Temp

One thing to watch is the roof pitch. Sometimes a thick roof means the pitch has to be too low to get the top end and it's flashing under the first floor windows.

I was shown pictures of reclaimed bricks when considering them for our build. Looked great but when I got samples they were incredibly heavy, cold and waxy. They felt like death, really gave me the shivers. Very very strange.

One option would be to employ a Quantity Surveyor to review the quote. They prefer bring involved throughout the whole project but that could cost another 10% like the Architect. I'd see what they charge just to cost up the plans. Don't show him the quote until he has done that. The more detailed plans you can give them the more accurate his estimate. One option might be to replace the roof with one built using attic trusses but not actually convert the loft. Leave that until later. Might not save much though. Main thing is to get the basic work costed then see if you can afford the loft conversion and extension.

It's obviously quite a lot more than just a renovation. Looks like the roof structure is being replaced, loft converted and an extension involving possibly big opening in rear wall? I wouldn't go for Cork insulation. Look at insulated plasterboard or seperate PIR insulation and plasterboard. If you want ASHP you need much more than 40mm insulation. I would suggest double and triple glazing. ASHP are effective in well insulated airtight houses but can be a disaster if not correctly sized for the house. To lower risk consider mains gas feeding UFH which leaves open the option of ASHP in the future. Perhaps also ditch the living roof?

42mm is massive. Not a hotel is it 🙂 We have some 28mm copper from a thermal store to a manifold between two bathrooms. From there we have 22mm plastic to high flow rate showers. Works well. Everything else is 15mm plastic. Even the pipes to UFH manifolds are only 22mm copper. If you have any very long runs consider a secondary loop. However this needs to go right close to the tap. Even a 6ft branch from the loop to the tap can negate the value of having a loop. Loop must be well insulated.

You need a structural wall each end of the steel beam. Normally the beam sits on padstone in the wall under each end to spread the load sideways and prevent a "cheese wire effect" if the walls are lightweight blocks. Eg In most cases there is nothing visible in the room below the beam. There wouldn't normally need to be a pier under the ends of the beam unless the loads above are particularly high. Even then changing to denser blocks might eliminate the need. The only reason for a buttress like pier would be if one of the supporting walls needs it as per your original post. Then it might serve two purposes.

There are so many combinations.. Some use replacable bulbs like GU10 (normally 240V) or MR16 (normally 12V). Modern fixings mostly have non-replacable bulbs. These either have an integrated controller or a seperate controller. For example this type has an external 36V controller.. https://dtrelectricalsupplies.co.uk/product/jcc-v50-led-downlight-7-5w-dimmable-fire-rated-colour-selectable-white/?gclid=CjwKCAjwiOCgBhAgEiwAjv5whJ74BfNqFOesyrym3cskZ2A0xelSrP3i6PKLdMo46cGkbVG1C5X05xoCR6oQAvD_BwE However you couldn't replace that external controller with a simple 36V transformer because the LED part requires a constant current source. This type has an internal controller so just needs 240v. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Recessed-Dimmable-Downlights-Adjustable-Spotlights/dp/B09F6K7R9X/ref=asc_df_B09F6K7R9X/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=606820137551&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15489159648292921766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-1682828933183&psc=1 If going for that type I would buy a few spares. The issue of dimming is a whole other topic/nightmare. Some LED bulbs cannot be dimmed. Others flicker badly for different reasons, some to do with the bulb and some to do with the dimmer. Sometimes the flicker is only obvious when you have multiple fittings on one dimmer. Worst flicker I've had was from 5 bulbs of the LED "filament" style in a chandelier. Best success Ive had is dimming Osram Parthom GU10 LED bulbs on a trailing edge dimmer. I have an array of 12 x 600lm bulbs In a living room and boy is that bright on max power. No flickering at all when dimmed right down to nothing. For a utility room there are plenty of really good LED battens. Many have non-replaceable bulbs but I've not had one fail yet.

or perhaps a course.. https://www.thegoodlifecentre.co.uk/woodwork-carpentry-workshops-london/

Welcome to the forum. If you get stuck perhaps try this but only open in working hours? https://openworkshopnetwork.com/workshop/the-carpentry-club/

Has your electrician assumed any particular beam angle? eg what spacing are they? If you use narrow beam angle bulbs they may need to be a bit closer together than if you use wide angle bulbs. Narrow angle bulbs spaced too far apart give an uneven spotty effect. My own preference in a kitchen is to use wider angle bulbs (120 degree) to give an even light distribution with fewer shadows (but admittedly more glare). Not sure if they work well in deeply recessed fitting like the Aurora MPRO Trim-Less. In coridors a narrower beam can give a more atmospheric effect. Its a marmite thing. https://www.fullamps.com/how-to-choose-the-right-beam-angle-for-your-led-downlights-a.html https://www.arrowelectricals.co.uk/blog/what-is-the-best-beam-angle-for-downlights/#:~:text=The beam angle of 60,suitable for standard ceiling heights.&text=If you are looking to,angle is a great option.

