Nickfromwales

Don't cheap out on the choice of unit Get everything else you need from begging / stealing / borrowing, but the beating heart should not be bean-counted. Remember this....you will switch the MVHR on, and then NEVER turn it back off again for the rest of your time in the dwelling. If you choose poorly here, it'll not pay dividends from day 1, plus it'll come back and bite you on the ass when it fails early. Also make sure you pay homage to box attenuators before the distribution manifolds, as noise needs addressing. If you buy a compact (cheaper) unit, it'll have inherent problems as 'size matters' here I'm afraid. Look for units which have pre-heaters as an integral feature, so the unit doesn't shut down when incoming air temp comes close to freezing the unit. Brink for me, great price for an excellent unit. Watch for grey imports as they are 'return to source' warranty only, and do not come with on board controls; you need to buy these as a bolt-on, and then all of a sudden it wasn't so cheap after all.

Not so with the Ivar sets. Totally different beasts, have you used these before? How do you achieve disenable segregation of the GF and FF if there not two stats (and therefore 2 zones)? Not a stab btw, I'm still at school every day I'm concious. This... ....with this on top. When we know 'TOG' and anticipated floor coverings, plus the GF situation. Don't worry about it, but don't discount it quite yet, is my 2 cents. It would be a bugger if you design for x floor coverings, and then cannot have anything else, ever, in its place for eg.

Telling people they've done a good job, and that you appreciate it, goes a loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong way. Don't put that off

Hmmmmmmm. So, here's the facts Stud walls for bathrooms should be at 400mm cc, not 600mm. The weight per m2 is the concern, but if your tiles are that big then......so what? It's still exactly the same kg/m2 as you putting 100x100mm tiles on. If the tiles you bought are 30kg/m2, then so will tiles 25mm x 25mm be. It's physics. Where you apply the math is the board and the way its fixed, so you'd be going for 12.5mm MR PB (if I was doing it) and then screwing it to studs at 400mm cc, and having a screw into the PB at every 100mm max cc. Then you could patio slab the damn walls. If you have studs at 600mm cc then you (or I) would then be installing horizontal noggins to create 400mm cc horizontally. This would give you boxes of 600mm x 400mm which you'd then divide the installed weight of your BFO tiles, per that exact amount of area. You've not been reliably informed. I've been sticking BFO tiles to bathroom walls for 3 decades, and not one's fallen off....yet. I've always used plasterboard, and always gone bat-shit crazy on studs and screwing the MR PB to them. Then I tank the shit out of everything, to the point people think I need help, and the results speak for themselves. No need for fancy XPS boards, cement or tile backer boards, all just stuff introduced so it can be sold to folk to turn a profit. "No".

Nope. This is spot on. The internal of the black cowl is sat atop the roof penetration 'top-hat', and that keeps the rain from getting down into that junction. It needs to be high enough to stave of splashing rain. Buy him a beer, and say "thanks", it looks very robust and a good job afaic.

Ahhhhhhh! I've seen this before, and I think we're in quite a predicament here, so sorry to be the bearer of bad news. How can I say this......I guess just come straight out with it I suppose........here goes........................................ Questionable rug.

The two separate waterless traps with a decent bit of distance (head) keeps that in check. Drains as shown are for 1x overflow, and 1x regen output. One does nothing for the rest of its life, the other pukes water out daily, in large quantities, for the regen.

30 is cooler than skin temp, so you'll not suffer too much annoyance.

Factory bypass came with the softener. TMV 1 does all ‘hot’ outlets at 50°, and TMV2 does wash hand basins (on a hot return loop) at 46°. Cooler flow for the recirculating loop = lower losses.

It’s been discussed recently, so can be done with a cheap TMV. Just set it as low as you can but also plumb it in with an isolator on the hot side, so hot can be shut off for the rest of the year. The TMV will allow cold through without hot pressure present, but it won’t let hot through without cold pressure; these are set up to prevent scalding if the cold fails.

