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Munchincocopops

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  1. No advice......maybe another question. How do you fix brackets to the plastic frame so that the brackets can be secured to the steel lintel supporting the inside blockwork that does not have a cavity tray as I expect fixing it this way would be fine. Is this the recommended practice thus avoiding fixing through steel lintel supporting outside brickwork and of course the cavity tray immediately on top of the steel lintel and brickwork on top of that. Hoping for a advice.
  2. You would have thought so but the door and window company did just that a practice they tell me they have been doing for 20 years. It is an expensive well known make of door and can only be bought via and installed by authorised installers. I am waiting for their decision on how to rectify.
  3. New door fitted. Fixings vertically through frame, through steel lintel above door, through cavity tray above that and fixed into masonary sitting on cavity tray. Now water running down fixings into frame above door and into inside of house. Whilst I now read this is normal fixing practice, to drill through lintel and cavity tray, how does this fit with building regulations regarding cavity tray. What is the solution? Any advice appreciated.
  4. Never had a heat loss calc done. House has no draught's but also no cavity wall insulation as house is built of stone and advised not to have cavity wall insulation in case of cavity bridging with stone. Not much loft insulation either as its boarded out mostly. Though extension has insulation. as per current building regs. So thanks for the advice - it looks like a buffer tank will do what I'm looking for. Kind Regards
  5. Thanks for that HughF. The house is a big house before building the garden room and my old 24kW boiler struggled to heat the house in mid winter....its all 15mm insulated copper and oversize radiators...hence upgrade to 32kW. What I did not realise is that we would tend to only use garden room as it is always nice and warm with underfloor heating though there are times when we use the rest of the house with visitors and family and the 32kW cooks the house well. Will look into DHW priority but we only have this on each morning for 1.5 hours before we get up and it gives us stored hot water for the day. I'm assuming you are suggesting DHW priority idea for the bathroom radiator circuit? I've also wondered if a second small boiler just for underfloor heating circuit would be a better idea? Thanks again.
  6. Thanks Temp for the reply and explaining the draw of heat mixing with the return to maintain 35 deg c. Stupidly I overlooked this obvious (now) effect of colder return water.....I was thinking water was easily raised to 35 deg and valve closed until pipework dissipated the heat when the floor is up to temperature ...thinking heat is not easily dissipated into already heated floor....but your explanation is making me think again. Its a new Baxi Megaflow and I do not know if its short cycling or regulating. I assume regulating as its heating the bathroom circuits not only the UFH. I'm just wondering if there is a way to use less gas....it may not even be possible....what I have might be as good as it gets and only a buffer tank would help?
  7. Hi – I’m after some advice. I have a large garden room 60m2 with water underfloor heating, 7 circuits, all on or off as system demands. Due to increased energy costs I’m wondering if there is a better way of controlling boiler running. The boiler is a System boiler, 32kW, running at 60 deg C. It heats a hot water tank, house central heating and garden room underfloor heating each with separate timer control and stat. We have the bathroom radiators piped so they come on whenever the boiler runs. Mostly we only use the garden room and so only the underfloor heating is used and rarely do we have the house heating on these days. This time of year the ufh is on all the time though the stat drops back to 17 deg C at night then back up to 20 deg C during the day, usually we adjust this daytime temperature depending how cold it is. So I’m thinking the boiler (about 5m from the underfloor heating manifold) will not be on long before the underfloor heating manifold mixer valve (set at 35 deg C) turns off which in turn will eventually cause the boiler to shut down once bathroom radiator pipes reach 60 deg C or so causing the boiler to shut down on its own temperature stat. Though it may fire up again later due to its own stat even if the manifold mixer valve remains closed, though garden room stat is still calling for heat as the room is not yet up to temperature even though the ufh pipes are at 35 deg C. I have thought of a buffer tank but I’m wondering if there is something that can measure the underfloor heating manifold temperature so when it reaches 35 deg C it can be used to turn off the boiler as the room stat is still not up to temperature so asking for boiler heat. I’m thinking when the manifold temperature drops below 35 deg C, then the boiler is enabled again and controlled by the room thermostat. Ideally, I wondered if there was a manifold mixing valve that had a means of allowing a control system to know when it was open to accept hot water and also when it was closed and not accepting hot water. At the moment I’m thinking of fitting an electronic temperature sensor to the manifold and setting it to the same temperature as the mixer valve, though I realise the mixer valve is not exact so there will be some trial and error. Hence ideally an intelligent mixer valve would be best I think. The other idea is to use a PLC (maybe a raspberry pi) as the controller to monitor manifold temperature and when it records a maximum temperature, i.e. not increasing anymore, I assume the mixer valve is closed and shut off the boiler. Once the temperature, say, drops 3 deg below this maximum the plc enables the boiler to be controlled by the room stat once again. Anyhow, been googling but so far cannot find such a solution. Any help or comments appreciated.
