Temp

Goglass actually made this one for us in 2007ish but I've only last month installed it! Tools and boxes still on the floor.

I doubt you can buy one ready made but you could certainly get one made for you. We got our frameless showers made by GoGlass in Cherry Hinton near Cambridge but many local glass merchants can make them. Their web site is very posh but they operate from a relatively modest workshop last time I was there. https://goglass.co.uk/ In your second picture it shows a door hinged off a small side panel. I would avoid doing that if possible. We have that on one shower and the glass to glass hinges aren't so easily adjusted. I think the arrangement in the first photo is better and will give a better door seal. However would the shower door bang on the bathroom door handle when open?

We built our house in 2005-7 and back then I found it impossible to get sane answers from heating/plumbing engineers. One company proposed two boilers at opposite ends of the house and a £60k bill for it all. Our builder said he knew an old boy that was an expert witness in court cases involving heating and plumbing. Turned out he didn't understand how thermal stores worked. I ended up driving him 150 miles to visit a company that designs and supplies them. We learned a lot but I still had to do my own trouble shooting after it was installed. Ended up redesigning part of the controls to avoid having a pump rumming 24/7. It's just an oil boiler, 300L thermal store and two UFH manifolds. Not exactly rocket science.

Can your incoming mains supply 80 to 100L/min?

That would be my interpretation.

We put in a fiberglass rainwater recycling tank with the overflow going into a ditch. Handy for watering the garden. It has a debris filter up stream but still gets a fair amount of silt in the tank. Water comes out a bit brown.

I went for a Grohe Bau rimless recently. Not exactly an ultra modern shape but works for us. Looks better in the flesh than photos. Good value. We have a D shape pan in another bathroom and I feel like ripping it out. The seat is top fitting and we have broken the hinges on two seats. Trying to find a better replacement has been difficult. I'll be sticking with the traditional shape in future.

What are the conditions?

This looks like a useful bit of kit but probably expensive. It's called a "POTS in a box".. https://www.t-mobile.com/content/dam/tfb/pdf/tfb-iot/DataRemote_CDS-9090_DataSheet.pdf You can connect old alarms and phones to it and it interfaces them to LTE (has SIM slot) or a modem. Includes a battery backup.

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4020÷14÷5÷12 = 4.8kWH So that sounds like a 3kW fan heater on 12 hours a day. Over a weekend replace it with a 1kW heater. Tell them the old one wasn't working when you visited.

I asked my builder why he didn't have any sockets in his site van for a heater or kettle and he told me he didn't want his trades sitting around. He said they can sit in their cars if they are cold. I learned a lot from him. He also put a lot of effort into ensuring trades never had to go of site to get materials. Every day before closing up he asked everyone what was needed for the next day and personally went to buy it on the way home if necessary. He said if you let trades go and get stuff they will be gone hours on your time.

This post is somewhat of a "thinking aloud" post. Feel free to wade in and correct me if I'm wrong ! Most of you know that Analogue phone lines are being switched off by the end of 2025. What I didn't realise is that not all ISP plan to offer a replacement VOIP telephone service. https://modern-networks.co.uk/bt-switch-off-2025 Fibre FTTP won't be available for huge numbers of people so many people will still be using FTTC or even ADSL when switch off occurs. My understanding is that most FTTC modems support SOGEA so we shouldn't need a new one. What I didn't realise is that companies like Plusnet don't seem to be planning a replacement telephone service at all. Not VOIP, nothing. Apparently they don't offer any telephone service with full fibre FTTP at the moment. So if you want to retain a land line like service (eg for an old burglar alarm) its not just a matter of buying an adaptor. Will also need to subscribe to a VOIP service, set it up etc. It's also unlikely this would work over a power cut? My existing modem certainly isn't battery backed. So is there a battery backed modem with Analogue phone line input that supports VOIP to a third part supplier that isn't your ISP? Is that what we will need? What about an OAP that currently just has a phone line? Are BT offering an plug and play adapter so they don't see any difference? We had a relative with dementia that struggled when her handset had to be changed.

