrol-head, you’ll be installing a lift or 2 of course? You may be able to DIY the foam, but I’d just bite the bullet and get it separated by a company set up to do this quickly and efficiently. DIY kits will probably work out expensive over this volume.

NOPE! Stop hoping for a quick fix please. The pump needs to be the right way around, the flow and return need to be plumbed to drop down and come in at the level of the lower rail, and the thermostatic valve will, ergo, be at the bottom level too. Sleep well, for tomorrow you will find a new plumber and heating happiness. There is absolutely nothing you can do the the existing arrangement by rubbing some hope ointment into it. Needs a full re-work, prob 2 days work at least for a conscientious plumber.

Exactamundo. If you want me to talk this through with your replacement plumber ( easily identifiable by them NOT wearing a straight-jacket ) then PM me.

Ah, OK. Just so you know, written posts on the internet / by folk on here, much as mine do also, can be seen a bit blunt or as if we’re having a bit of a dig. For clarity, any dig is at your installer and absolutely not at you. We will of course help you as much as we can You don’t need any replacement kit btw, just the whole lot needs to be reinstalled / reconfigured. Then you’ll be back up and running in no time. The kit here stands zero chance as it’s simply all installed arse over tit. Do you know a good plumber with some patience? Hopefully the wiring side will need little or no intervention, as long as the actuator cables will all reach the manifold locations after the shuffle.

Pumps upside down, so it’s a train-wreck. No way the MI’s ever said to fit it this way. Clearly been Frankenstein’d for convenience to the installer.

There is also absolutely ZERO way they your pump should be upside down!! This is a mess and I expect the pump / thermostatic valve orientations have been set up in confusion to make a left hand installation suit a right hand arrangement as far as plumbing / pipework is concerned. This needs a major removal and refitting. Stop tweaking, get a plumber, or the person who fitted this badly to come back and do it the right ( correct ) way.

OK. Can you give us a clear close up of the flow gauges please? Can you support that with some additional info; 1) are they 0 - 5 from top to bottom on the clear body of the flow indicators, and 2) who told you these work by being pushed upwards? Not seen one do that yet, and every single one I’ve done ( lots ) has been pulled downwards by flow generated in the flow manifold rail and never have I done one that pushes the flow gauge upwards. Happy to see that you’re setup is different, but I just need to ascertain.what’s going on there first. One thing is obvious, your installer decided to just put whatever they wanted wherever they felt like it. Actuators up on one, down on the other?!? Who installed all of this?? You say the flow gauges are showing zero, I say they are being forced to zero by the water pushing them to the park position.

Ok, that’s all good if your BCO has green-lighted your green blob The base of the stack 1000% needs to be a rest bend, and the branch to collect the kitchen needs to be a Y branch set at least 600-800mm downstream between the rest bend and the chamber ( IMO ). As always, your BCO resides above everyone here as they will be signing it off…….but it sounds like your BCO is a pragmatic fellow, happy days! Some are total cocks. Understood regarding the chamber to the kitchen So; All systems go. “Carry on!”. 👍

They’re for lunch usually. Away in hotels a lot atm so I choose nice ones where the chef knows how to poach an egg at least Surprising how many don’t !!

Pesto Cod fillet on a bed of “wilted” greens, ill have you know. America IPA ( Shipyard ) is providing the necessary lubrication to wash it all down 👍

That should keep Shirley quiet for 15 mins

Chill, Winston. Do you have another inspection elbow on site? If so, can you post a pic of the internal bore for ‘er indoors aka @PeterW ?

Nope. The insert of that particular inspection elbow is a very flush and snug fit, with the internal bore of the bend nigh on smooth and ‘snag-free’.

How exactly are all the connections to come together at one invert at the “green blob” (lol)? Assuming the red line connects at 1st floor? Anyhoo…… You cannot have a change of direction for food wastes or ‘solids’, so main kitchen run would need to be direct to the inspection chamber, and the green stack rising would also connect to the same inspection chamber, each with their own inlet / spur. The green stack cannot drop into a branch, it MUST drop to a supported REST bend and that must go in a straight line to the chamber. In an ideal world, you would be taking the underground foul pipe around to the back of the house and you’d be fitting another inspection chamber just for the kitchen.

Have another look…… It isn’t a ‘full drop’ it’s just a small drop from horizontal. The only thing I would have done differently here would have been to use a 135 bend into a 135 branch, with the open end on horizontal having the cleaning / rodding eye. @Thorfun, you can relax. The plumbing grinch is being too picky here IMO, and the clip immediately after it is sufficient support AFAIC.

Modern units sized appropriately are actually very quiet indeed. They wouldn’t be destined for my bedrooms if not

Would you have switched on air con in those rooms if it was there? eg over the recent ( brief ) summer. The only thing rads can do is heat, air con can both heat and cool. @Digger1 FYI, the second I can take some bloody time off work I am going to ‘plumb’ my house for A2A in the 5 bedrooms and the landing, plus my shed ( office / man cave ) for sure. Rads will very likely be removed from those rooms as I can make much better use of the floor space then with the split units up high / over doors etc where that is already dead space. I’d say more ill-informed and a bit long in the tooth Prob saying exactly what I would have said 10 years ago. The other inefficiency that you must factor in, is with gas / rads you;’d need to get the boiler lit / up to temp / heat up all the large bore pipework / and all of that needs adding in. Plus bedrooms will usually only need a whiff of heat, so if they’re calling independently the boiler will prob not spend much time fully condensing. AC is a great place to send any excess PV to, after DHW is satisfied.

40 lashes. Assume nothing.

I’ve just realised, you’re causing yourself a bit of unnecessary pain and suffering by not using fittings from the underground ( orange coloured ) range. These will give you 15o and 30o bends, whereas it looks like you’re mostly ( ore exclusively ) using 45o ( aka 135o ) bends?

Yup. 👍

Right…… Number one schoolboy error. On a run supporting something such as this, you need to fit a clip, on the pipework, immediately prior to each fitting either end. If it looks like a see-saw, gues what it'll do