Nickfromwales

An SVP is exactly what it says, Soil Vent Pipe, so needs to go to atmosphere; either through the roof, or on an external façade finishing up higher than any openings etc. STP's are not part of the network, so you have no obligation to vent the main sewer gasses, as per a network connection. You just need reliable and functional. Do you have somewhere to vent the STP in the landscape (can be just a short stub above ground if far enough away to not cause nuisance) or rising up behind a shed or outbuilding etc. Methane is lighter than air, so will follow that principal. Static gasses should be prevented from building up, so if there is an SVP then even a minimal convection airflow will carry this gas up and out to atmosphere, nothing to do with the path of least resistance as none of the branches going into the house will have throughput of airflow, as you say they will all be capped off with an AAV. If you want an SVP to function as a vent, then a suitable location needs to be decided. Ground floor WC's do not (typically) need an AAV or a vent etc. Ok over short distances, yes.

Is it just the look of outside where it meets render etc or are you still working out depth of reveal > length of sills? Been on this for quite some time on both recent projects, both Norrsken, and yes it’s not something you can flick through in an afternoon. It’s what I do day to day tbh, got the empty boxes of headache tablets to show for it, plus all the other finite detailing that often gets left out (that stuff all too often ends up in the rear view mirror). So many things need this kind of micro-detailing, for a full house build, so lots of folk just dump this in my lap and say “can you sort this?” Joy.

To add, I was suggesting Zoot left the hard wiring alone, and added a 3rd party programmable wireless room stat that he could take around with him, as he’s the sole occupant.

Most yes, but what madness is it, if the nerve-centre is located indoors that the terminal to connect an indoor stat is in the unit that’s outside? Bonkers world of ASHP’s. I should have said all manufacturers I guess, so let’s add that contingent here.

Las few we've done have been the full (solid) threshold, ordered with sufficient length for external finishes. I'm often gone when the slide on sills go on as people are sometimes rendering long after I've done all the M&E / helped with window and door install etc. Norrsken should have some stock images, or ones from finished projects that they could share perhaps.

This of any help? Can only find stock images of sills / outside.

The brown envelope culture has been, is, and will continue to, rule the world. Personal greed is insatiable, ignorance is bliss (when they open the brown envelope and all is good....) and then these rats sleep incredibly well; the government just look the other way "b'cos they get paid" regardless.

I think you can stand down red alert fella, sounds like a great spec!!! My comments are relating to the OP.

You can vent an STP in the landscape or at an outbuilding. Gasses would travel to the end of the run and up / out the SVP at the far end of the run. You're panicking too much about that . A better drawing showing where the pipes rise inside the house would help, stating exactly what is connected and if they rise to 1st floor or not. AAV's are not require on the ground floor unless the invert is at 1300mm or more btw, and a lot of BCO's are unfamiliar with that allowance.

I direct bury the ones for UTH in bathrooms, but as they're so cheap I just put A - (in use) and B - (spare) each time. I just prefer the nub on the end to be wrapped in tile adhesive or SLC for the most accurate reading possible. The last job where I was asked to do this, we just used offcuts of 16mm ufh pipe and made long sweeping bends. The probes then got taped to piano wire and pushed into the depths; if these fail, you just pulled out the piano wire, re-attach, and poke the wee beastie back in.

Technically you're inside the insulated envelope here, but ill-fitting PIR and airflow at the window frame makes me default to getting any last whiff of cold and condensation risk dealt with once and for all. A sheet of 6mm or 10mm Marmox with regular PB bonded to it would lift the cost by a couple of £10's per reveal, so it's not a bank-buster.

I’d do the ceiling too.

Yes, I hacked off as the plaster and mortar was damp, plus they didn't want to lose an ounce of space. You defo do not want voids and layers, so do this meticulously or not at all.

If I can walk about in my cream and brown Y-fronts in Jan then I really wouldn't give 2 hoots what the mean flow temp is. I'd be warm and happy, the neighbours not so much as apparently that's not a good look. It's not just the probes, it's what you need to connect them to, if you actually do want to geek-out, but the novelty will wear off PDQ.

It's an absolute shitfest tbf.

Yes, I thought they may have had the good sense to put the stat link in the indoor unit.............ffs. Just googled it, and then man is right, another cable needs taking to the outdoor unit to allow a 3rd party stat to be connected. Vaillant, if you're reading this, WTF were you thinking not giving us that terminal inside the house, (you know, where people sometimes fit their room stats)?

Expensive Rubi ones lol. The standard blade will zoom through ceramic and travertine etc, but porcelain comes in different grades and needs a blade to suit. Any good retailer / tile shop should be able to advise and have stock of different types of blades.

Boatloads. My Rubi DU 200 radial wet bench cutter makes this a LOT easier, but still a massive ballache.

You can bin off the tumbled edges and just use the centre 'meat' of the tile, adding a trim on the top to finish it. Curved 1/4 round trims would probably be more sympathetic to a tumbled tile / rustic look.

@Jonny, take note!

Thanks for updating and the recommendation. That's a huge reduction, and 1.2 "ain't that shabby". Sucks that the detailing wasn't done better, but tbh if you taped the doors and windows back up you'd have soon got to below 1.0 I'm sure. One more box ticked for your completion certificate!!

What is a slide under sill? Do you mean sliders, or hinged French doors? What is it you want to see exactly?

We digress, but that's my next job as the loom in the headlight of the GLS has dropped a core, canbus going nuts every now and then. ffs.

Had this exact thig on a job a long time ago, and just hacked off all the inside of the cupboard and replaced with 25mm insulated PB, ensuring all edges of the PB met PIR not cold walls. I foamed all the gaps, tops / sides / bottom, so no cold air could travel behind, and job done. Adding vents to the doors won't do much as there's clothes preventing air circulation.

"Smiles per gallon"