Yes just two courses of engineering bricks (more waterproof than regular bricks). I made some long bolts from 12mm stainless steel threaded rod and nuts and embedded them in the concrete "head" down after levelling it. The mix was stiff enough they stood upright on their own but might need support. The bricks had holes in so were easy to drop over the top of the bolts when laying them. Just had to cut a few bricks where the holes or mortar joints didn't line up. DPM then drilled clearance holes in the wall plate. Big washers and nuts. Warning: I tripped and fell over and nearly impaled my head on one of the bolts when laying bricks, so make sure to put lengths of 40mm pipe over them as soon as the concrete is set until they are safe.

Always had Bosh machines and they have lasted 10+ years. Would buy again. Few months back I compared the energy consumption on different modes and the Eco cycle did save electricity even if it doubled the wash time. I'd look for a model with an induction motor rather than one with brushes. These should be quieter and need less maintenance.

I would suggest it needs a concrete lintel and because the clay liners have been broken it will probably need the chimney lining (although that's probably a good idea anyway).

As I recall for an SCR it's called the "Holding Current", for Thyristors it's called the "Latching Current". Value will be on the data sheet. Edit: I think this will also apply to solid state relays (SSR).

The roof design (warm vs cold roof structure) is a separate decision to how to ventilate your house (MVHR vs Trickle vents). I would recommend MVHR whatever roof design you choose. Put the fan unit as far away from bedrooms as possible. If you have an attached garage the roof space of the garage might be a good choice. The loudest part of our system is the air outlet (eg when you stand under it in the garden).

In a house designed for it spray foam should work well but it's getting a tainted reputation because of the above.

Not hard to find people with mortgage problems.. 500 people group action.. https://www.estateagenttoday.co.uk/breaking-news/2023/2/hundreds-of-claims-to-be-made-for-mis-sold-spray-foam-insulation Somewhat ironic they use blasting with dry ice (aka C02) to remove it.. https://www.allseasonsweb.co.uk/sprayfoamremoval?gclid=CjwKCAiAmJGgBhAZEiwA1JZollZVnp6w2EkUIfKT56Vq_oEQqNQJ0EQPgcOiClZc_nQ66aYcnbQ-fRoCfpIQAvD_BwE

Or find a tray where the trap doesn't clash with the joists so it doesn't need to be raised? Possibly even drop the ceiling below to allow pipes under the joists if this was on a new build.

If it was me I'd build a wood platform with WBP top layer instead of using the feet and go for a top access trap. Then bed the tray on mortar in the normal way.

+1 I wired up my own. Cable cost way more than the actual NTC. Encapsulated 10k NTC with short cables are five for £7.50 on Amazon. Google found these but I've never purchased from these companies... Various lengths Inc 10m for £15.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183331715037?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&var=690639609095 10m for £21.. https://www.justradiators.co.uk/thermosphere-floor-sensor-probe?ps=MjQ5PTE1MzUx&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeLok7yVFEa2erOpxJCsXUTmaseUfl25MJ21u-PweOzb6tuTduS6CBAaAmCbEALw_wcB#249=15351&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shoptimised+|+Incremental+|+Performance+Max&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=5690114029&hsa_cam=19604440538&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3

As I recall they stopped allowing planning permission extensions some years back to stop developers starting on large land banks. So you have to reapply. Normally that's not a problem but can be if policy changes. Were both plots on one planning grant? That might make a difference. If you want to extend it by starting work it normally has to be a lawful start so you have to comply with any planning conditions that say "Before work starts...". But it sounds like you know this. I do know of a windfarm that got its planning extended by constructing the site entrance. Normally for houses they want the foundations dug and inspected by BC but I don't think that's what the law says is required. It might be possible to do something else that counts as starting and apply for a certificate of lawful development on the grounds work has started.