Nickfromwales

I'm trying to see the good in that........ My late dad once told me (probably many, many times) if I had nothing productive to say......... I'm not a wet blanket btw, just a mod on a popular forum where everyone's welcome. Let's allow Monday to happen, and have a day of rest here.

The man's a little lost. ..........why he's come here, to try and get a grasp of WTF to do. @zoothorn is a tough nut to crack, but I doubt that is by choice people. Let's take this off the boil and let Monday happen, and then old Zoot can come back with some of what was discussed. For anyone running out of patience, lift your hands off the keyboard and go do something else. Other forums operate boxing rings, we do not.

Probably a fictitious house that never actually existed, and you're posting from a padded cell (like me).

"Simply" any better? Just........an alternative suggestion lol. Just saying.

Thanks. Any uPVC ones offering this?

#cheapdate

What if you fitted the 150mm of rockwool and it was way better?

Let me rephrase..............boyo. Do any uPVC manufacturers state that their product has been airtight tested, as some of the bigger players kinda suggest at least?

Effective Insulation to Save on Energy Bills YBS SuperQuilt Trade is a high-performing multifoil home insulation. It has a built-in vapour control layer when fully taped and sealed using ThermaSeal Foil Joining Tape. It’s been specifically designed with the tradesperson in mind due to its flexibility, high quality, and ease of installation. SuperQuilt Trade ensures your home retains more heat during the winter and maintains a cooler temperature during the summer, creating an ambient temperature all year round. It can be used on walls, floors, lofts, ceilings, roofs, conservatories, and many more! SuperQuilt Trade’s R-Value is up to 2.84 m²K/W which is the equivalent of 125mm of Mineral Wool. It’s made from 19 layers of thermally efficient layers. It is 40mm thick however compresses down to only 10mm during installation, saving on cost, space, and installation time compared to Kingspan and Celotex. YBS SuperQuilt Trade contains no floating or harmful fibres. It requires no PPE such as masks or goggles to install, unlike traditional mineral wool.

What happens if the remit is for these to be (and remain) airtight / as airtight as possible, for 20+ years or more. Does uPVC then still get put on the menu?

I've just spent a lot of time with a number of clients, detailing just this (with Norrsken units), and I haven't recommended going for the drip edge to be below outside hard landscape in any one, as that then means any wind-driven snow or heavy rain will be testing out how well you sealed under the 5mm gap under the threshold On the masonry one (75mm cavity) we used Bosig Phonotherm at 25mm thickness to sit atop the external masonry leaf, and made it the same width as the slider threshold. Long brackets are used to fix into the inner leaf of masonry at each side. Same at the head, or they can drill into a steel or masonry (or timber) lintel.

Bucket of water and a sponge, is all you need. Wash your hands and tools frequently, but if you've done the job properly you should not see any tile adhesive after fitting the tray, whatsoever. It should all be under the tray only, so if it's looking like it's going to ooze out everywhere, you mixed too much up!! Remember you do not put tile adhesive under the lip that runs around the tray underside, the adhesive stays away from those so they can move / flex, you just silicone these gaps later on.

Because your salespeople and installers just wanted the path of least resistance and an easy sale. Your original split system would have been capable of chucking out way above 65°C maybe even higher. The monoblock, even a shit one, will be able to do 60°C, so if you put that on and set the room stat to 19.5° like mine, (nobody’s mentioned you being 23°!!!!!), and you have 12 radiators, then….. Your house will heat up. As does mine, which is also a sack of shit in wales with stone walls and feck all insulation. It will work, so please stop saying it won’t happen as it absolutely will. It’s the laws of physics which “ye cannae change, Jim”. 12 rads at 50°C flow temp will get your house warmed up just fine. Try it.

It would be your room (house) thermostat, the thing you are referring to moving with 30m of cable. You can add a wireless one and leave the factory one in situ as just a dumb display / end user interface. Should be a 30 mins install max. This you can take with you room to room, so if you want to be comfortable at night, take it to the bedroom and plonk it near an internal wall away from any doors or windows. If you spend your day in the sitting room, plonk it in there all day. It's moveable as its wireless and battery powered. This is my one.

Why not go and buy a wireless room stat, from Screwfix or Toolstation, and ask them to fit it whilst they are there, then you can leave the other one where it is and zero cables to run. If he says no, just take it back and refund it.

🤐

Shouldn't the VCL finish behind the battens? If they're service battens, or is there additional insulation going in between?

Is it a stone-resin tray? If so, use flexible tile adhesive, it takes much better to the tray, and as you say using said mixture to scrub and key the underside so get a great bond.

Nobody sane!

We're in the Crystal Maze mate, there's no way out once you're in

This is only for 4-5 months of the year, and it's a heatpump so will be giving you some better COP than my gas boiler does, plus you can run on cheap rate overnight to offset the cost of heating from zero during peak times.

Neither do I. But I have a comfortable house all winter, because I run the heating on the lowest setting I can tolerate all winter, and yes, I get a bill from the gas company for the pleasure, which I accept needs paying.

OK, calm down.....we're only discussing options and explaining ourselves to you, based on your feedback and the fact you're living in a bitterly cold house when you have a full, brand new central heating system installed. You're reporting that it is useless, but you're not giving it a chance to prove that it works, in actuakity. The part you can't fathom is that my house is cheaper to heat by not turning the heating off, at all, all winter. None of us are sweating, none overheating, none are shivering cold and wrapped up in a duvet on an electric blanket. If you don't want a heating bill, don't turn the heating on. That means accepting you live in a stone fridge. If you don't want that, but something a bit less like a fridge, you need to turn the heating system on (timed to come on at 06:00 and to go off at 22:00 maybe) and TRY and see if that is better. Then try that for a month and see what the meter reading has jumped by. Number of units x the price per kwh that you pay, and divide by 2.5 for your COP and that'll give you a rough guide as to what your heating bill will actually be. If you don't (or won't) try then you'll never know. For completeness, I don't know anyone, anywhere, who will sit all winter freezing their arses off, even more so if they're saying that they're cold, or the house is borderline unacceptably cold to live in. We may have a breakthrough after all!!! Hoorah Yes, ask them to do this, and then see if it makes a difference. As above, choose a setback time (maybe the times I suggest above or think about this before the installer arrives to save time), but ask for this to be 15 degrees not 10!!! You need to open up to trying a few things and getting actual results to consider. You may not want the house to be heated per-se during the night, but you don't want it to be left to go stone cold, so a setback temp sounds like you may find a middle ground. If you want me to speak to the engineer with you, I am happy to support, we'd just need to be on the same page before their attendance or it'll be a shit-show. You can give the chap my mobile number and ask him to ring me.

Thank @-rick- This goes from a bad situation to a worse one then. WTF were these guys smoking when they thought this would self-regulate and not have any requirement for individual room temp control?!?