No. If they are GU10 you can replace the bulb with a different colour temperature later. Just adds a bit to the cost if you don't like the ones supplied with the fitting.

I commented on a youtube video last week and mentioned 2's compliment arithmetic. Next day it pops up in my new feed.

Not sure if this is the latest legislation but pretty sure if connected to the house it would be considered an extension. Part 1 A (Extensions), B & C (Roofs), D (Porches), E (Outbuildings), F (Hard surfaces), G (Chimneys), all require planning permission if your house was converted under class Q. I think a conservatory is considered a Class A extension although they are only mentioned in Condition A3. Part 2 changes you can still do under permitted development unless other restrictions apply. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/made Part Q aside, for permitted development any extension (other than a conservatory) normally needs to use similar materials to the house. I think it's very likely you would need planning permission.

+1 Perhaps run a steel across the other way so your timber joist span is halved.

I think you have the same rights as most other houses. The legislation here.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/made Precludes an extension (Part 1, Class A) if your house was converted under class Q, however I don't see a similar restriction in Part 2 Class A Fences. So I think you can have 2m fences except where adjacent to a highway or footpath where its 1m high.

Thanks folks. I have a triangular dormer and the way it was built and lined makes it hard to find timber behind the plasterboard. Was only able to find 2 nails with a magnet so probably 8 brackets will just be into plasterboard. It's only getting net curtains so no great weight. Think I'll give those a go. The tool isn't very expensive on amazon. Think the brackets are a bit small to hide the hole needed for Grip-its.

I normally avoid fixing into plasterboard but looks like I have no choice when I fit a curtain rail for some net curtains. The rail has to fix to the ceiling plasterboard in a dormer. It's a job I hate as the fitting always seems to start rotating meaning the screw won't go in or come out. So what's your favorite fastening for plasterboard?

Try other things first. Im comfortable working with a multi meter on live equipment but you might not be. It is quite dangerous after all. If there is no obvious mechanical reason why they aren't running I'd check the motor is free to rotate by spinning it by hand. Then check the motor is getting power with a meter. If it is then see how the capacitors (if any) are fitted. Some are soldered internally, some have screw terminals. If you think you can replace them they aren't usually expensive and worth doing before replacing a whole motor. Other things to check with power off.. I dont think any MVHR motors are likely to have carbon brushes but that's something I'd also check. Our system has a fuse in the controller. Some systems have a thermal cut out. I'd hope they used one with an automatic reset but others have a button. The can be all different shapes and sizes but something with two terminals/wires and a button is likely to be a cut out. If its tripped it will be open circuit (infinite resistance between the terminals). Find the reason for overheating, fix it and push the button. Temperature sensors are frequently a type of resistor that varies with temperature called an NTC. So look for a probe in the airflow with two wires. The resistance will probably be 10kOhms at 25c but there are many other standards like 20kOhm or even 100kOkm at 25c. Sometimes the nominal value is marked on them. Check for open and short circuit. Unfortunately I've seen them fail in a way that's not obvious. The resistance was like 9k when it should have been nearer 10k. Again they aren't expensive to replace if you can find the right one.

If you do need a movement joint you might be able to partially hide it behind a rainwater down pipe.

Welcome to the forum.

I think you might need a movement joint. This is from the NHBC.. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/movement-joints-in-masonry-walls-.pdf

If you want to build right up to the boundary remember nothing must overhang, so you need to think about eaves and gutters. The boundary wall is also unlikely to have adequate foundations for an extension so the whole thing might need taking down and rebuilding. In the future a neighbour might also want to do the same and suddenly your house isn't a detached house anymore. That can devalue it a bit. Sometimes it's not worth building right to the boundary as it frequently seems to cause issues.

+1 I think the modern conveyancing forms ask the seller which boundaries he thinks are his responsibility. The answers aren't always correct but what did the previous owner say? Typically hedges belong to one side or the other eg the house that planted it would normally have planted it on their side of the boundary. Be carefully about asking the neighbours because it tells them you don't know and they might take advantage of that.

Lots of interesting things in that video. Like using a bristle roller to apply skim plaster.

Looks like the same motor is used by Baxi, Main, Thorn, Potterton, Myson, Valor etc Unfortunately all seem to be charging near to the same price or more.