Nickfromwales

Defo over the ply. Get some tile primer (Ultra flexi-prime etc) and water it down 50/50, and saturate the floor with a good few repeated coats. Don't let it dry. Then go on with neat primer, and then apply Mapei builders screed from Screwfix etx. Mix to the recommended consistency, and then add 1/4 pint of water to it. This must go down whilst the primer is wet. Pour, leave, and enjoy.

They all hit the plate, other than the 1120. It's zero to do with design.....just the size of the wall you have and the size of a WC seat. Fitted boatloads of these and nobody ever mentioned it. Life goes on.

Just change the branch! You'll still pick the waste up exactly the same way.

Mark them on the walls, or get a tape out and start noting datums and spacings etc.

If double-boarded and skimmed, there will be a huge amount of weight on those single drywall screws. First thing to do is speak to the manufacturer and ask what is required here. I'd be putting 2 screws in at each point of 'suspension', which will have zero negatives and a lot of positives. You think old boy Roy read the specs??

It'll flex regardless.

Ok, thanks. I'll book myself into Specsavers tomorrow. My only issue is, that is a T branch, and should be a Y branch like the other if poop is dropping into it from "Le Bog".

Nope. You get the benefit of the central area of ceiling being 'suspended', but at perimeters the walls and ceilings become one connected mass by default.

@Omnibuswoman I hasten to add, the old boy should be marking the posi joists on the plasterboard so zero screws go into these. Using 25mm screws is very good 'buffoon insurance', but the moral is to ONLY be screwing the PB into loose RB and NOT into the posi joists as the PB will then want to keep pulling up and pinch the RB tight, the opposite of what you want. Have this chat before he fits a single PB, and TELL HIM what you want.

Looks ok / good to me, but I am a stickler so always tell my guys to put 2 screws into each joist as I'm not a fan of these only having one screw in them. The bars at the outside walls are fine; at the end of the day the walls don't move, so where the ceilings meet walls, get scrim taped, and get plastered, you won't actually want any movement there as the plaster / paint would crack.

Different shades of a discontinued colour, is my worry!

All your emitters are within the heated and airtight envelope, so it's quite moot tbh.

Why have the voids from the eggbox? Why buy the eggbox? Pipes on the deck, 16mm hammer in nail-clips, screed.

Gravity equalises it, so "no deal, Noel", . It'll still read absolutely 100% accurately.

Good man! The grey T to the far right......... Does that boss any waste pipes out the back of it?

Ah, ok, so an “overlay” system. 👍

It’s been in storage for >2 years.

I’ve just had to convince a client to boot his builder and gang off site, very serious stuff that he was trying to cover up…… A friend said to me, “you’re the grim reaper for builders”. I am if they're incompetent, deceptive, thieving fcuktards. I was there for MVHR only, but couldn’t (in good conscience) hold my tongue any longer. Said chap pulled me aside on site and tried the bully tactics to get me to keep schtum. Didn’t work. “Don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out”, and out he went. I’ve met some excellent ones, but sadly they are very few and very far between, but from the good ones that I have been lucky to have worked with I picked up some great knowledge, and I use it on every new project to continue to better myself. Giving a feck costs nothing, but quality costs more as it consumes time. If someone doesn't value quality, and doesn’t want to pay me for my time and experience, then I walk away and let them suffer mediocrity. Always costs them more time and money, but you cannot educate pork.

Use your rage to punch-compact the bastard

If it's just a garage, go with the cheapest solution. End of. Block layers are a-plenty, and masonry is something that requires zero thought.

Pipes routed into the P5? 18mm is a thin board to compromise.

In that case you just need to choose for yourself, and ensure any details for layering / compaction are observed. Have this chat BEFORE anyone starts work, not after...............

I've installed wet UFH over FF P5 22mm decks many times, and screeded over them; from 'just enough' to ~50mm. I used 16mm Pert AL, never use anything else, as laying UFH is somewhere OTT should be the standard....? alarm bells are ringing.

Well......guess who is to blame then!!!! They are just covering their feck up!!!!!!! I'd be asking for copies of all the delivery notes etc, but a kitchen in storage for 2 years is one thing, but worse is a kitchen put into storage without you going through the inventory and checklist before accepting it. I think it's time to evaluate being alive, and consider what other people have to deal with in comparison. This is a pita, but not life or death.

Check with the SE, they will have specified?