Nickfromwales

No, it’s was 100mm ‘out’, not thick

Why not mount the pump at the source of the 22mm flow and return pipes instead of in the wall? It’ll be virtually silent then.

Yup. They’re basically good enough to be nigh-on constantly submerged, as is the case on a lot of flat roofs after rainfall. 👍

Duravit do their easy-clean coating called ‘wundagliss’ ( check spelling ).

Nothing to worry about. These joints are pretty much bombproof when sealed as per the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There are instances where skylights etc have external corners / up-stands etc, and we install PV with plates which have the welded edges 4 sides around. Upstands also occur at the bottom of flat roof areas, so all the water hits that uphill-facing edge too with zero detriment. It’s all good.

Have you spoken to the tiler about sequencing? The decoupling membrane certainly does get laid with tile adhesive, so how do you think it doesn’t? Is there a laitance on top of the liquid screed that needs to be mechanically scrubbed off? Do you know if it was a cementitious screed ( Flocrete ) or a Gypsum based screed?

I’m doing all my client installs with Hep2O and hot returns. Zero issues when installed robustly and deployed correctly. I did one install where just the HRC was in copper, but not done one in copper since…..just no need to in a domestic setting tbh. Continuous operation doesn’t occur as they’re typically timed or ‘pulsed’ on/off with suitable means of control ( eg a system designed specifically which provides the required mitigation ).

Ah, yes. Forgot about our secret in-house window-weapon. Thanks, much appreciated.

I’ll get on the phone Monday. Hopefully ex-stock and I can get it quickly. Thanks.

Most plumbers can’t wire up an S plan, so they come up with all sorts of incentive ways to dodge those mystical 5 wires of the zone valve….. For G3 you need fail safe on the controls. That is via the cylinder stat. An UVC is a potentially explosive device, and relying on just the boiler stat is a defo no-go. He’s not only careless, but he’s dangerous, and clearly doesn’t know the requirements of G3. Get him gone and get the system made safe plz!!

Yup, but surely outside in the meter box would be the safest / most sensible option for checks / visual confirmation vs being indoors and boxed in or with 16 coats of gloss over it?!?

Hi all. I'm trying to source 20mm Compacfoam ( or an equivalent product ) to be used for the installation of a 5m all glass slider. Need to create a thermal break at the threshold, as well as vertically up both sides of the slider for 5.4m rising ( long story, picking up a not-so-ideal-install off A.N.Other.... ). Deepest section would be 150mm - 180mm so looking ideally at buying an 8x4 sheet s cut into the sizes I need. The Green Build Store only sell Twix sized pieces so am looking at other options if anyone can help? TIA.

What's on the inside wall at that point? Anyone's guess tbh.

Incoming gas is a galv pipe above ground by the looks of it, and the supply to the house looks like copper. The requisite is to have the gas earth bond within the first 600mm of the outgoing gas pipe from the meter. For aesthetics, you could put this just inside the meter box to not have it 'on display'. If you are living in the house and have damaged the earth rod, this is a matter of immediate concern and should be fixed and checked asap.

Complete and total bollocks.

No certs for water or gas!?!?! You won't get signed off until your gas install is registered online with the GSR ( Gas Safe Register ). Have you finished paying the plumber? But of less use, it appears....

I can recommend Simon Chadwick of SMC. He’s come to the rescue from a job that’s started with a window fitter on his mother’s side….. Very nice guy, and came very highly recommended via Dovista ( who own Velfac and Rational ). Give him a buzz and mention the Welshman. 07862 737026.

The grey boxes on the cylinder…..are they not immersion and cylinder stat? I’m pretty sure without that stat and a zone valve in play, you won’t get a G3 sign off for that system.

Just fit grid-tied hybrid inverters and dial them down to zero export. Declare and forget.

It’s the event ( albeit unlikely ) of equipment failure that were supposed to factor in, which is where / why these kinds of regs reside. I’d argue that you’re correct, eg if the battery charger has crocodile clips vs crimped eyelets which are bolted permanently to the batteries then it’s no worse than charging a vehicle. The fact that there’s a 13a plug on these domestic chargers with exposed metal ( male ) connections means there is absolutely zero chance of connecting to a battery snd getting 230VAC back out the other side. Would never get certified if so. Simples.

Expected, but not really an issue for those with PV, as the ‘problem’ ( sun ) creates the solution ( excess vegetation to power cooling ) so still “free” whilst the sun is in the sky?

Press a couple of buttons in installer settings for Panasonic.👌

No pressure test of incoming mania vs sum output of the control group > UVC. I always fit a secondary pressure gauge after the control group so the client can simply glance at it to confirm correct / safe function of the control group. Easier then, than checking the oil in your car. Installers taking unbalanced cold feeds to mixer taps allowing at-source incoming mains pressure to back-feed into the UVC via the hot feed. Insufficient EV capacity for larger systems and those with an HRC. EV’s not inspected regularly to recognise when one has lost its pre-charge. Same with rusting EV’s which then just pop. List goes on…..

It’s the “value” of the resistor that we need in order to ascertain its “cost”. You can, you just have to meter the heat and take A from B to discount energy spent on cooling.

If you purchase one, you can possibly read its resistive value and release the information here. Is this thing encapsulated?