  8. So - buffer tank - what size? But just to be sure before I buy.... Are my thoughts unreasonable? Buffer tank or Mixing valve with volt free contact to call for boiler when heat required......is there such a thing? or add stat to manifold to call boiler if temp less than mixer valve setting or Dedicated small boiler for UFH only to negate need for buffer tank.......and will it be more efficient? Any thoughts or advice appreciated. Many Thanks.
  9. Thanks - I know of the buffer tank - but here's a curved ball - for the cost of a buffer tank maybe I can buy a new small gas bolier, set its temperature to 34 deg c and replace mixer valve with a valve so this small boiler is for heating UFH only? Just an idea?
  10. Hi - Just joined as I'm after some advice on underfloor heating boiler control. Anyhow, I'm retired, once an Electrical Engineer and a DIY nut who must do everything myself....well bar gas (my son does this as qualified to do so) and plastering (I'm just not good enough though I've tried) and I hate brickwork...but can do it ...just so slow! My Dad was a joiner by trade and building inspector who loved working with wood and any building projects at home. So its in my blood....but this is the last job as age is taking its toll and time to step back if I can. - Oh - forgot....extension I have just finished is a large garden room and new kitchen and untility. Just my findings on a few points. Roof is Classicbond EPDM 1.5mm as slope is 7 degrees as single storey 5m out. Did it in one piece 12.5m x 5.5m....me and my son laid it in a few hours. Took me longer to fit Velux roof windows but not difficult. I was told by a roofer thats it was better than competitors as you can get the creases out of the Classicbond rubber. All I can say is I have only used this for the first time, no creases, easy to lay and works just fine. Sliding patio doors - can I recommend them here - Expressbifolds.co.uk - great doors and good fiiting job (supply and fit) - lovely showroom at Leeds. Buy a green self levelling laser , a multicutter and a bevel if you do not have one. Always buy the best tool for the job....makes life so much easier. NIce forum and nice to meet you.
  11. Hi....I have just built a large garden room and opened up the kitchen into this area and fitted water based underfoor heating that works very well. My only concern is the run time of the boiler. The boiler is new, a Baxi 32kW system boiler as we have a hot water tank. As normal the hot water uses tank stat to open valve and call boiler for heat, same goes for heating though bathroom and en-suite radiators are connected to separate feed circuit so that they come on no matter if hot water or CH demand. We've had this for years and works fine. Boiler temperature is set at 68 deg C. UFH manifold is 6m from the boiler. UFH pipes - 7 loops approx 75m each only in garden room extension as kitchen floor is T&G Now, of course, whenever the garden room stat calls for heat the system opens valve to UFH manifold feed pipe and turns on manifold circ pump and UF water temperature is set at 35 deg c so I expect UFH mixer valve takes 68 deg C water and shuts off when manifold water reaches 35 deg C. I'm expecting this will take very little time as CH is not on at the moment but well controlled anyhow so takes little demand. So to my question. Is there a better way to control the boiler for UFH demand? My thoughts are the UF manifold does not take heat so often as the boiler capacity is large and 68 deg C but the boiler remains in demand due to UFH stat so all it is doing most of the time (my guess) is heating bathroom and en-suite radiators which is unnecessary. Ideally I only want the boiler to run if the manifold is less than 35 deg C. I'm thinking of fitting a stat to measure manifold temperature and shut off boiler but ideally I'd like a mixer valve with a volt free output that can be used to call for heat when the mixer requires it.....if there is such a thing? Thanks for your help and any comments.
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