Nickfromwales

Yes, but you may get a gurgle from the opposite appliance when the other is discharging as these create a seal vs the open pipe I suggest.

That's how @Pocster got parole.

We pity the fools....... I'd not waste much more time on her tbf, and ask if she's going for diamond leadwork in the windows.

Yes, you should have TRAP Y branch (130 degree) One of these in the side of the Y branch 300mm vertical drop is plenty, as the overall drop is to the invert of the 40mm meeting the black connector. Can you not take the black connector out and put a reducer where that goes into the floor?

Can we have even a crap drawing of what you propose please? 2 beers in atm, which is good for me, and I'm still lost.

Nope, it would just throw the breaker that the manufacturer installed to stop you from doing that. Then you reset stuff, after turning off the George Foreman Soufflé maker.

You can do this off the shelf, and as long as you’re not using the induction hob and a 10.5kW electric shower then the inverter will cope whilst you start running around shutting off these big loads. Wouldn’t need the manual changeover then (which is a bit Fred Flintstone nowadays ).

Half or more of resellers in the solar trade don’t know, so it’s defo a growing concern as PV / batts / EV / paid export as a working combo is defo on the rise.

Over reverse current is usually dealt with by a double pole MCB type device. It’s quite a shit diagram tbh, with “breaker” used where I suspect they should be saying (perhaps) isolator or over current device. As there’s no current rating stated I’m assuming they’re just dumb DP isolators. Does the manual state otherwise?

I’m saying what the usual arrangement is for swapping between grid and generator. If the inverter has approval for use in the UK then happy days. The changeover is done electronically in an approved device. The last pic you shared is helpful, and more relevant btw!!

I bought the cheap makita drill sets from SFx just to get the batteries and chargers, same charger to look at, but no fecking fans. £139 for a (crap) drill, 2 5ah batts and a charger in a case on one of their specials, so I bought 2 sets. Just a heads up to make sure you didn’t get gazumped like I did. Gave the chargers to my sons for their makita car hoovers etc, and bought a used makita dual. Handy thing with the dual (but not with all duals btw!) is the USB charger port.

Those AC isolators are physically connected in a changeover switch, so it’s one or the other in a flip/flop arrangement.

Changeover, as it’s referred to, should be exactly that. A switch that breaks all connection from the grid supply and swaps you to the ‘generator’ (whatever source that is), and any electrician should know the fundamentals here; if they don’t, there’s a book in their van that they can go and consult. If they still, then, don’t know, show them the door and give the same money to someone who does. If you don’t know, and you (any member of the public) attempt to DIY, then that’s about as dangerous as it can get. Foreign manufacturers installation guides need proper interpretation by the sparky / installer in the relevant country, so there shouldn’t be any ambiguity if you’ve chosen the installer well. It would need to be the ‘perfect storm’ though, as one dwellings output would be entirely consumed by the neighbouring properties sharing the line, plus the line / local transformer losses etc, so even if you had a huge inverter the chances of zapping a linesman, in the real world, would be rows of noughts after the decimal place. Imagine your microgenerator being asked, in a blackout, to reverse feed all of your neighbours houses. It wouldn’t even get the lights to flicker. A person would have to be working on the severed DNO cable feeding your house to go meet Jesus.

But you’re getting all the answers, however difficult that becomes, lol.

So, 3ph heat pumps, back on topic folks!!!!!

People, in general, would rather have a grossly expensive kitchen, nicer car, at least one holiday per annum, and a high gas bill. Ignorance will remain blissful for a good few more years to come.

I fitted one of these for a £25k bathroom makeover, and it was quite annoying. Made a sound when a device came into range or it lost it etc. Good sound, stereo tweeters with very good dispersion, but I’d never go this route again. Sonos (or other remote) amplifier, and a pair of dumb (quality) speakers for me.

The alleged fast chargers without fans will not charge a hot battery. They wait until it’s cooled fully and then charge at full pace. Best deals are batteries + charger bundles.

Permissions get handed out like penny sweets to developers. Had one client jumping backwards through hoops for 2 years of battling, costs of over £25k for the ‘privilege’, had to set the medium sized house back from the road to not offend the morning commuters, and half a mile further up the road was a developer site, houses 2m from the pavement, and all squeezed in with a shoe horn. These were just horrid red boxes, zero interest and not very ‘easy on the eye’, 2 or 3 PV panels on each, so the developer could trim back of insulation and boost the SAP by cheating, as the cheaper option to facilitate, and garages you couldn’t get a car into if it was tipped on its side = parking on streets / mayhem. The client had to do all sort of things to the house to please the public, including a faux chimney breast (on a PH!); the list went on……just an absolute piss take. Double standards tossers, and the fact it’s ultimately down to one individual to decide is just ridiculous.

Asbestos risk in hand, then just over-skim it. Don’t even dream about buying some filler in a tub and DIY’ing it, you’ll be looking for a cyanide pill half way into the job if you do and your arms will be hanging off before you even begin sanding. The dust and mess from this will be horrendous and right through the house. Persist with finding a plasterer, and all they should be doing is asking you for some staging or scaff tower on wheels, so they can do the job properly. Clean, quick, and one sitting. You just use a 4” scraper to knock all the highest ‘snots’ of Artex off, and then it’s a lathering of neat PVA and leave that to dry. If you want to save money, and attract a plasterer a little easier, do this first. Realistically, it’s an hour or so for a spread to just do this themselves, so pick your battle. Then the plasterer will neat PVA it again and lay straight on to the wet PVA with one set of skim to dub it all out. If it’s been scraped throughly then 2 sets would be enough, but if really lumpy then I finish that with a sponge float and then leave to stiffen up, and then 2 sets over that. Find a good spread, ditch the idea of over-boarding as it’s not as good a job and will be more expensive too (cost of boards, labour to install, and ceiling will still need to be heavily scraped back to board over anyways!).

Not for long though, even they could see through you

Or ask the wife to switch it on/off.

Sarking is the sheet board that goes (in some instances) over the roof rafters. If no sarking then the breather membrane is there instead. If sarked, the membrane sits directly onto the sarking. Then roofing battens.