Nickfromwales

If I saw someone beating a few hundred masonry nails into my skirting boards they’d be bounced off down the road. Onto timber studs with 2nd fix gas fired pins, yes, but onto masonry? Is Fred Dibnah doing it?

Once it leaves via your meter it’s recorded, and is your own generation that’s being paid for by the supplier. The neighbour consumes it via their meter, so they purchase it from the supplier. Agree this bit is good for the environment etc, but it should be less of a burden on the public coffers and far more heavily subsidised by the grossly profit-heavy, privatised industry. One for another thread, so we don’t use up Zoot’s remaining 5% capacity!

2. Get a groundworks company geared up for it, materials ready, crew of more than 1, and blitz it. Some cans of worms are better off left unopened.

@zoothorn, have you explored other grants, like external wall insulation, solar PV and batteries? Lots online about grants or zero interest loans for renewables and energy efficiency upgrades. Solar PV outputs <10% of the size of the array in winter, so using an oversized solar PV array in an attempt to provide heating is a non starter. Plus you’d then be haemorrhaging excess all summer with nothing to do with it other than get the paid export. If it’s available through grant, it’s a no brainer though. Maybe an option for harvesting positive funds into the winter heating coffers in the summer, to offset your anticipated heating bill, but maths need doing.

Maybe opening a can of unnecessary shaped worms?

Might be really nice sheds

Yup. I felt sorry for you even attempting this, and was about to call you a tight-arse, thank goodness I didn't have to do that................

Have you confirmed it has in inbuilt pre-heater? You'll need it I'm sure.

Tres Bien!!

Hot water from an ASHP is cheap enough, and if you've invested in all that infrastructure, have already plumbed the house for hot water to all bathrooms etc, then it would be madness to not use it??

I use a laser and all-round patent band, at around 1000mm cc. I try to avoid connecting it to the lower chord, so sound doesn't transmit to the GF ceiling. Geberit stuff is euro 90mm, whereas UK (3") is 82mm vs (4") 110mm. Regs say you can have 1x WC on a singe run of 82mm going to meet a 110mm SVP. Youd need to get a specific adaptor, if one exists, to go 90mm > 82mm, or go 90mm > 110mm > 82mm 82mm > 110mm adaptor I only ever use 3" if its a rising (dry) vent pipe, and it needs to go up inside a stud wall, or alongside a rainwater downpipe to 'match', vs doing it in the cumbersome 4"/110mm stuff. @Oz07, how long a run do you need through the posi's?

Im still at odds, as I’ve literally never had a single issue with Brink. If changing this out then just look for something reputable, with the ports as close to the current configuration as possible.

Ok. I mentioned it being on constant as I suggested fitting the battery powered room thermostat, which you’ve not gone with. Not a problem, your choice. If you’d have gone for the type of thermostat like I have then the Vaillant controller would have become the slave unit and the battery powered stat would have taken control of the time and temp. In this situation the auto/timer functions would have been in place on the new unit. As you still only have the Vaillant one, that you seem prepared to move if needed(?), then yes you’d be going to the auto/timer function on that and not ON constant. So now, you must get to grips with how that auto/timer gets programmed and what times and temps you want to trial run. For completeness, the auto/timer setting is going to choose times for comfort and times for setback. This means essentially your house will heat on demand 24/7 to try to achieve the temps that you’ve set during the times you’ve asked it to be at that temp. 07:00 - 19.5° 09:00 - 17.5° (daytime setback) 18:00 - 19.5° 22:00 - 15° (nighttime setback) (I’d go 16° for nighttime setback but it’s your house so you’ll have to decide how high or low nighttime setback temp is, by trial and error). So, if you’d look at the above “heating schedule” you’ll see the heating doesn’t go ON > OFF so to speak peak, just instead it just changes the target temp for different times of the day. Let’s see if you grasp that and then we can look at you then setting this schedule up. Thanks to the other posts above folks, that’s all very helpful. The info for cable type and so on and the links to tutorials for setting the programmer are welcomed with open arms! @zoothorn, does my above now make sense? Next item: You mention moving the unit to the kitchen, that is a big “NO”, as that room has big temp swings. If you’d look move it, the controller needs to go in the living room or other living space like the dining room. It depends upon where you loiter during the day, as that’s where I’d locate it so it’s looking after the space you use on the day. The other rads will amble on in the other rooms, so you can just ignore those and let them all simply do their own thing. These will simply be contributing to the house simply staying at a balanced ambient. As you get the house settled to these new temps, so it’s never getting as cold as the current 12°C setback, you’ll not be having the amount of moisture and humidity to deal with anymore. You'll start to see the house just generally feeling ‘nicer’ and when it’s not getting cold it’ll start to ‘dry out’. Like my house. Once it’s routinely heated (to some degree) it’ll get better each day, and you can change times and temps every couple of days as you see fit, eg tweaking the heating schedule until you get the sweet spot of times / temps dialled in.

I do this on nearly every project, and never been an issue. BCO's tend to not really give 2 hoots about the drainage after you're above ground btw, with the last BCO stating to me "if it blocks they won't ring me they'll ring you". They just ask about access, air admittance, and after that they switch off. What distance do you need to travel between chords? 5m to 6m is easily doable as the flush velocity helps a lot, and 1:100 is fine as long as it's kept as a straight run. If there's need for change of direction to align with the voids, then do that at the WC end. A pic or plan would help.