OK, I may need to get up to speed here then, as pre Covid I couldn’t get much sense for this type of setup out of a few tech guys from the big hitters. Stiebel Eltron were the only ones offering something ‘elegant’ out of the box at the time. The issue I see for eg when the ASHP has been almost sized to the heating demand, is a very long time being taken to reheat DHW, more-so if it’s a larger UVC.

That’s correct, but how many of these can do this out of the box, and what cost and complexity will ensue? Mixers vs mixer? Eg qty 2 if UFH over 2 floors? This plus the fact that this will defo need a volumiser for when the house is at / near to target temps and the heat demand reduces.

You’ll be sending 2 different temps into 2 different manifolds? What is the methodology for FF UFH?

Your issue will be the rate of discharge when it’s regenerating. How long is the run of 28mm pipe, and where does it terminate? I’ll assume the worst and advise you make a ‘table’ for the softener as you’ll need to have some gravity fall for this to work reliably (or at all….). This is how I plumbed the last one in, where the pipe had to run some distance horizontally, caveat being that the traps were then much higher off the floor. The white square is the ‘softener stool’ that the client made for it to sit on. Left the underside open so bags of salt cubes could be stored under it to use up the space. The two waterless traps have 21.5mm reducers in the top, and the 2 hoses off the unit just poke into those by about 70-80mm or so. FWIW, there are few instances where you can install the softener directly on to the floor.

If you have both GF and FF UFH, then I assume you’ve allowed for a TMV on each manifold, and a buffer for hydraulic separation? You’ll need the flow temp from the ASHP to be at or slightly above the one that needs the highest output, hence you’ll need to be able to manage the temps per floor for the differing emitters and coverings.

Should we add that this typically pertains to 2 or 3 storey dwellings, and is relaxed for single storey?

Maybe lack of (known) FR of the infill material. But obvs should all be ironed out at the outset……just amazes me how much of this gets left to ambiguity and misadventure. See it all the time and it’s just crazy.

FR PB mechanically fixed over standard closers should be suffice, maybe if Dias that was bolstered with 15mm FR PB being the minimum acceptable material to form these barriers. Intumescent foam is flammable, go figure!?!?!

My point exactly. If fires not getting to it, it doesn’t need to be considered in the FR makeup. After 30 mins of flames licking something, in a domestic fire that’s fully involved, either everyone’s already dead or they’re outside watching the fire brigade do their thing. Steels only need FR PB over them if they’re exposed, for eg.

Not a great pursuit, especially if you’re getting robust advice from a random Welsh fella, one who’s been installing high end, luxury bathrooms most his life. Let us tell you when to worry. If something is worrying you that much, share it here. Pointless suffering needlessly in silence! Post a pic of the shower valve, or zap a link. I’ll advise you then. Simple as that

…..made of solid brass…. Are you planning on any WWF slam down matches in the shower? Or just bathing as we do here; 2 adults, 4 very unsympathetic children now teens hammering these things. Still as good and functional as the day I put these in, 7 or 8 years ago now iirc. Cheap as chips shower arm (380mm long for my 800mm wide bath) and the rainfall head was £8.99 on eBay. Died after 6 years of use / abuse, another £8.99 one went on. Looks like a £100 one, so sue me https://ebay.us/m/b0q0qC More money left over for beer. Chill out, it’ll be perfectly fine Can we see a pic of the connections on the shower valve plz?

And?

You use outside tap type angled backplates for the outlets to the handset and rainfall head https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-90-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-/92934?tc=BT1&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19822796606&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyUGEfGZZmhJ90IDJw5JjdyE&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkPzLBhD4ARIsAGfah8hKcKRu6pms4b1EB6CpPB7-4xkBVO9bS-dQVLeJvDxI7Mgb0nVqyuAaAvBDEALw_wcB And.... Do exactly this (please). Not true of every single one I've ever fitted, and that's "more than one"

If it's 9mm PB then yes, but if it's 12.5mm with plaster skim coat then the 30 mins regs are satisfied?

I did! My version won't see the plaster vs frame junctions constantly cracking.