Temp

Looks like the cycle is about 45-48 mins, so something like 30m burn 18min off. That looks very good to me. You could experiment with both faster and slower pump speeds to and see what happens. You might also try setting a higher "Flow Temperature Desired". This appears to be acting more like a "Maximum Flow Temperature". You might find the boiler fires up for longer because it takes longer to get to that maximum.

They do one called Sadolin Wet Wood Decking Stain ("Apply to wet or dry wood") but I've not used it. I use Sadolin on our windows. The best combination seems to be Sadolin Classic for the colour then coats of Sadolin Extra Clear on top to give max life.

CML = Council of Mortgage Lenders, so presumably "applicant" would normally be the owner when applying for a mortgage? Perhaps cross them all out an write "self builder" ?

I've found and fixed the problem. Not at all what I thought above and its been wrong for 15+ years ! It was the plumbing equivalent to connecting the neutral wire to the wrong RCD/RCBO. eg the live for a circuit connected to one RCD and the neutral connected to another. We have a thermal store with two DHW outputs. One output has a secondary loop on it feeding remote outlets like the kitchen tap. The plumber had connected the kitchen tap supply to the wrong output on the store. This meant the secondary loop was drawing hot water from one outlet on the store and returning it to the other. On many systems that might not be a problem but there are heat exchanger, pumps and flow sensors involved. Anyway I've just spent the day cutting and soldering 28mm copper pipe to swap the kitchen supply to the correct circuit on the store. My better half is upstairs testing out one of the showers as I write. Haven't heard any screams yet. The secondary loop pump is also a lot quieter as it no longer has to push water the wrong way through a mixer. Surprised it hadn't gone on strike years ago.

+1 Ours is 5m * 1.8m it's got two upright freezers, washer, dryer, boiler and UFH manifold and would be room for a small washbasin or water softener. Did you forget to take the pigs out 🙂

Our DNO insisted the electric meter go on the front of the house. No way we're we doing that. We put it around the side where they can still get to it without someone needing to be home.

Is it these.. Blum TandemBox... https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=120021880175782

https://www.britannica.com/topic/parapet-gable

I've just made a washstand out of water resistant mdf. Used one of the Zinsser primers just as a precaution. Edit: oops I miss read the question.

It's well known that banks dont like to lend on leasehold property that has only a short lease remaining, typically less than 60 years. So when are they going to wake up to the fact that some houses will be underwater by 2080 and stop or reduce lending on them?

I found those ultrasonic things to be a waste of money. The critters come back. I've caught mice in a trap right next to one.

Our system has a thermal store that you can dose with chemicals. The DHW is heated by a heat exchanger. So none of the water that comes out of taps is stored for very long.

https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-65339934

Served or agreed?

If you actually prefer the single storey now.. you could also say... if you don't agree the new PWA on same terms without surveyors fees I will build the two storey.

I would follow the instructions to preserve any warranty. I've read that packers should really be flat so they support both sheets of glass. Otherwise the weight of one sheet is supported by the seal. Any drainage holes and channels should be kept open to stop water collecting innthem and freezing in winter damaging seals.

I'm not far from the River Nene and its been high for most of thus year do far I think. A few fields flooded until recently.

My understanding is that there are both positive feedback (runaway) and negative feedback mechanisims (stability). These have caused and stopped swings within a range that has kept the Earth broadly habitable. The problem appears to be that rapid increases in CO2 can over power the negative feedback mechanisms leading to wider swings. No not because it got hotter. We didn't get runaway then because the sun wasnt quite as bright and CO2 didn't increase rapidly. The feedback mechsnisims were able to keep up and eventually prevent much higher temperatures. I think of it a bit like inflation. We can cope with 17% price rises over 10 years without the economy suffering. But 17% over a year is a much greater problem.

The issue is humid air inside the office (due to breathing, plants, cups of steaming tea etc) finding it's way through gaps in insulation to cold parts of the timber frame where it condenses causing the frame to rot. The standard book ways to avoid this are as you say... vapour barrier on the inside and ventilate the cold side of the insulation. The problem with just drilling ventilation holes is letting rain, bugs and mice in. The holes really need a grill on the outside which might be difficult given proximity to the fence etc. The would also make quite a mess of the appearance. Venting the roof at the ridge might also be problematic. I think I'd probably take a risk and not bother to ventilate the cold side. I might paint everything with a wood preserver and when dry fit a Rockwool like insulation between the timber frame and a rigid PIR on the inside of the frame so sheets are butted together. Tape joints and fit a plastic vapour barrier as well. Do a really good job of the vapour barrier. Hard to quantify the risk though. Beware, foil covered insulation may well block your mobile signal and WiFi. If you want power in the shed get an electrician to do it. Perhaps tell him to fit a small "Garage CU". Surface mount wiring to avoid big holes in your vapour barrier.

If you enter a post code here it takes you to your councils Web page if they have one. I suggest entering a nearby post code not your actual postcode then navigating if they give you a map.. https://www.gov.uk/apply-work-on-protected-tree

Not in a conservation area are you? If you live in a Conservation area you have to act as if all trees (with a trunk over 6"? ) have a TPO on them. TPO can also be applied to all trees in an area rather than individually. Some councils appear to have an online database.. https://www.medway.gov.uk/info/200147/applying_for_planning_permission/128/applications_for_works_to_trees/2

Either way you should not press the membrane against the underside of tile battens as dirt and water can collect above the batten causing it to rot.

No I mean water loss from the screed makes the screed weaker not the slab below the insulation. Water also reduces the insulating properties of the insulation. Our builder even covered the screed with a temporary plastic sheet as soon as it could be walked on to stop water loss into the room by evaporation.

The key to making sealer last is to stop all movement. If the bath moved when it's filled with water and you get in then the seal won't last. It doesn't have to move much. One reason for the suggestions above to fix a batten to the wall. Check the floor under the bath. Chipboard can bend or worse when wet. While the bath is out perhaps put a layer of WBP plywood down to stiffen and or repair it. Also make sure any adjustable metal legs are solid. Sometimes they use nuts which can come loose allowing the bath to move. When you think it's rigid use a pencil to mark the top of the bath on the wall then fill it with water and stand in it. Does the top of the bath still line up with the pencil mark?

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