Neither seem sympathetic or practical tbh, and you need to work out where you can practically add internal rodding access. In reality, this is not very practical so I'd steer away from that solution. You can have clear water branched into foul runs as long as they are swept connections to join the flow from a WC. Aim to combine some of the connections and just get 110mm pipes to WC's first, then look to see what you can pick up with 50mm pipes bossed into the 110mm runs. Combine as much as you can to a chamber offset from your main entrance, as it's a bit of an eyesore if immediately outside the front door, slap-bang in the hard landscaping. Have as much pipework under the slab as you like, there's no issues there; do what works best and cover it over, and get on with life. Avoid the connections to the chamber that come in against the direction of flow, as you suggest some which are too far from best practice. No Y junctions under the slab unless it's a straight run and its chamber to rodding access, or unless it's taking bath / shower / basin wastes, as these are considered clear (grey) water without solids. This changes for kitchen and utility, as these are considered to have solids (food waste etc) being discharged from them, so are treated like foul connections; if no internal rodding access, then these need to be arrow straight runs directly to an outdoor chamber.

I own both Rubi (dry and wet) and Sigma (dry). The Sigma is hands down the best cutter I've ever owned. It's also an industry go-to, so you should be able to sell it on without too much of a loss. This will do you nicely, I have the larger one. LINK

If they contract, it's their responsibility for compliance, not the clients.

Stop it! 🤦‍♂️

I used Stairparts Direct for a very nice bespoke oak staircase we fitted for a previous client. Worked out very nicely indeed. https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/ Can't recall if they were the cheapest, but I didn't ask for cheap. The staircase was completely bespoke and they'd not done one like my design before, but were engaging, helpful, and added some great ideas to the mix.

I'd just use 2 pieces of timber, put together (sistered) so you can install them 'telescopically'. Clamp, and construction screw these together, and then infill the short pieces to make 2x full lengths per joist. Dead simple.

Pretty much. Then use a flat colour-matched trim to go from tile > tile to hide the cuts. Have the flag of the tile trim folded back over the cut (existing) tile if the cuts are 'less than great'. Ceramic and porcelain are two very different beasts, so I hope the wall tiles you need to cut are ceramic. Caveat is that they shell at the edges much easier than porcelain, so good luck anyway, and cut slowly. Do your first trail cut appx 10mm away from the actual line you are working to, so you can see how difficult they are to cut and what the finish is going to look like. Your biggest battle will be, the removed tiles will want to take the plasterboard with them, so I think this is where your plan will seriously unravel. If the tiles don't separate from the plasterboard, then prepare to re-tile the whole room. Don't buy tiles until you are ready to tile!!

Indeed. FWIW, to the OP, this has been thrashed out here previously, and yielded much the same results.

The nation is on the edge of their seats.

No it won't, a 30kw oil boiler would cook you alive in there. Accept this as a fact because I have installed gas and oil all my life. It's not a hobby, it's fed and clothed us, and if nothing worked I wouldn't have a career out of it would I? Part 1. Please stop ignoring the fact that I live in a near identical house to yours, it's a little frustrating for you to keep dismissing direct and factual information. My gas boiler doesn't ever output more than 12-14kw, because my house is never allowed to go "stone cold" each day (in winter) and only ever runs at its max output when producing instant hot water (it's a combi boiler). To shut down what the buffoons who fitted this have stupidly said to you, because it is absolute and total fecking nonsense, you can listen to and rely upon what I am saying to you, because I happily consider myself to be an 'expert' in making homes comfortable. I've been fitting oil boilers / gas boilers / electric 1 and 3 phase boilers / ASHP's and GSHP's for around 30 years. Installing MVHR etc for over 10 years. Wiring things for over 36 years, including the QMII before it's maiden voyage out of Southampton. Listen to me, and all the other people on here, most of whom know more than I do and have all got ASHP's or gas boilers, and they all work. **************** Part 2. I have already offered a solution which was to run the heating at night on the setback temp, the one you said you'd ask the engineer to implement for you so we can run at least one months TRIAL of the heating. I suggested times for the heating to go between comfort and setback, I said go for 15oC setback (this would not overheat you, but it would also allow the rest of the house to not go "stone cold"), and you can define these to suit your wishes; I suggested 22:00 - "setback" 07:00 - "comfort". This is how I use mine, but with a very small difference in temp between night and day. I do this because it is cheaper to not let the house go "stone cold" every night. FACT. The above methodology of going from setback > comfort > setback > comfort and so on, is done by you having the heating "ON CONSTANT" vs it going "ON/OFF", but it will cycle the heat in only to replace what is lost to the clouds eg it won't be overheating you at all, just keeping you at the lowest temperature that you will accept (the one where you cant see your breath at night). ************* Part 3. The extra room stat would take command of the times and temp, and would avoid you needing to learn how to make these changes on the fixed controller that came with the ASHP. I suggested this as: a) it needs to be moved b) moving it requires cable / time / labour / higher cost (even though I'd insist your "expert" should move it for free as it's their laziness that has resulted in it being in the wrong place) so you'd be spending money moving a thing you still fear or cannot manipulate. c) the units like mine are very easy to use and to program / make changes on. These have simple timeclocks which are no more difficult to set than a digital alarm clock. This means as you trial and error different temps at different times, you can make these changes without any "experts" needing be in attendance. The one that you have now just becomes an installer interface for making fundamental changes (such as the 40-45 flow temp settings and hot water temp setting) Lets get heating cracked, and then the installer tomorrow can better time the hot water to suit you. Think today what times each day you need the tank hot and ask him to set these times.

I may have to take you outside and thrash the information out of you. Wales vs Scotland it is..... 🙄😆